An historic and picturesque guide from Clifton, through the counties of Monmouth, Glamorgan, and Brecknock, with representations of ruins, interesting antiquities, &c. &c

s

i-

.

Ex Libris
C. K. OGDEN '

THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES

THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES

'

AN

•

HISTORIC

FROM CLIFTON,

THROUGH THE COUNTIES OP

MONMOUTH, GLAMORGAN, AND BRECKNOCK,

OP

RUINS, INTERESTING ANTIQUITIES,

We. We.

G. W. MANBY, Es«.

HOTWELtS, CL1FTONJ

Author of the History of ST. DAVID'S, and FUGITIVE SKETCHES of
CIIFTON ; by whom will Speedily bo Published, the most ROMANTIC
aud PICTURESQUE VIEWS on the RIVER AVON.

O wh» can more delight the tender bran,
Or more expand the wealth of liberal minds,
Than lovely nature's variout face I

BRISTOL:

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1802.

?*•

INSCRIBED TO

THE RIGHT HONORABLE

The Marchioness Townshend.

A Public acknowledgment of
the very great obligations conferred
upon my Youth, and afterwards so
generously extended to others most
dear tome, by YOURSELF and ILLUS-
TRIOUS CONSORT, is the only oppor-
tunity of evincing its sensibility, which
presents itself to a heart too humbje
to hope that it can ever, by any sub-
stantial benefit, discharge the debt of
gratitude which it has thus incurred.

Already apprehensive that vanity
may be imputed to me, for having pre-
sumed thus to avow the honor of your
early patronage, I shall not further
sanction the justice of such censure ;
but decline any other reference to
your numerous kindnesses, than to
assure you that a lively recollection
of them has, with unfeigned sincerity,
for ever confirmed me

Your Ladyship's

Most Devoted,
and Faithful Humble Servant,
G. W. MAN BY.

CHITON, Nov. 4, 1802.

INTRODUCTION.

O history, thou parent of renown ;
Thou best instructor of mankind !

JL O visit a country celebrated for eventful history, had long
been an object of my wishes : on the Continent, hostilities
denied its accomplishment ; in my own nation I, therefore,
sought for a circumscribed district, which should at once
present itself, to captivate the attention by the beauty and
variety of its natural attractions, and interest the more deeply
reflecting mind by the importance of its political vicissitudes.
The SILURES (part of South Wales), to say nothing of its
high-praised scenery (but which would never disappoint the
most glowing anticipations of fancy), seemed to me to promise
the largest rewards to the labours of my historical research,
not only on account of the arduous and memorable struggle
made by that brave people against the Roman and other in-
vaders, until it became a territorial member of the English
dominion, but also for its castleated ruins, once proud monu-
ments of fame, but now, alas ! mouldering tombs of scarce-
remembered grandeur.

11

Of the customs and peculiarities of the original inhabitants,
it is exceedingly difficult to obtain such information as would
be likely to gratify the fastidious delicacy of a sincere lover of
pure historic fact. Authors are various in their opinions, and
the most learned acknowledge their insufficiency to say any
thing with certainty, from the mixture of fable and impro-
bability that has been recorded by the earliest writers.

Similar to other countries, at that remote period, they
are supposed to have formed themselves into separate bodies,
each governed by a chief, who considered himself as indepen-
dent of other states ; and no doubt, though they had frequent
disagreements and battles among themselves, still, under any
danger which threatened a number of the principalities toge-
ther, (as the invasion of a foreign foe,) they were prudent
enough to unite themselves, and to be directed by one com-
mander, for the advantage of all the tribes; but, even then,
their ferocious disposition and impatience of controul would
sometimes prevent that cordiality so necessary to preservation,
and lay them open to difficulties and disasters. From their
mode of living in the plainest manner, and not subjecting
themselves to unnecessary luxuries, either in clothing or
habitation, they were strong, active, hardy, and healthy : of
their courage and impetuosity the invaders bear witness ; it
was not their first appearance or attack which subdued them,
although inured to war and having the advantage of superior
qualifications j nor, when a footing had been gained by them,
had they any security or rest for a long series of years. From

Ill

this cause, the Romans were under the necessity of keeping
up an extensive chain of communications with every one
of their settlements ; and, in all probability, had the Britons
been in firm unanimity, they might have preserved themselves
and their country from subjugation.

Who were the princes and governors of Britain, the distant
period leaves us much in the dark. There is a manuscript in
the possession of Mr. Hopkins, of Coychurch, Glamorgan-
shire, which states, that the first monarch of the island was
Prydain, son of Aeth the great, at that time king of the nine
Cantreds, or hundreds, of Syllwg, Siluria, or Gwent, but
declined universal monarchy, for, that " Council is not to be
found in emolument;" so that, as before stated, his son
Prydain was placed in the high station : from him, by descent
in a long line of sixteen successors, Bran inherited the throne,
who was father to the renowned Caractacus : previous to
him, we scarcely find any thing to interest us in the affairs of
the kingdom j but the variety of fortune, the uprightness of
his actions, the valour and perseverance of the man, add a
dignity to the hero, and compel us, while we applaud hi3
spirit, to lament his humiliation.

The detestation in which the Britons held their Invaders,
was continually manifested by their repeatedly harassing them
whenever opportunity offered; and though the Romans, by
dint of scientific warfare, generally were victorious, still
the sentiment of revenge was strongly planted in the British

IV

breast, and, undaunted by former defeats, would still engage.
This people, headed by Caractacus, a revered Prince, whose
reputation and courage were his greatest boast, gave a hope that
their efforts would not be unsuccessful ; the Romans were now
guided by Ostorius (who succeeded Plautius), and came from
the northern parts of the kingdom, which, by battles and bri-
bery, he had in a great measure subdued; thus was he ad-
vanced to head an army to be opposed to Caractacus, who, by
several movements, had placed his adherents under every pos-
sible advantage, and taken his station in the country of the
Ordovices (North Wales), as being more suitable for defence,
as the grounds were less accessible to an enemy so politic and
superior in numbers ; here Caractacus waited the issue of
a contest which was to decide the fate of his countrymen j
nothing in his power was omitted, that could animate their
souls with an ardor for glory, and the memory of the achieve-
ments of their ancestors was held up to inspire them with the
like fervour : the spirit and situation of the Britons were not
unnoticed by the penetrating eye of Ostorius, who, to the
usual forms of encouraging his legion, set forth the still
greater merit of encountering greater difficulties ; indeed they
appeared in the circumstances before them, and might be
thought insuperable. As the Roman soldiers were impa-
tient for the attack, Ostorius had no difficulty in leading
them to the battle, which was long and obstinately contested $
but alas, the discipline and fury of Roman warriors, shielded by
coats of mail, proved too powerful for the brave Britons, who,
were defeated, and the victory was the more complete by the

ultimate capture of the wife and daughters of Caractacus, and
the surrender of his brothers. The unfortunate Prince, in his
despair, fled, for protection and relief, to Cartismandua, the
queen of the Brigantines, who, unmindful of generosity, ho-
nor, or compassion, infamously delivered him into the hands
of his enemy ; thus was a dignified hero, by the issue of this
battle, reduced from power, freedom, and prosperity, to be-
come a public spectacle in the triumphal procession of the
conqueror to Rome.

Though in this manner degraded, he preserved his magna-
nimity, and without a look of despondency, or soliciting com-
passion from the surrounding throng, he manfully and ener-
getically addressed himself to Claudius, seated on his throne : —

" If my moderation in prosperity had been answerable to the greatness
" of my birth and estate, or the success of my late attempts, to the
" resolution of my mind, I might have come to this city rather as a friend
" to be entertained, than as a captive to be gazed upon ; neither wouldest
" thou disdain to have received me on terms of amity and peace, being a
" man of royal descent, and a commander of many warlike nations ; but,
" what cloud soever hath darkened my present lot, yet have the Heavens
" and nature given me that in birth and mind, which none can vanquish
" or deprive me of. I well see, that you make other men's miseries the
" subject and matter of your triumphs, and, in this my calamity, as in a
" mirror, you now contemplate your own glory ; yet know, that I am,
" and was, a prince, furnished with strength of men and habiliments of
" war; and what marvel is it if all be lost, seeing experience teacheth that
" the events of war are variable, and the success of policies guided by

VI

" uncertain fates ; as it is with me, who thought that the deep waters,
" like a wall, enclosing our land, and it, so situated by heavenly Provi-
" dence, as in another world, might have been a sufficient privilege and
" defence for us against foreign invasions : but now I perceive, that the
" desire of sovereignty admits no limitation ; and if you Romans must
" command all, then all must obey, for mine own part, while I was able,
" I made resistance, and unwilling I was to submit my neck to a servile
" yoke. So far the law of nature alloweth every man that he may defend
" himself, being assailed, and to withstand force by force. Had I at first
" yielded, thy glory, and my rain, had not been so renown'd. Fortune
" hath now done her worst ; we have nothing left us but our lives, which
" if thou take from us, our miseries end ; and if thou spare us, we are but
" the objects of thy clemency."

Such a speech, from such a man, effected his and his family's
release from their chains, and their consequent respectful
obedience to the Emperor and Empress.

Thus terminated the career of a man who had fully employed
the Romans for nine years ; but the Silures could not be kept
peaceable, either by good or ill treatment : and this defeat
served no otherwise than to stimulate them to greater acts of
valour, by which they gained several victories over their op-
pressors; in short, the trouble and anxiety which Ostorius was
continually labouring under at the determined and obstinate
disposition of the Britons, was the occasion of his death. The
command devolved on Didius, who kept them in more subjec-
tion, but no remarkable action is recorded of him, and had he
not been assisted by others, in all likelihood, Hie inveteracy of
the Britons would have been too powerful for him. After Didius.,

Vll

Verantius became commander, who dying within a year, Sueto-
nius Paulinas had the government ; and as success encreases
ardor, he determined on the gaining of the island of Mona
(Anglesey), which was still rebellious ; but his absence occa-
sioned a fresh rupture that had nearly been fatal to the Romans.
Trebellius Maximus was the next, and succeeded by the more
gentle method of pardoning their errors ; but, while this scheme
was going on, a mutiny arose in his own army, and he was
ever after necessitated to act with caution. Vectius Bolanus,
his successor, was also in the like uneasy situation, from a
want of unity among his men,- over whom he had scarcely the
shew of authority. Petilius Cerialis was more regarded, and
by being successful in several sharp conflicts, acquired confi-
dence. To him succeeded Julius Frontinus, who overcame
all obstacles, carried victory with him, and subdued the long-
resisting Silures. His successor was the renowned and war-
like Agricola, who, finding the Ordovices had obtained some
signal advantage over the Roman horse, put himself at the
head of his troops, and nearly destroyed the whole nation ;
he completed the conquest of Mona, by dint of extraordinary
ability and courage ; he made no pretence for fame by these
actions, and rather desired to. conciliate the good faith of his
enemies by lenient measures, than force it by the terror of the
sword.

Hitherto we have beheld the fortune of war with a dejected
eye, as having seen the Britons frustrated in their endeavours
to counteract the progress of Roman arms; but, setting

Viii

aside their abrupt entrance into the kingdom, which was cer-
tainly in an hostile and marauding manner, yet, when viewed
in a judicious and moral light, is softened by the numerous
advantages that attended the Roman conquest, by a gradual
amelioration of the native ferocity of the Britons. The
Romans, after their care to improve and strengthen their
acquisitions, and securing their several positions by a commu-
nication from one post to another, were not idle in the em-
bellishment of their stations. Industry was continually
exerted whilst they had any quiet from their harassing
neighbours ; and every means were employed to win the
confidence of the natives, by the introduction of sciences
and useful arts.

Agricola is mentioned, if not the first, yet the chiefest
promoter of improvement : under his auspices was introduced
a complete alteration in the manner of government ; his offi-
cers were chosen from among those of a peaceable and gene-
rous disposition : by such means the abuses which had been
prevalent, were reformed, and he gained more adherents to his
cause, than would have been acquired by contrary measures.

Establishments were founded to improve the British youths,
and care was taken to instil a principle of civilization, with the
view to wear off the ill impressions formed of Roman manners
and operations. Superior as they were in warfare, they were
superior in genius and labor. By their judicious plans some
permanent principle of refinement was imbibed by the hitherto

IX

untamed, unpolished Britons ; and when once the Roman
ambition was gratified by the subjugation of the country, they
strove immediately to eternize their fame by the formation of
cities, and erecting magnificent and useful structures. It may
naturally be supposed, that in aid of the power to beautify their
several stations, large contributions were exacted ; but Britons
were freely to enjoy the conveniences accruing, and also the
emoluments of several offices of state : under these circum-
stances, they were initiated into their peculiarities and
customs, and in time found the value of the benefits arising
from the connection.

The liberal arts and sciences were not the only matters of
improvement, as they equally excelled in cultivation, and
introduced many serviceable articles, particularly red wheat,
now so valuable and prolific a grain ; therefore, though the
Romans appear in the light of invaders, plunderers, &c. it
must be acknowledged, we are at this time, improved by
their conquest over our ancestors.

The quietude which the Britons latterly enjoyed under the
Romans who had initiated them into their mild and
luxurious manner of living, was severely felt on their de-
parture, insomuch that they became in a manner en-
feebled, and unable to meet an enemy who now threatened
them with formidable devastation. The impending storrn,
was for a time, prevented by a compromise for money,
but this mode of ensuring safety defeated the intent of a

lasting quietness, and it was not long ere war was again v
their situation.

The Britons now saw the necessity there was of resolutely
defending themselves, and engaged their foes; but, unfor-
tunately for them, their success was not proportionate to their
exertions j and in one contest they lost fourteen thousand of
the army. Dispirited, distressed, and in a manner abandoning
themselves from energy, they sought, from those whom they
once despised and troubled, that relief they were of them-
selves unable to procure j but the Romans, fully occupied
with distractions at home, denied their request of assistance,
and left them to study their preservation, and' extricate them-
selves from their difficulties by their own perseverance and
valor.

Thus deserted, they despaired of effectually preventing the
progress of the invading Picts, and became separated among
themselves ; some taking to the wilds and woods, and dege-
nerating into their ancient barbarism ; others, more revengeful,
would harass and perplex their enemies, being inadequate
to oppose them in an open engagement.

These contrary methods, and supineness, made them
neglect the cultivation so necessary to their existence j and
the consequent scarcity brought them to some reason, and
returning industry.

XI

This circumstance, however, procured the mortified
Britons that repose which their efforts failed to produce j
for the Picts, not understanding much of husbandry, found it
necessary to retreat from the parts where they had established
themselves, and left the Britons again in possession, whose
diligence was crowned with a plentiful supply, as a reward
for their labors.

Whatever sentiments of religion or Christianity had been
cherished by them, it is recorded, that in this also they became
inharmonious, and were divided. The clergy, to avoid a total
neglect of the solemnities, which, if properly adhered to, would
have more firmly united the man and the passions, applied for
assistance to Gaul, from whence two bishops came, who, by
perseverance and convincing arguments, restored order, and
converted their prejudices.

At this time, the Saxons, who had joined the Picts, invaded
the northern part of Cambria ; and it is said, that St. Germain,
one of the bishops, (who was assembling the Britons
for an approaching baptism,) appeared no wise alarmed at
the threatening danger, but steadily remained in the station
he had chosen, which was at a place called Maes Garmon,
in Flintshire : having expressly enjoined the Britons, that at
the moment of the attack they should three times cry
out " Hallelujah," it was accordingly performed with such
enthusiasm, that the Saxons and Picts were, from this
unexpected shout, and its distinct reverberation by the

Xll

surrounding mountains, so appalled with apprehensions that
they were easily defeated, and terms of amity concluded.

To this time (anno 448), the Britons had several kings,
and by murder Vortigern had risen to the throne. The
course of his reign was so stained by perfidy and villany, that it
would be painful to follow up the events in particular. To him
may be ascribed the succeeding dismemberment of the king-
dom, and all the disasters, cruelties, &c. during the Saxon
settlement, who, in defiance of reason, policy, or safety,
were expressly invited into the kingdom, under a cowardly
pretext, by which they profited to their own advantage, and
became in time the lords and governors of this country.

Considering the universal detestation in which Vortigern
was held by the Britons, it is rather extraordinary he was
suffered to reign so long} but the miseries that were borne
by the unfortunate Britons from the ravages, massacres,
and general barbarity of the Saxons, at length turned their
attention to Ambrosius, a brother of their former chief, who
went to Armorica, to avoid the tyranny of Vortigern. This
prince, assisted by his brother, Uther Pendragon, came to the
relief of the distressed Britons, who in great numbers readily
joined him, and in a sharp conflict forced Vortigern to retreat
to his castle in Carnarvonshire, where he did not find the
safety he sought, as it was assailed and set on fire, by which
himself and his women were consumed. Thus perished a
man advanced in life, and after a reign of thirty-three

xm

years replete with variety of fortune to himself and woe to
the kingdom.

It was a fatal want of caution in the Britons (and should
serve as a perpetual lesson, of the ill consequences) of in-
viting foreigners to assist them in defending the country from
the Picts, and also countenancing the criminality of Vortigern's
being separated from his wife to be united to Rowena, the
daughter of the Saxon prince, who, perceiving the advantages
of this country over his own, artfully procured sufficient
bodies of his countrymen to be brought over, which esta-
blished him for a length of time. It is true they were at one
time driven back by Vortimer, a son of Vortigern, (at a
time when Vortigern was deposed and imprisoned), but this
was but temporary, as Vortimer was afterwards murdered
by the contrivance of Rowena and connivance of his father,
whom the infatuated Britons, blind to their interest, rein-
stated on the throne.

The Saxons- soon after found means, by treachery, to
slaughter upwards of three hundred persons of the first
nobility and talents, at a meeting on Salisbury Plain, convened
under social and harmonious pretences. Vortigern was the
only one preserved, and from thence was never more in favor
with the Britons, as he was, from his known partiality to the
Saxons, strongly suspected of being concerned in the diabolical
business j and perhaps that circumstance was the fundamental
cause of his destruction. It may be necessary to observe the

XIV

remarkable pile now known as STONEHENGE, was erected to
perpetuate that abominable deed.

Ambrosius, who succeeded, gained important advantages
over the Saxons, and after recovering a considerable part of
the country, ended his days by poison : Uther Pendragon
then ascended the throne, and after seventeen years of
successful enterprises against the common enemy, was also
poisoned : his son, the renowned Arthur, now became
the British monarch, who, without the addition of fable and
romance, and considering him as a monarch and a man,
was certainly a great character, and singularly successful
in most of his enterprises ; but there was undoubtedly
impropriety in his conduct, by going on foreign expe-
ditions when the security of his own country required his
presence. In his absence, the Saxons who had joined the
Picts, continually troubled the Britons, and on his return,
made him sensible he had neglected that duty he owed to his
subjects.

f

After a reign of twenty-five years, he was killed at the
battle of Camlan, fighting against the united armies of
Saxons, Picts, .and the Regent, whom he had left to govern
the kingdom, but who, in his absence, not only usurped the
throne but married his wife. ^

From hence the various princes and circumstances through
a period of two hundred and seventy-seven years, would be

uninteresting to describe, but in 8 19 the Saxon heptarchy
was united in one power under Egbert, who denominated his
government England.

The Britons who remained staunch to their principles
and manners, still maintained an inveterate hatred to the
Saxons, retired to the mountains, and settled themselves
in that part of the kingdom now known by the name of
Wales; governed by princes of their own, but considered
themselves as under one king, who stationed himself in
North Wales.

They did not, however, remain quiet, but were continually
making inroads on the English territories ; and joined another
troublesome enemy of the English (the Danes), which so ex-
asperated the Saxon monarch as to exact from him severe
retaliation ; and those Welshmen who were found to have
passed the boundaries, were ordered immediately to be put to
death. The unity of the Welsh and Danes did not continue
long, for in 873 the Danes became an enemy, over-ran the
southern part, and destroyed the churches and religious
houses.

But the independence of Wales received a lasting blow
from Roderic (surnamed the Great) consenting to become
tributary to the English. Although this king had established
several wise institutions, and became honored with an unusual
dignity, this last measure cannot be palliated ; as it was a tacit

acknowledgment of that slavery, against which they had
•with so much bravery repeatedly contended.

Roderic dividing Wales into three principalities, bequeathed
them to his three sons. And South Wales became the
portion of his second son Cadelh. (Among his successors
several strenuously exerted themselves to preserve their
independence ; and, whenever under the necessity of ap-
pealing to^arms, behaved 'with that prowess as must ever
merit esteem, however unfortunate the termination). The
succeeding princes of South Wales were,

907 1 HowelDha.

948 2 Owen ap Howel Dha.

p8/ 3 Meredith ap Owen.

998 4 Llewelyn ap Sitsyllt.

1021 5 Ryth ap Jestyn, an usurper.

1031 6 Howel and Mredith.

1042 7 Rytherch and Rys.

I06l 8 Mredith ap Owen ap Edwin.

1073 9 Rys ap Owen and Rytherch ap Carado.

1077 1O Rys ap Tewdwr Mawr.

1115 11 Griffith apRys.

1 137 12 Rys ap Griffith, called the Lord Rys.

1196 13 Griffith ap Rys.

1202 14 Rys ap Griffith.

1222 15 Owen ap Griffith.

1235 Itf Mredith ap Owen.

XV11

The last-named prince died in ] 267 ; and daring the ten
succeeding years continual endeavours, in various ways,
were exerted to maintain their country from subjugation :
battles and submissions were frequent,, and contributions
permitted. But in 12/7 the final submission of South Wales
to Edward I. took place, and since that time it has been
annexed, with all Wales, to the British crown.

It is greatly to be lamented, that time and neglect
have suffered so many superb monuments of Roman labor
in this country to become mingled with the dust ; or what a
display of magnificence and simplicity, beauty and propriety,
might now remain the testimonials of genius, perseverance,
and worth. To them, under Agricola, are to be attributed
the structures, &c. &c. which Caerwent, Caerleon, &c.
abound with the ruins of.

Notwithstanding those places have so frequently been vi-
sited for the purpose of procuring some of the numerous relics
buried in the dust, I could not resist an impulse to make one
more of the number, nor without an hope my efforts would be
successful. This was the original object of my tour ; and I
am much gratified with the result, by the interesting part taken
by many to promote my researches, and the gift of several
pieces of antiquity that were presented me, which, with the
numerous coins, will be enumerated under their several
heads in the ensuing pages. I am well persuaded, should
any real antiquary, with the approbation of the possessors, be

d

XV111

at the pains -of a diligent search, they would be rewarded, by
producing to the world many curious and valuable articles that
deserve a better fate than cankering in oblivion. To such only
will those places be any ways interesting ; for, to the cursory
observer little else can be seen but ruins of walls, moulder-
ing banks, overgrown with bushes, brambles, &c. where once
shone cities resplendent with magnificence and population.

As early ages have borne testimony so highly creditable to

.
the Silures, so, in all probability, will future time shew the

vast importance this district will be of in a national view, from
its abundance of coal, and rich stores of mineral, so pro-
ductive, that there is no likelihood of their being exhausted.
The improvements carrying on for the convenience of the
country at large, and the numerous extensive establishments,
are astonishing, and highly worth a tourist's trouble to visit
them, if only to view the enterprising spirit existing among
the opulent, and their extraordinary contrivances to obviate
difficulties and extend their schemes ; producing at once
employment for several thousands of hands, and wealth to
the kingdom in general.

To accommodate persons who are inclined to amuse
themselves with so short and pleasant a journey, was the
reason of my connecting these observations, and giving a
resemblance of objects I thought worthy of notice. With this
view it is offered to the public, and particularly to the visitants
of Clifton and the Hotwells, as change of air and variety

XIX

of pleasing objects, divert the mind, and have a great
tendency to restore the invalid ; and those who are in
the enjoyment of health may both please the eye and ani-
mate the feelings, yielding moral reflections inspired by wit-
nessing beauty, grandeur, and sublimity of scenes, the joint
efforts of nature and art; for this purpose I have united a
concise directory to several interesting objects, and watchfully
collected every scattered fragment of history, desirous of
making it entertaining to the reader, and useful to the travel-
ler, though conscious of my inability to decorate the page
of history with the attire of graceful language, of places
which have been so numerously ' and variously described by
every power of fascinating and picturesque embellishments.
This disadvantage was severely felt when measuring those
steps which have been so accurately trodden and surveyed
by Messrs. Coxe, Williams, and Warner, who were not
only able to throw every light and lustre, by their abilities
and eloquence, but employed that very language which
alone could convey the true description ajid characters of
places and countries, not only in their present state, but in
their progressive fame or decay.

In this small tract is pointed out a route which will embrace
a number of venerable piles, include scenery in beautiful
forms and complexion, and direct to manufactories truly worth
attending ; a circuit by no means expensive, nor wanting
of those necessaries which render travelling convenient: the
whole may be performed in a few days, or protracted at

XX

pleasure; the roads are excellent;- the accommodations plen-
tiful, and where they are not altogether good, are compensated
by civility and attention.

I am aware of the number of directories extant, offering
their assistance ; but for such purposes, perhaps, they are
not altogether applicable, being too voluminous, by com-
bining a complete tour through the principality; but without
any view to lessen them in the estimation of the public, (for
they are certainly valuable in their kind), I flatter myself
the following pages will fully answer every end that can be
desired in so compact a route, and prove an useful pocket
companion during an excursion which, I am induced to hope,
will reward the tourist with pleasure, health, and delight;
and actuate the reader to the exercise of candour, and
where errors meet the eye they may not encounter the
displeasure.

,

'

A TOUR, &c.

" To clear the course, and make the passage free,
"'For travellers all."

VV HEN the mind, for a considerable time,
anticipates enjoyment from an undertaking, it
is- difficult to control our eagerness to commence,
or suppress our impatience when obstructions
are likely to oppose the execution.

Having formed a tour through some part of
South Wales, and desirous of inspecting several
matters of curiosity and singularity, (of which I
had frequently heard), made me impatient to
commence the journey, as no moment of

B

revolving year could be considered .so interesting,
as the approach of harvest ; when

" Fair plenty now begins her golden reign ;

" The yellow fields now wave with ripen'd grain ;

" Joyons, the swains renew their sultry toils,

" And bear in triumph home the harvest's spoils :"

exhibiting rustic happiness, among the busy
groups in nature's landscape.

Although the day fixed for my departure was
ushered in dark, rainy, and uncomfortable, it did
not prevent my setting out, though obscured much
beauty of the surrounding country, yet the
pleasing villages of Westbury and Henbury were
peculiarly attractive, as was Blaize Castle, seated
on a lofty tumulus, thickly clothed with wood.
The tongue being the organ of infprmation, was
employed in enquiring, from almost every tra-
veller, the distance to the Ne'w Passage ; and as
they might perceive my anxiety to reach it,
so they were willing to increase it by the usual
ungenerous practice of giving misinformation to
strangers.

On reaching the eminence of Black Horse Hill,
the weather prevented a rich, beautiful, and exten-
sive scene, combining land and water, from pre-
senting itself. From Durdham Down to the
Marsh Common, the road is bounded on each
side with good hedges and lofty trees, but from
thence, nearly to the Passage, all was open and
uncheering ; cattle were numerous, so were geese :
the former bore testimony to the richness of the
pasturage, and of the latter it is remarked, that
those which are taken from hence have a fishy
taste, probably from their feeding on shrimps,
which frequently come up the drains cut from the
marsh to the Severn.

On reaching the Passage, the weather
became more kind ; and as I was disappointed in
crossing, from not knowing the specific times
of the great boat's departure (which also takes
carriages and horses), an opportunity offered of
viewing a variety of different objects, from the-
partial gleam of sunshine that would sometimes
burst from broken clouds : it being high-water,
and a spring tide^ a considerable degree of mag-

nificence was added to the broad face of the
Severn; and whenever the sun remained clear;,
the Cambrian hills were beautifully displayed, and
the cultivated country exhibited the luxuriant
scene of an abundant harvest, bending wjth the
bounteous gifts of Providence, waiting the hand
of man, to make him sensible of it's goodness,
and his heart grateful. It was only on those
spots gilded by the sun's bright rays, that the
country could be particularly seen, as all the rest
was deeply enveloped in mist.

The views from thence are extremely pictu-
resque ; one presenting the entrance to the Wye,
Piercefield woods, and a long range of ornamented
hills and mountains; another, the entrance of the
Bristol river Avon, woods of Portishead, and a
vast sweep of Somersetshire ; up the river, the
forest of Dean, the Old Passage houses, Aust
Clift, and a great tract of Glocestershire ; and I
was informed that down the channel, in fine wea-
ther, with the assistance of a glass, the places of
Newport and Cardiff, as well as the Holmes
islands, might be distinctly seen.

While thus delighted with the surrounding
scenery, gazing on the Severn, and rambling
over pebbles polished by the action of its waves,
it recalled to my remembrance 'twas the cele-
brated SABRINA, of whom the fabulated story
is thus penned by the immortal MILTON :

" There is a gentle nymph not far from hence,

" That with moist curb sways the smooth Severne stream.

" SABRINA is her name, a virgin pure;

" Whilome she was the daughter of Locrine,

" That had the sceptre from his father Brute.

" She, guiltless damsel, flying the mad pursuit

" Of her enraged step-dame Guendden,

" Commended her fair innocence to the flood,

" That stayed her flight with his cross-flowing course.

" The water nymphs that in the bottom play'd,

" Held up their pearly wrists, and took her in,

" Bearing her strait to aged Nereus' hall ;

" Who, piteous of her woes, rear'd her lank head,

" And gave her to his daughters to imbathe x

" In nectar'd lavers strow'd with asphodil,

" And, through the porch and inlet of each sense,

" Dropt in ambrosial oils till she reviv'd,

" And underwent a quick immortal change,

" Made goddess of the river."

To avoid delay in pursuing a journey which
might require dispatch, and having suffered that

inconvenience from want of information, it may
not be deemed improper to give some instruc-
tions respecting the passage.

The course of the river stretches nearly east
and west; consequently, those winds are to be
preferred ; the former, while the tide is on the
flood, and the latter during its ebb ; which, if
the elements will permit, is nearly on the slack of
its flux and reflux, when the great boat usually
passes ; but should the wind be from the northern
or southern points, it will require the traveller to
be at the Passage an hour at least before the
above-appointed time. The state of the tides
may always be known by enquiry at Bristol, at
which place it is nearly half an hour later. The
rates of passage by the great boat are,

s. d.

\

Four-wheeled Carriage ------ 120

Two-wheeled -_-------oo

A Man and Horse ------- 10

> A Horse alone ---------i o

A Foot Passenger --------- o

Small boats, capable of carrying a private party, are always ready, at the
rate of 5*. exclusive of gd. for each person.

As the sun had now sufficient power to make
the mist obedient to its rays, leaving only a few
suspended clouds midway down the mountains'
sides, it unfolded to my view such a richness, that
made me impatient to set foot on a country which
was painted in colours beyond the magic powers
of a Claude to imitate; — procuring a small boat,
crossed the Passage, which, at high water, is
about three miles; and from the rapidity of its
current, the numerous sand banks and rocks,
was convinced how necessary it is to be under
the guidance of a careful person ; and, in justice
to those employed, it is right to observe, that
they are in every respect perfectly qualified for
the business.

The black face of Charston rock formed a
conspicuous feature in this sheet of water : but
as it is liable to be overflowed by high tides,
from the summit having been employed in the
construction of Newport bridge, it is found
necessary to have a small obelisk on it, to point
its situation. Some authors have presumed
that this was the first landing-place of the

8

Romans in this part of the country, perhaps
on the authority of a few coins having been
found on it, and being the only place now sur-
rounded by water; but this mistake has probably
arisen from a place much to the westward of
it, that was formerly insulated, though now
united by earthy ties of sand and pebbles
thrown up by the violence of the waters. The
Monmouth shore is rocky, steep, and grotesque,
and the red cliffs near the landing-place, capped
with foliated vegetation, form an unusual and
pleasing variety.

On reaching the summit of the hill, the inn
presents itself; where, having given directions
relative to my horse, which was to come over
in the large boat, directed my course to Ma-
therne, for the purpose of visiting the shrine of
king Theodorick, who gloriously fell in the
struggle for his country's liberty, on the invasion
of the Saxons : of him it is recorded, that he
inarched an army in person and defeated them ;
but being mortally wounded in the engagement,
was returning to die among his friends, and

9

desired his son to build a church wherever he
breathed his last ; which has been done, and
where the following epitaph to his memory has
been placed by bishop Godwin, decorated by
painted ornaments and military emblems :

" Here lyeth intombed the body of
Theodorick, King of Morganuch or

, Glamorgan, commonly called
St. Thewdrick, and accounted a Martyr
because he was slain in a battle
against the Saxons, being then Pagans and in

' defence of the Christian Religeon, The
Battle was fought at Tintern, where
he obtained a great victory, he died here
being in his way homeward, three
Days after the battle, having taken
Order with Maurice his Son who suc-
ceeded him in the Kingdom, that in the
same place, he should happen to decease a
Church should be built, and his body buri-
ed in the same, which was accordingly performed.
, in the Year 600"

Among the remains of mortality in this church
are the heart and bowels of Miles Salley, a
bishop of Landaff, deposited, according to the
direction of his will, near, the tomb of king

10

Thcodorick ; and his body before the image of
St. Andrew, in St. Mark's church, Bristol, anno
15 16, when he bequeathed his mitre to Landaff;
and, during his life, added considerably to the
palace at Matherne.

Anthony Kitchen, otherwise Dunstan, was
interred here in 1566, aged 90. This person is
recorded for impoverishing the see of Landaff,
of which he was bishop, that his successors con-
sidered it as nearly ruined by him. This man
was originally a Benedictine monk of Westmin-
ster, afterwards abbot of Eynsham, near Oxford;
which by officiously surrendering to Henry VIII.
he obtained a pension of 1331. 6s. Sd. per annum,
with the office of king's chaplain, and a restoration
of some temporalities to the bishopric, when he
was elected to the see.

Having satisfied myself with viewing the church
and it's contents, I enquired for the bishop's pa-
lace, when my guide immediately pointed to a
building resembling a barn ; angry at the
supposed slander, I desired him not to be witty

11

at my expence, nor attempt his " tricks on
travellers/' but his solemn declaration prompted
me to believe what I wish I could refute. I asked
myself, ' Could ever this be the residence of epis-
copal dignity?' I could make no reply, and not
daring to cast my eyes on it again, knowing it
had been unjustly injured in my mind, took
my leave, silent and thoughtful, conscious of
wrongly estimating value from external appear-
ance. That it has been the residence of the
bishops of the diocese no one can dispute the
numerous authorities ; and the following letter,
which was written there, evinces that hospitality
was as characteristic a virtue of the country iji
those days, as it is in the present exercised with
such unbounded share.

" To the most reverend Father in God, the right honourable and
" my singular good Lord, my Lord of Canterburye's Grace,
" thes be dd &c.

" My bownden dewtye to your Grace most

" humbly premysed, havyng receaved your honorable L.res dated at
" Lambeth the 18th daye of November last past, requyryng me to certyfye
" your Grace the Names and Surnames of all and singuler Deanes, Arch-
" deacons, Chauncelers, Chaunters, and others having any Dignitye in
" my Cathedrall Church of Landaff, with all the Prebendaryes of the

12

" same, and also of all and singular Parsons and Vicares within my
" Dioces and howe many of them be resydent, and where the absents do
" dwell and remayne, and howe many of them, as well of my sayd
«' Cathedrall Church as of others benefyced, be neither Frists nor Deacons,
" notyng also the Names of all such as be lerned and able to preche,
" and finally howe many of them do kepe hospitalytye, as by the same
" your Graces L'res more playnly doth and niaye appere, I have send unto
" your Grace herein enclosed a just and trewe certyfycate of all the pre-
" mysed, according to my Dewtye, and your Graces expectations, beyng
" readye at all times to accomplysh your Graces Commandement to the
" uttermost of my Power, as knoweth the lyving Lord, who have your good
" Grace in his blessed tuition.

" From my Manor of Matherne, the 20 Day of January, 1560.
" Your Graces to command

" ANTHONY LANDAFFE".

Leaving Matherne, I returned to the Passage
inn by the boundary of St. Pie'rre's park, lament-
ing much less the exclusion from a sight of the
pictures, antiquities, and beauties of the place,
than being prevented an opportunity of knowing
something of a man whose name is seldom men-
tioned but to be praised. Following a pleasing
winding footpath, a short mile westward of the
inn, on the brink of the cliff, reached trinity
Chapel, Sudbrook, and, as not unfrequently with
deserted piles, gracefully mantled and encircled
with ivy. Persons are now living who remem-

13

ber the chapel being used for divine service;

but for what reason the edifice was suffered to
go to decay, is not strictly known; its relics
shew it to have been of early date, (at least
70O years) ; but by whom, or how appropri-
ated, whether as a priory, or otherwise, no
traces are left, at least that I could learn, —
its retired situation, overshadowed by trees,
produced peaceful meditation ; nor could I avoid
feeling an interest for its future fate, from the
encroachments of the Severn, which seems to

14

have " marked it for its own," having scarcely-
left sufficient support for its mouldering foun-
dation. Its ruins are really picturesque, and its
little belfry, raising its head from a mass of
ivy, truly pleasing. It was in vain to attempt
decyphering the characters on the remnants of
tombs, as they were so incrusted with vege-
tation, and those deep grooves, which once
constituted letters, were now inhabited by loftier
grasses and mosses ; having bestowed consider-
able pains and perseverance on one appearing
of modern date, with difficulty made it out to be
to the memory of Blethen Smith, who died 17th
October, 1757, aged <5o ; of this person is related
the following story : — " While on his death-bed
he entreated that he might be consigned to the
Severn, at a place called the Shoots ; his friends
earnestly requested him not to continue in such a
wish, as it would be too painful a task on their
feelings to execute : — he then revoked it, and
desired to be interr'd in this chapel, adding, as it
will eventually find a watery grave, from the river
so hastily encroaching and sapping its foundation,
his desire would be gratified." The following lines-

15

may not be uninteresting, as they contain so true
a description of the chapel in its present state : —

" A mouldering structure then appeared in view,

" Around whose top the creeping ivy grew :

" Once a fair church, adorned by curious art,

" In crumbling stones now dropping part from part,

" White-thorns and briars interwoven round,

«' Vie with its top and fill the desert ground j

" Denying entrance to the curious eye,

" To view the graves that underneath them lie :

" When thus my thoughts with meditation glow,

" And thus my words in mournful accents flow :

' Is this the place where numerous footsteps trod ;

' Where living votaries fill'd the house of God ?

' Where the full chorus of the sounding choir

* Bade one loud strain of prayer and praise aspire ?
' How silent now the desolated spot,

* Its paths untrodden, and its use forgot !' "

Near the foot of the chapel, are the remains of
a Roman entrenchment ; but as considerable part
has been destroyed by the Severn washing its
shores, it is not easy to discern what might have
been its original shape or size, the present ele-
vated rampart encloses an area of upwards of 30O
yards, and the whole appears nearly of a right-r
angular form, except bending inwards at the west-

ward point ; it is presumed formerly to have been
separated from the main land,, and erected by the
Romans, to cover the disembarkation of their
troops. This place is considered as one of the
links in the line of camps and fortresses from
Bath to the greater stations in the country of the
Silurcs, as it was an undeviating principle with
them to have a direct communication from one
place to another unobstructed, were the distance
ever so great. Some coins of that empire have
been found here, but I could not learn who had
any in their possession.

A short walk across the fields brought me to
the small village of Portscuit ; where I found
nothing remarkable, but rendered interesting from
a knowledge of its hospitable Rector.

At the extremity of those plains called Caldecot
Level, stand the picturesque and interesting ruins
of its castle. The magnitude and figure, joined
to the variety of forms for the different purposes
of defence, shew it to have been, in early ages, of
considerable consequence; sufficient vestiges are

17

remaining to percei\7e that elegance was added to

solidity, and leave not the shadow of a doubt,
that it was adapted for the residence of a noble
proprietor : and historians pronounce, this place
was particularly connected with the birth of king
Henry VII. The real time of its founding is
uncertain. Leland says, " the castle of Cale-
t( coyd longing to the Kinge, is in base Vente-
" land, toward the Severn shore, not far from
" Matthern," and Dugdale relates, that in 1221,
Humphrey, earl of Hereford did homage, and

18

had livery of his castle of Caldecot ; the ances-
tors of the Bohun family were very early pos-
sessors; and on the assassination of the earl of
Hereford, in 13Q73 the castle was taken to by
the crown, but was restored to the son by Henry
IV ; at his death it became the property of the
earl of Stafford by marriage ; and on the division
of the estates among the Bohun family, it was
retained by Henry VI. ; afterwards it belonged
to Edward IV. who granted it to lord1 Herbert,
of Raglan, afterwards created earl of Pembroke ;
it then reverted to Henry VI. ; and was again

taken to by Edward IV. ; by Richard III. it was

•• . . . . • *

returned to the duke of Buckingham, a descend-
ant of the earl of Stafford ; but when both the
duke and his son were beheaded for rebellion,
the castle was, by Henry VIII. added to the duchy
of Lancaster, from which it was leased by the
earls of Worcester, during the reigns of Elizabeth,
James I. and Charles I. and is now held by
C.H.LEIGH, Esq;

It cannot but be regretted, that mansions so
long in succession of noble families should be

suffered to decay; one would imagine the pride of
ancestry would be sufficient reason to preserve
the residence of their progenitors, and the various
matters belonging to it from dilapidation, and
hand down the mode and construction of different
ages to posterity. It is a subject that diffuses a
gloom over the fancy, and tinctures the thoughts
with sorrow. ,

For defence it was strong, and almost impreg-
nable; and from the variety of formation, it is
evident it was built at different times, as Saxon
and Norman characters are still visible. The
entrance and front of the castle have well sur-
vived the injuries of time, and give it a grand
and venerable appearance: the ivy, with which
it is thickly coated, makes it difficult to discern
its upper form, and now serves only as a re-
tired retreat for those birds which withdraw from
the busy scenes of day. The whole has been
surrounded by a moat, which, when the river
Throggy was more serviceable, mrght have been
easily filled with water; the remains of the keep,
and the communications, a curious observer may

20

trace, and find abundant matters to prove its
former consequence : its original erection was
undoubtedly for security, the situation determin-
ing it not to be chosen for the -sake of beauty, as
it neither coYnmands grandeur of scenery or sin-
gularity of landscape ; yet, on the whole,, has an
awful and pleasing effect.

In all probability these parts have borne great
interest, for we are told, the Throggy was navi-
gable unto Caerwent, which was a mart of some
consequence; if this was the case, it is not unlikely
but Caldecot was intended for the protection
of the surrounding country. That Portscuit was
anciently a port we are certain from history, as
well as the tradition of the natives, but time, and
the alteration of the currents in the Severn, have
reduced this once busy place to a little creek,
scarcely ever used, except in imminent danger,
by the small craft that navigate the Severn and
Wye.

One can rarely travel for any distance in this
quarter, without perceiving indubitable proofs of

21

the splendor that has reigned. Indeed the local
situation, and numerous conveniencies, were suf-
ficient inducements to give these parts the pre-
ference to others, and to render them eligible
to the Romans for stationary purposes. Through-
out the whole kingdom it is but seldom we can
discover the want of judicious reasons in any of
their fixed residences ; their roads for communi-
cation are numerous, and monuments of their
unwearied assiduity, convince us that nothing
was left undone for convenience or security.

Although the present appearance of Caerwent
has nothing respectable or inviting, yet it deserves
every attention that can be bestowed by the
antiquarian or lover of those scites memorable
for having been the scenes of magnificence, ge-
nius, and heroism. Roman greatness has at this
place shone with a splendor little inferior to any
other part of the kingdom ; fragments of stately
piles, and innumerable coins and medals, have
been found to prove the consequence this place
has borne among their stations.

£

It is situated on the Via Julia,, or military road,
which, Camden informs us, was made in the year
80, by Julius Frontinus; but now few are the
remains whereby it can be traced; the walls which
enclosed the fortified space may still be ascertained
by close investigators, and those parts which are
distinct, exhibit, perhaps, the most perfect rem-
nants of Roman masonry in the kingdom, and
prove the judicious means they used to render
their works as lasting as could be done by human
perseverance. Some idea of its original strength
may be formed by a part, nearly ten yards long,
and of the whole thickness, which has separated
from the rest and completely rolled over. LE-
LAND, who was here in the sixteenth century,
says it had then the appearance of having been
" Sumtyme, a fair and large Cyte ;" that the
" places where the 1111 gates was, yet appeare;"
and, " in digging they finde fundations of great
ee Brykes, Tessellata, Pavimenta and Numismata,
" argentea, simul et aerea."

British histories of the central ages are in gene-
ral silent relating to Caerwent, nor are the Welsh

23

writings very communicative, and the spot which
was originally occupied by numerous Roman edi-
fices, are substituted by few houses, cottages, and
a church, all of which were apparently raised
from the fragments and facings of former splen-
dor ; and, in all probability, where 10,OOO souls
have inhabited, there are not at this time more
than 100 persons,

This was the Venta Silurum of Antoninus, and
is supposed to be the capital of the Silures before
the Roman conquest; afterwards it was considered
to have held its dependence on Caerleon, to
which place there is a tradition, that it also had
a communication by a subterraneous passage,
whose entrance was from a lane which still re-
tains the name of Arthur.

On three sides may be observed what was once
a deep moat ; and on the western end of the south
front, are three half bastions projecting from the
wall, of octangular form, each side measuring
about ten feet : the whole is in circuit more
than a mile, and where the walls are most perfect^

24

may be twelve feet thick at the bottom, and eight
or nine at top ; reaching to the height of twenty-
four feet. It is impossible not to notice the pleas-
ing and singular appearance of the ruins, in some
places broken, mouldering, and melancholy; in
others agreeably diversified by a variety of foliage :
trees and ivy adorn the ruins, and contribute
to awaken sensations of departed magnificence,
now only known from the silent records, with
which the place numerously abound.

There is no doubt but Agricola resided here for
some time; and Tacitus's assertion of his endea-
vouring to soften the ferocious manners of the
Britons, by introducing refinements and specimens
of the arts, seems realised by the tessellated pave-
ment, which, when originally discovered in 1777*
must have been beautiful indeed ; as the follow-
ing is the elegant description by Mr. WYNDHAM:

" The pavement is In length twenty-one feet six inches, and in breadth
" eighteen feet, a border edged with the Greek scroll and fret, surrounds the
" whole, but on the north side this border, being upwards of three feet, is
" much broader than on the other side ; this was designed in order to
" reduce the circles within a square. These circles are about three feet

25

« diameter, and are encircled with a variety of elegant ornaments, and
" separated from each other by regular and equal distances. I think there
" are thirteen of these circles. The pieces of which the pavement is com-
" posed are nearly square, the breadth of them being about the size of a
" narrow die ; these are of various colours, blue, white, yellow, and red ;
" the first and second are of stone, and the yellow and red are of terra cota ;
" by a judicious mixture of these colours, the whole pattern is as strongly
" described as it would have been in oil colours. The original level is
" perfectly preserved, and the whole composition is so elegant and well
" executed, that I think it has not been surpassed by any mosaic pavement
" that has been discovered on this, or even on the other side of the Alps.
" In my opinion, it is equal to those beautiful pavements which are pre-
" served in the palace of the King of Naples at Portice. I am strongly
" inclined to think, that it is of the same age with Agricola."*

Another author adds, (e This probably was the
ec state room or tent of the prefect of the Legio
" Secunda Aug. from an inscription on a stone dug
" up here. — JULIA ESSEUNDA vixit annos xxxv."

From this description I was eager to see it, and
having procured leave of the tenant, and given a
precaution not be disturbed in my research,
proceeded to the place through an orchard whose
spreading branches were bending under the weight
of fruit, and modestly paying homage to that soil

* Archseologia,

26

which gave them birth ; but conceive my aston-
ishment and chagrin, to find the remnants of that
once precious relic, were then being unmercifully
rooted up by a sow and her numerous offspring ;
after driving them away, (with no slight degree of
anger), found but little remaining, and that little
so defaced by weeds and grass as to be scarcely
seen, and though a day was nearly bestowed in
'removing the obstructions, I was unable to trace
any characters, excepting the central circle, but
am, by the kindness and assistance of Mrs.
LEE SON, of Pontypool, enabled to present this
now interesting relic to the public ; as the original
drawing in the library of Ruperra was destroyed
m the unfortunate conflagration of that place
in J783.

When first discovered, the proprietor enclosed
it with a wall, and it is truly to be regretted,
that such methods had not been persevered in
as would have preserved that excellent curiosity
from the injuries of the elements and the depre-
dations of numerous visitors, who, not regarding
how much they effectually mutilated its original

27

beauty, were anxious to possess specimens of that
antiquity, and have, by piece-meal, conveyed away
a considerable portion : the remains, bearing no
longer any traces of its former character, lay in
heaps for those who can or will be as well satisfied
with the die, as the elegance of the pavement. Se-
veral of them I brought away, but could not find
one yellow, therefore presume that colour was
stained, as the native hues of the stone were blue
and white, and the red a terra cota ; all of which
were inlaid in a white cement : much of the or-
chard is very uneven, and strewed with desolated
heaps of ruins, manifesting the foundation of other
works of their labour ; with remnants of tiles, on
the surface of which are many parallel lines, form-
ing triangles on the centre.

In a field west of the church, called the Copses,
are found vast quantities of scoria, or Roman
cinders, the relics of melted ore, which, from the
mode of smelting in those days, caused so con-
siderable a waste, and readily accounts why such
abundance are found on ancient Roman scites;

28

they extracted the ore by first laying an high tier
of wood, and then a layer of iron stone spread over
it, thus alternately, until the pile had reached the
intended height, from which small particles would
escape.

Near the walls I observed a curious shrub to
vegetate resembling the elder both in appearance
and smell ; but on close investigation, found it
materially to deviate, not only by a fibred stem,
but a much longer and narrower leaf. To the
Rev. Mr. WILLIAMS I was particularly indebted
for the following account of it (and whose inde-
fatigable assistance in several other interesting
matters, must entitle him to my thanks), it has
the reputation of being found only in places
formerly the scenes of dreadful contests ; it dies
with the stalk, and rises fresh every spring, yield-
jng an abundance of juice, which is deemed ex-
cellent for swellings' or bruises, and particularly
in diseases peculiar to the female breast ; its
Welsh name is DAWLE-GWAD-GWYR-MARW;
that is, growing from human Hood.

To add to the obligation, he presented me
with the remains of a beautiful Roman pillar; the
capital is enriched with the leaf expressed in the
composite order, the shaft decorated with foliated
ornaments in excellent preservation : these he has
allowed me to place in his yard, near the road
side, for the inspection of the curious. He like-
wise enabled me to procure numerous coins, many
of which had been carefully preserved for a gentle-
man who visited the place several years ago, but is
now supposed to be dead. Thus I was extremely
fortunate in becoming the possessor of a valuable
lot, which, otherwise, I might have been years in
obtaining ; valuable, not as a treasure of money,
but of information, from the resemblance, figures,
and inscriptions that adorn them. In the person
arc traced those features which characterise a
haughty, cruel, or merciful disposition ; on the
reverse, that legendary eloquence beyond the
reach of manuscript ; we likewise see females,
whose beauty has been the happiness or misery
of whole kingdoms, and has swelled volumes in
description ; and others, though, perhaps, once
famous, totally unheard of in the page of history.

30

When we thus reflect on the number of these
expressive records which are found, we cannot
suppose them to be the remains of negligence,
but the enlarged idea of a great and flourishing
nation, scattered on days of triumph and public
solemn occasions, to point where they had colo-
nized and civilized a barbarous people by their
laws, learning, and useful arts. Nothing can
more positively determine them to be NUMMI
MEMORIALES, than the following circumstance :
a pit in Glamorganshire, attributed to remote an-
tiquity, with no history or tradition to inform us
by whom it was worked, was lately explored, when
a Roman coin of Victorianus was found, which is
in the possession of Lady SALUSBURY.

As those in my possession are of undoubted
authority, I shall insert those which are in the
most perfect preservation ; but as coins or medals
are those curious subjects requiring the pen of a
virtuoso, or deep read in history, to set them in
their true light, I dare not attempt a particular
illustration of them, as my abilities are incompe-
tent; and with diffidence shall observe briefly on
such as appear most striking.

31

A double face without nny legend ;— reverse not distinguishable, but ROM A
to be observed. This coin is presumed to be one of Cunokeliiie, which
British histories write Kyml-dine, he lived in Rome (which accords with the
word Romi), and was in great favor with Augustus Caesar, by whom he
was made knight, and by which means the peace of Britain was continued
without the payment of tribute.--^ tde SPEED.

An embattled head, legend COII ;" by some it is supposed to be a coin
of COM i us; — reverse, horse feeding, denoting a country at peace, rich,
and in abundance, COLA.

A plain head ; reverse, man on horseback, with a large branch over his
shoulder. It has been so defaced by scouring, that the beauty of its
ancient character is nearly lost. The reverse of this coin resembles, one
found near Sudbrook encampment, as mentioned in the 5th vol. of tho
Archaeologia.

Laureated head, ANTONINUS PIUS. P. P. T. R. P. COS. III. ; reverse,
figure resembling Hope, a wreath in one hand and a wand in the other.
Legend not discernible, but the head is in the most beautiful antique
preservation,

Ar. Laureated head, CAESAR VESPASIANUS AUG. ; reverse, a sow,
beneath it IMP. the remainder so encrusted with sacred rust, as to make it
not legible. A similar coin is in the collection of the earl of Pembroke,
Vide Gentleman's Magazine, 1767, p. 498.

Filleted head, D. N. DECENTIUS. NOB. CAES. ; reverse, the CROSS
which Constantine beheld in the skies, so placed that it formtd the
Greek sentence, " In hoc vince," and considered an auspicious omen, on
the. eve of the battle against Maxentius. SALUS. D. D. N. N. AUG. ET,
CAES.

Laureated head, IMP. CAES. DOMITIAN. AUG. GERM. COS. XX.
reverse, an altar ; above it, SALUTIS ; below, AUGUSTI. On the restor-
ation of health to the Emperor.

Laureated head, IMP. CAESAR. TRAJAN. HADRIANUS. AUG.;
reverse, figure denoting Peace, with cornucopia in one hand, and vest ga
thered up with the other, supposed to be filled with fruit, denoting that
plenty is the consequence of peace. PAX. COS. III.

Head, coronJ radiata, type of divinity, the spikes representing the rays of
the sun, IMP. CAES. ALEXANDER. AUG. ; reverse, figure seated in a
careless posture, the emblem of security. SECURITAS PERPETUA.

, Ar. Radiated head, IMP. CAEi?. ANTONINUS. AUG. ; reverse, figure
seated between two military emblems, that by the fidelity of the army pub-
lic peace was preserved. FIDES.

Plain head, MAXIMUS CAES. GERM.; reverse, large vase which
contained the frankincense ; and other sacrificing utensils. PIETAS. AUG.

Ar. Female head, with hair enclosed in a net, FAUSTINA AUGUSTA. ;
reverse, figure seated, with a cornucopia in her hand. FORTUNAE
MULIEBRI.

Head, corona radiat", IMP. CALLECTUS. FAV. ; reverse, figure re-
presenting Peace, with vest filled, an olive in one hand, a wand, the symbol
of divinity, in the other, PAX. AUG. ML. — This is one of the most perfect
ever seen.

Female head, PLAUTILLA AUGUSTA ; reverse, figure in the character
gf Piety, an infant in one arm, a wand leaning on the other, PIETAS. The

.

33

<rhild denotes a pledge of peace, as it often took away the occasion of war
by cutting off all disputes to the succession, which made it to be considered
a public blessing.

Spired head, IMP. VICTORIANUS. AUG. ; reverse, figure, a cornu-
copia in one hand, pointing with the other to the ground, which had
yielded abundance. ABUNDANTIA.

Female head, SEVERINR. AUG ; reverse, figure between two military
.ensigns, CONCORDIA MILITUM, signifying public peace was preserved
by the allegiance of the army.

Head, CUALLICINLICINIUS. P. F. AUG.; reverse, figure being
crowned with a wreath by Fame, supported on his right hand ; in his left
a spear ; on the ground, a bird with a wreath in its beak. IOVI. CONSER-
VATORI. S.N.N. The bird expresses the symbol of vigilance, by which
the state had been preserved.

Laureated head, IMP. CONSTANTINUS. P. F. AUG; reverse, three
standards, S.P.Q.R. OPTIMUS, the remainder not legible; an important
service performed by three legions which were thus particularly honoured j
but this reverse likewise denotes an oath of fidelity to the Emperor.

Helmeted head, IMP. GRATIANUS. P. F. AUG; reverse, a soldier in a
galley, who appears to be encouraging others to follow him. GLORIA.
HONORUS. to perpetuate some memorable invasion.

Head,D. N. HONORUS. P. F. AUG. ; reverse, a soldier with the labarum
in one hand, a globe in the other ; GLORIA ROMANORUM, denoting,
the glory of Roman arms could place the standard in any part of the
world.

34

Head, coroiu radiatS, IMP. VICTORIANUS. P. F. AUG; reverse, figure
With a spear in one hand, a shield in the other. ROMA. AUG. that a pre-
paration for war, was the security of peace, and of Rome.

Ar. Studded fillet head, D. N. VALENS. P. F. AUG. ; reverse, a seated
figure, with the wand of divinity by her side, being crowned by Fame
URBS ROMA; by religion and arms the Roman city is secure.

Ar. Filleted head, D. N. VALENTIANUS. IUN. p. F. AUG. ; reverse,

figure of Rome seated, with a wand in one hand, and being crowned by a

small Victory, which she supports on the other; by her side is a child, and

above it a star, denoting it to be a pillar of the Julian race. URBS ROMA.

i

Ar. Head, IMP. CAES. DOMITIANUS ; reverse, victory seated, offer-
ing a wreath. VICTORI.

Filleted head, D. N. VALLICINLICINIUS. NOVE ; reverse, a building
resembling the gate of a city, representing the Castra Praetoria at Rome,
the magazine of com for the people. PROVIDENTIA. '

Laureated head, being crowned by Fame, CONSTANTINUS. IUN.
KOB. C ; reverse, BEATA TRANQUILLITAS ; an altar with a globe upon
it ; above, three stars ; by victory blest tranquillity was restored to the
world.

Head, D. N. VALENTINIANUS. P. F. AUG. ; reverse, soldier keeping a
captive down with one hand, and supporting the labarum with the other j
denoting the conquest of a colony.

Head, corona radiata, IMP, CALLECTUS, P\ F, AUG; reverse, a galley
with several rowers ; denoting prosperity. VIRTUS. AUG.

35

Filleted head, GRATIANUS. P. F. AUG ; reverse, a Roman crowned by
Fame, and receiving offers from a supplicant on his knees ; legend not
discernable.

Head, CRISPUS. NOB. CAES; reverse, an altar with VOTIS. XX. upon
it, and a globe with two stars. TRANQUILLITAS. ; tranquillity is restored
to all nations in the world.

Spired head, IMP. CA. TACITVS. AUG; reverse, soldier marching with
a lance in his hand, and iron mace on his shoulder, such as was some-
times used by Roman troopers. MARS. VICTOR.

Head, D. N. VALENTINIANUS AUG ; reverse, soldier with foot on a
captive, and supporting the labaram. VIRTUS. EXERCITI.

Wreathed head, IMP. LICINIUS P. F. AUG. ; reverse, soldier, resting
one hand on a shield, in the other a weighty javelin, called Pilum. MAR-
TRION SERVATOR.

Plain head, D. N. MAGNENTIUS. P. F. AUG. ; reverse, two female
figures with joined hands, representing unity supporting a shield, on which
appears, VOT. V. MULT. X. VICTORIAE. D. D. N. AUG. ; amity pro-
cured by some memorable victory.

i

Helmeted head, URBS. ROMA ; reverse, wolf suckling two children ;

above them a branch, a symbol of victory, and two stars; denoting them
to be pillars of the Julian race, and preservers of the Roman city.

Filleted head, VALENTIANUS. P. F. AUG. ; reverse, soldier, one hand
on the head of a captive, and in the other a labarum, on which was wrought
the cross that Constantine beheld in the skies. GLORIANO HONORUS,
. I'idt ADDISOX on Medals.

36

Head, with rich studded fillet, FLIVI. CONSTANTIUS. NOBE. ; re-
verse, two soldiers with spears in their hands, looking at a star above them.
GLORIA EXERCITVS. The father of Julius Caesar was supposed to have
been changed into a star, the appearance of which was considered a good "
omen, and caused the saying, " See, Caesar's lamp is lighted in the skies."

Laureated head, CONSTANTINUS. MAX. AUG. ; reverse, two sol-
diers with spears, guarding two standards ; GLORIA EXERCITVS, in
honor of victory, and in compliment to the soldiers-

Head, CONST ANS. P. F. AUG. ; reverse, two figures of Fame, with
wreaths. VICTORIA AVGUSTORUM. ; struck on the defeat of some
barbarians.

Head, CONSTANTINUS. AUG. ; reverse, two soldiers, between them
the labarum with a cross, such as our Saviour died on. GLORIA. EX-
ERCITUS. ; struck to please the soldiery, who (not the emperor) at that
time managed the empire.

Ar. Head, D. N. VALENTIANUS, P. F. AUG. ; reverse, a large wreath,
round it, VOT. V. MULT. X. ; meaning that the people vowed that the
emperor might live ten years ; and by multiplying the number, wished
him, in their acclamation, a return of many ten years. — Fide CAMDEN.

Head, IMP. COLLECTUS. P. F. AUG.; reverse, a galley in the distinc-
tion of happiness. VIRTUS. AUG.

Head, corona radiatS, IMP. C. CURL. DIOCLETI ANUS. AUG. ; re-
verse, two figures with hands joined, CONCORDIA. MILITUM.; sig-
nifying that amity was restored among the soldiers.

Head, with rich studded 'fillet, GRATIANUS. AUG/; reverse, a soldier
leaning on his shield with one hand; and holding the standard with the

other, GLORIA.; denoting, the standard once fixed on a new colony, it was
his duty to support it with his life.

Filleted head, D. N. CONSTA. P. F. AUG. ; reverse, a galley, in which
is a seated figure appearing to be a captive, and a soldier supporting the
labarum, being crowned by victory. FEL. TEMP. REPARATIS ; in
honour of vanquishing an enemy's fleet.

Filleted head, CONSTANS. P. F. AUG. ; reverse, two figures offering
very thin wreaths ; between them a narrow sprig, probably parsley, a
garland of which was the reward to the victor in the Nemean games.
VICTORIAE. AUG. Q. N. N.

Helmeted head ; reverse, figure resembling Hope, with the symbol of
divinity in one hand, and the other leaning on a hoop, or circle, the em-
blem of eternity. The figure is mantled in a MULTICIUM, a dress so thin
that the symmetry of the person can be seen through it.

Wreathed head, CONSTANTINUS. P. F. AUG. ; reverse, figure with
rays darting from his head, and a globe in his hand. This coin is one to
shew the extent of human vanity and the effects of flattery, denoting him
the offspring of the sun, by whose beauty the world was enlightened.

Wreathed head, VALENTINIANUS. NOB. CAES. ; reverse, figure with
a spear in one hand arid thunderbolt in the other, denoting, if aroused to
war, a terrible and irresistible force in battle.

Head, corona radiat", IMP. VICTORIANUS. AUG. ; reverie, figure
offering the emblem of peace with out hand, and supporting the wand of
divinity in the other. PAX.

38

Head, with studded fillet, D. N. GRATIANUS. P. F.-AUG. ; reverse,
figure leaning in an easy posture, with, a patera in her hand, from which
the offerings were poured on the altar. SECURITAS. REPUBLICAE.

Filleted head, CONSTANTINUS. MAX. ; reverse, two armed soldiers,
standing by two military ensigns, GLORIA. EXERCITVS. ; this coin was
struck in compliment to the army, on the defeat of 'Maxentius.

.

_

Filleted head, VALENTINIANVS. P. R AUG.; reverse, a winged
figure dressed in a MUITICIUM, moving in haste, a palm branch in one
hand, and a garland in the other, below which is a star; RESTITUTOR^
REPVBLICA. This coin was struck in Antipch, on Britain being restored,
which was in a declining state.

With twenty-two others, principally duplicates to the above ; and thirty-
eight more, not sufficiently perfect to be described with certainty.

Leaving Caerwent, at the distance of three
miles, Penhow presents itself on the left.

Of this castle a small part only remains, now
humbled to the occupation of a farm-house; it
was originally a fortress of consequence, and the
residence of the Seymour family, who came to
Britain at the Roman conquest, and were the an*
cestors of the present illustrious families, the dukes
of Somerset and Northumberland. It has been
thought that Penhow was of Roman origin, and
one of the agrarian protections to the forest of
Wentwood ; at all events the Romans seized
this with other's of the same nature, and for the
same purpose. The situation is in many respects
delightful, and the scenery around it charming ;
some parts open and exposing distance, mingled
variations, and objects valuable or interesting;
other parts are so thickly clothed with wood
and forest-like appearance, to prevent further
penetration; seated, as the castle is, on an emi-
nence, it is also sufficiently retired and suited
for quietness, for in some parts of its neighbour-
hood, and nearly close to it, it cannot be imme-
diately discovered. The wood perceived on the
right hand, linking the chain of "low mountains,

•

is called Wentwood, formerly of astonishing
extent, and a royal chace.

40

Turning from the turnpike opposite to the sign
of the Unicorn, pursued a rough, uneven, narrow
road, overshadowed with trees ; the opening from
it assumed a more barren aspect, but the distance
was diversified by a small village and straggling
cottages, the whole bounded by the Bristol chan-
nel, Holmes islands, &c. &c. forming a pleasing
picture of innocent and rural life, and a fine
perspective 'landscape, so happy when presented

on canvass.

About a mile and half from the road is
Pencoed castle, commanding a prospect at

41

once delightful and pleasing ; here we have
ah additional instance of the revolution in mat-
ters of this kind ; another guarding fortress
to the forest of Wentwood, and consequently
used for the double purpose of residence
and defence, for we find that, originally, the
families to whom they severally belonged, made
it the constant rule to reside in them ; thus they
were in general as magnificent in construction,
as convenient for use and entertainment. Several
.very respectable families acknowledge their ances-
tors as proprietors, and residents at this place,
and from its remains we may form a consider-
able idea of its former consequence.

How far such fortresses were or were not
attended with suspicion and trouble to the several
governments, and gave protection to plots and
schemes against them, I shall not presume to
dwell on ; but one cannot behold the dilapidation
of such mansions without feeling a regret that
they should be suffered to go to decay ; or that
the consequence of families should degenerate
in such a manner as to disable them from main-

42

taining that hospitality they undoubtedly distri-
buted, and the necessary employment they would
naturally give to a number of the neighbouring
poor.
/•>••, -

There is a majesty and a peculiar venerableness
attaching to the entrance ; and the remnant of
what was once the keep, being partially covered
by creeping foliage hanging gracefully from
its battlements, adds an additional dignity to the
whole. The variety of the ornamental parts, and
different shape of the windows are numerous,
some wholly destroyed, some patched, and only
those of immediate service being preserved, cause
the building to assume a singular appearance,
and presents a true picture of faded prosperity.

the remaining apartments, once the seats of
mirth and festivity, are converted to the various
purposes of its farming inhabitants, not regarding
regularity otherwise than suiting their occupations :
having walked rpund it, but with no induce-
ment to ask for a sight of the inside, I sat down
to take the representation of its gateway., and

43

when nearly finished, its occupier came forward
with a countenance it was fortunate he had not
visited his dairy with, or it would have made a
dreadful change in its contents, on my drawing
being completed, shut my book without allowing
him to see what I had been doing, which did
not make his manners more pleasing or his looks

more becoming.

i

I afterwards understood that this conduct
(which was never shewn in any other instance,)
probably proceeded from his being at variance
with his landlord, by whom he might presume I
was sent to make some remarks respecting di-
lapidations.

Returning to the road by the way I came, at
the distance of two miles on the left an elegant
mansion presents itself, seated on an eminence,
decorated with all the appendages to denote a
residence of distinction, and to render it an in-
teresting and pleasing object to the traveller:
enquiring of an old woman the name of the place
and proprietor, she answered, Lanwerne, the seat

of Sir ROBERT SALUSBURY, Bart. Desirous of
learning a little the characters of persons of a
country which I was then a stranger to, induced
me to be inquisitive for that of its possessors ;
when giving me a look, as if pitying my ignorance
for not knowing that, which, she presumed, the
world were well informed of; she spoke of them
with a warmth of praise, animated by a peculiar
pleasure her lips appeared to take in expressing
their names, and convinced me she not only
conveyed the voice of general esteem, but that
the gratitude of her heart was in unison with
the sincerity of her lips.

From Christchurch-yard all travellers will
unite in admiring the delightful and exquisite
scene its commanding situation exhibits: from
thence the eye roves with unceasing satisfaction,
and receives enjoyment from the beautiful assem-
blage of every species of variety, in the combi-
nation of which, a glorious landscape of nature's
production is conspicuously portrayed, and with
elegance united.

This church was early founded ; and within it,
in the middle of the chancel, is a flat grave-
stone, placed 574 years since, which has long
been an object to the superstitiously credulous*
The neighbouring people say, 'tis belonging to a
saint, but this is not confirmed, nor even to be
imagined from the characters and inscription per-
ceivable on it ; but such reliance was placed on
its having a miraculous power to heal diseases on
the eve of Ascension-day, that numbers who were
disordered in their limbs, have conformed to the
notion, by remaining on the stone from sun-set to
sun-rise the next morning. In the Archasologia
it is recorded that sixteen were placed on it in
177O; but the disappointments which many>
doubtless, experienced, have greatly lowered the
belief of its virtues, and few are now the annual
visitants to try its efficacy. From what circum -
stance this strange custom has arisen, there is
no account, traditional or otherwise ; and, no
doubt, the fallacies it has occasioned will, in a few
years, obliterate its fancied property.

H

46

«. The sculpture oil the stone consists of the
figures of a man and a woman, with a cross
between them, their arms placed across, with
their hands on their breasts ; but no particular
manner in their dress, whereby to distinguish
them. The cross is somewhat curious in form-
ation, and rather more elegant than the figures ;
the whole surrounded by an inscription in old
Latin characters ; of which I dare not hazard a
literal transcript, as two gentlemen of celebrated
genius have materially varied in their descriptions.
Mr. WILLIAMS'S being, " Hie jacent Johannes
tf Colmar et Isabella uxor ejus, qui obierunt
" Anno Domini 1376, quum aiabus ppicietur
*e Deus Amen."

And Mr. Coxfc's, " Hie jacent Johannes — —
" et Elizabetha uxor ejus qui obierunt anno do-
t( mini M,CCC,LXXVI. quorum animabus mise-
" retur Deus Amen." In consequence of which
I have been induced to make a representation of
the characters, leaving it to be elucidated by the
reader, according to his own judgment.

Descending a precipitous and troublesome
hill, of nearly three quarters of a mile, reached
Caerleon: ruins present themselves at the foot

of \he bridge, originally intended for its pro*
tection ; and, as numerous coins have been found
where the piles of the bridge are now placed,
there is no doubt of its being the original pass :
to a person unaccustomed to such a bridge, and
the rattling noise whenever any weight is going
over, naturally occasions some apprehensions for
their safety, from the flooring being apparently

48

loose, yet, on close inspection, it will be found to
be perfectly secured from removing, fixed to the
posts by an horizontal bar, instead of being nailed
at the ends, which was found inadequate to re-
main long, from its aptness of splitting. The
accounts of the tide rising so high as to cover
the bridge, are erroneous ; it never has been
known yet, but that assertion has given rise to the
idea of their being purposely loose to prevent it
being carried away in such cases ; as it undoubt-
edly might, were it compacted so as to be an
impediment to the rapid current. The amazing
floods to which the river is subject, would render
it not surprising if accidents did happen, but this
is very rarely the case; and the judgment of the

Contrivance io' ovinood \>y tKc durability uf Ui6

structure, and continuance of its. safety.

,& MKM
v . " Caerleon> now step in with stately style,

" No feeble phrase may serve to set thee forth ;
" Thy famous town was spoke of many a rrtyle,
•tf-Tbou hast been great, though now but little worth:
" Thy noble bounds hath reacht beyond them all,
" In thee hath bene King Arthur's golden hall,
" In thee the wise and worthies difl repose,*

.

As the shores of the Severn were in every
respect preferable to the opposite coasts of So-
merset and Glocester, we may suppose the
Romans would not leave a place calculated for
their schemes and suitable for their existence,
to be unoccupied by them; accordingly, Caer-
leon, or Isca Silururn, was chosen as their prin-
cipal or head-quarters in these parts; having
under their management no less than twenty
Roman stations, three tribes of Britons, and the
accommodation of the whole Second Legion of
Augustus, whose signatures LEG. II. AUG. are
numerously found, recording their memory by
this mode of historic eloquence. This place is
by Richard called Isca Colonia; by AntOnine,
Isca Legionis Secundse Augusta? ; others, Isca
Augusta; and some, setting aside all Roman ori-
gin, say, it is from Lleon, an ancient British king,
who founded it, and that it was greatly enlarged
by Dunwallo Moel Mutius, the father of Belinus
and Brennus, four hundred years previous to the
birth of Christ, and distinguished as a royal resi-
dence and burial place of British kings for many
centuries, with a variety of other reasons for the

50

etymology of the word ; but Mr. OWEN, the
ingenious and indefatigable author of the Welsh
Dictionary, affirms it is derived from its situation
near two powerful streams, or Caer-Llion, the
city of waters ; after these various interpretations,
it would appear almost an offence to superior
information in offering a further, conjecture on
the probability of its derivation ; but, as this place
contained the phalanx of the second Legion, the
word Caer might be emblematical of that strength,
and Leon, an abreyiation or corruption of the
•word Legion,

.<?m

Without fatiguing the mind with its meaning,
or from whence or by what it acquired its title,
there are sufficient vestiges to ascertain that it
was formerly of great repute, and the seat of
genius, magnificence, and luxury : from its relics
we may contemplate the revolution of the Empire,
the decay of consequence, and the instability of
human labor; sunk is the pride of power and
efforts of industry ; her riches mingled with the
dust, and .all the high display of elegance and art
BO Ipnger perceived but by the crumbling frag-t

51

ments found in every direction. No distance can
be gone over without some emblem to call our
attention, nor much depth of ground laid open
without disturbing some portion of matter, with
which it was formerly embellished ; remnants of
mouldings, inscriptions, coins, scraps of vases,
pavements, altars, baths, subterranean passages,
aqueducts, and vaults. An historian in the 12th
century gives this description of it " Many ves-
" tiges of its ancient splendor are yet remaining:
" stately palaces with their gilded tiles, which
" formerly displayed Roman grandeur, and many
" sumptuous edifices ; also an exceeding high
se tower, remarkable hot baths, ruins of ancient
" temples, theatres encompassed with stately
(t walls partly yet standing, subterraneous edifices
" are frequently met with, not only within the
c< walls, aqueducts, vaults, hypocausts, stoves,
" &c."

This place is stated to have been for conse-
quence the third city in Britain ; and from the
year 182 to 521 it was an archbishopric, and had
three churches, one of them annexed to a con-

52

vent of religious virgins, and sacred to Julius the
martyr ; the second dedicated to St. Aaron, and
had a noble choir of canons ; the third was the
metropolitan church of Wales, inhabited by
monks, who retained it till the translation of the
see by St. David to Menevia ; when the subju-
gation of the neighbouring districts was com-
pleted, there was also an establishment formed
for an abbot and monks of the Cistertian order ;
nor was it less conspicuous after the Saxon con-
quest, as it is reputed to have been foremost in
the annals of literary fame by containing an
university for philosophy, astronomy, and other
sciences.

• :

The present place occupies but a trifling part
of the ancient city, as the boundaries may be
tolerably well traced, and the adjoining suburbs
were extended for some miles, where there are
indubitable proofs of having been many sumptuous
edifices,, which in all likelihood were the detached
residences of the, higher persons. The most pe?v
feet part of the original boundary is in Round
Table FieltJ, where the wall now remaining is

53

about fourteen or fifteen feet in height, and
twelve in thickness, enclosing a space of 53O
yards by 460, the longest sides pointing to the
south-east ; contiguous to the enclosed ground,
but without the walls, is an oval concavity or
campestrian amphitheatre, known by the name of
King Arthur's Eound Table ; it is 74 yards by 64,
hollowed in the ground with regular sloping banks,
and had seats rising one above the other; but
whether of stone or turf, has been the subject of
much conjecture, though it is affirmed that in the
memory of some still living, stone seats were
found, and that a figure of Diana, composed of
alabaster, was dug up near the place.

!

The lane which unites with the Table Field is
called the Broadway, where it would be impossi-
ble to give a catalogue of interesting relics strewed
where the soil has been lately broken up for the
purpose of procuring building stone, which in-
duced me to employ some labourers for a day,
when I acquired several different specimens of
terra cotta, forming small vases, not more numer-
ous than the characters upon them, some executed

i

54.

with a great display of skill, and the embellishments
which adorned them comhine much elegance ;
in one, my feelings were particularly engaged, it
contained a clay, not only peculiarly smooth, hut-
singularly firm, moulded with a considerable
quantity of ashes and some pieces of unconsumed1
bone ; this circumstance gave birth to the strong-
est emotions of my mind excited by admiration,
conjecturing it might be the small funeral monu-
ment, transmitting to posterity a life not only
distinguished for bravery, but signalized by other
memorable deeds.

Two portable mill stones added to the collec-
tion from this place, measuring fifteen inches
diameter, being part of the provident atten-
tion always paid by that great and considerate
people.

Returning by the lane opposite to the field
before' spoken of, is the Berrows, presumed to
be a corruption of the word Bear-house, and pro-
bably where they kept the wild beasts, to be
opposed to the gladiators in the amphitheatre.

I now extended my walk across a few fields to

.a bathing house belonging to BUTLER, Esq.

to examine a curious stone said to be in the wall
of that building : abridged of all light but what
glimmered through the crevices of a darkened
window, must plead if its representation is no,t
so correct as I could wish, after the considerable
attention that was paid, in the hope it would
throw a light on the history of a person once
famed in this place, the dimensions of it are 20 by
1 2 inches : below it are three stones, or rather
bricks, two of which are scribed with numerous
lines, and in various forms, the center appeared
to consist of small Roman characters, but the
darkness of the situation baffled all attempts
to describe them.

In the possession of Mr. NICHOLS is an in-
taglio, set as a ring, representing the figure of
: Hercules strangling the Nemean Lion, the exe-
cution is good, and the setting is not only <?f
the purest gold, but unusual form ; the polite-
ness of this gentleman, in allowing me to take

an impression and representation of it, demands
my thanks, and for the tradition of the place

he was so obliging as to communicate.

.

A large hollow tile, one end being 16, the other
only 13 inches, and in -length 23, with the im-
pression of LEG. II. AUG.

And a pavement 1 6 inches square and two in
thickness, with the same impression, were pre-
sented me; the former by Sir ROBERT SALUS-
BUKY, Bart, and the other by the Rev. Mr.
EVANS, of Careau, both of whom must accept
my warmest acknowledgments : they are supposed
to have belonged to a laconicum or sarcophagus.

In a wall belonging to Mr. WILLIAMS, currier,
is a remarkable inscribed stone, but so defaced by
washing with lime, as nearly to obliterate the cha-
racters. This stone was brought from the mound
or keep, and was part of those bought of the lord
of the manor, from the foundation of some build*
ings there.

57

There is also in the possession of Mr. RICH-
ARDS, a Venus Marina, with a Dolphin in her
hand in basso relievo, but the sculpture is very

rude_, and time has nearly obliterated the design.

•

I now directed my course to a newly-erected
house near the church, belonging to Mr. GET H IN
(who owns the market-boat, which goes regularly
to Bristol); near the foundation of the above
structure were raised fragments of free-stone, con-
taining some remains of inscriptions, the whole
of which is supposed to have been originally a
pillar. After considerable labor bestowed on
them with mops, brooms, and brushes, sufficient
characters were legible on the pedestal to trace
that it was dedicated in the consulate of Maxi-
mus, during the reign of Alexander Severus, the
others composing the shaft are said to be an
inscription by the second Augustan Legion, and
indicating the aera when it was erected.

Desirous of acquiring for the public any relic
which- might be interesting, I applied to the

•58

owner, hearing-they were of no value to him only
as suiting the uses of the mason, • determined to
•rescue them from such a disgrace, offered either
to procure an equal quantity of stone suitable

" for the purposes required, or to pay him any fair
determined price; Mr. -GETH IN consented, and
assured he would call on me for that purpose the
next time he came to Bristol ; not fulfilling his
word, I revisited Caerleon with the intent of con-

- eluding the bargain., when lo ! :I arrived just in
time to see the remains of the last stone fixing
for a window frame, <I have taken the trouble
to detail this, not as a reprimand for an offence
offered to myself, but to the public, who must
therefore accept the description, and representation
on paper, as I was disappointed in presenting
them in their real state,: -and having them placed

i in -a: suitable situation for the inspection of the
curious.

I cannot take my leave of the numerous test-
imonials of : former greatness which have been
found at Caerleon, without requesting an oiler of

my thanks to Miss MORGAN, not only for her
graceful and . obliging affability in allowing me
to inspect those in her posession, but for her
laudable pursuit in collecting the antiquities of a
place once so celebrated in the annals of fame ; a
pursuit not only influenced by her general wish
of doing good, but encouraged by an elegant
refinement of literary taste.

I have often lamented that others have not been
actuated by similar views, or that a public reposi-
tory has not been instituted in a district so distin-
guished ; it is an establishment that might be
conducted at a small expence, and would furnish
to the world many rare antiquities of import-
ance, and induce the labourer to repair to the
receptacle with any found medal, (valuable to
him only by its metal) who otherwise hastens
to the silversmith, where all its recorded history
is at once lost in the crucible. Should such ant
Institution be formed, it is needless to say the
pleasure I should take, not only in contributing
what the country has furnished, but in adding
some valuable records of historic eloquence.

60

In the collection of Miss Morgan are coins
of Julia Augusta, Vespasian, Antoninus Pius,
Hadrian, Nerva, Plautilla, Claudius, Faustina,
Constantine, Constantius, Carausias, Magnentius^
Carinus, and Salustius ; with fibulae, crosses,
lamps, jasper terressa, &c. From such a col-
lection having been made on the spot, I could
little hope to acquire many coins ; but after can-
vassing every probable person, was able to procure
a few by the assistance of my indefatigable guide,
/. Jones, the parish-clerk (whom I must not for-
get to mention) ; give John but plenty of Cwrw*,
and I will pronounce no person can be more
indefatigable, or shew the tiquities of the place
to greater advantage. After having taken me to
the church, and exhibited a rib four feet in length
and five inches in breadth, with an assurance
of it being from the famous dun cow, (which,
by the bye, was only from a small grampus),
he led me to Arthur's table ; after -looking sted-
fastly on the spot for some time, " There, there,'*
says he, " sunk that king and two thousand men ;"
fetching a deep sigh, accompanied with three
distinct pointings of his finger : " Two thousand

* Ale,

" men ! ! ! surely there is not room ?" on seeing
John's wrath begin to kindle at" my disbelief, I
yielded to his information, considering how vain
it is to contend with a man, not only versed in
earthly matters, but knowing with precision the
space occupied by mortality, and whose interest
it was to pack mankind as close as possible.

Of a castle there are some remains, but by
whom founded is uncertain ; some have said by
Romans, others British, and some Saxons ; but
it is certain it was of great strength at the time
of the Norman conquest : the mound, on which
the great tower stood, is in much the same state
it ever was ; and let who will be the projector^
gives us a lasting proof of their indefatigable
labor ; its construction being no less than 30O
yards in circumference at the bottom, and 90
at its height. Within the last century there was
a large portion of the structure remaining, which
suffered considerable injury from the memorable
hard weather in 173Q. Some idea of the massive
building may be formed by surveying part of the

foundation, which is not less than 2O feet deep,

K

10 broad, and 30 long, in one solid mass ; in its.
pristine state this castle was, no doubt, a fortress
of very considerable consequence ; and is men-
tioned in historic annals as having been subject to
many assaults and defences ; of the importance
of Caerleon we may guess, when we are told
that Alfred sent a fleet against it, and was unsuc-
cessful ; and though the reason was in some
measure occasioned by his wanting a greater force
elsewhere to check the Danes, still it shews it
was not an easy matter to subdue this once flou-
rishing place.

As a residence of several Welsh chieftains, it
underwent continual feuds between the English
and them, and as circumstances happened, was
in different possessions without any permanent
advantage to either. Jowerth seems to have been
its fiercest assailant, and after a variety of fortunes
was settled in it by a grant from Henry II. who,
in 1169, on his journey to Ireland, went to Caer-
leon, and being supicious of Jowerth, then lord
of it, turned him out; on Henry's departure,
Jowerth's two sons and a numerous band re-took

63

the town, but were baffled in their attempts on
the castle : thus they were continually harassed
and harassing, until the complete subjection of
Wales by Edward I. who restored the castle and
lordships to the original proprietors, the family
of Clare. Edward IV. and Richard III. were
afterwards possessors, and it continued a long
time the property of the crown ; the Morgan
family of Llantarnam, became its owners, and
from their descendants it has been purchased by
the present proprietor, Mr. BLANNIN.

I know not what reason there is to conclude
there was no station here previous to the arrival
of the Romans, as the natives could not be in-
sensible of its conveniences, and the advantages
resulting from its situation. It is known that, in
early ages, the chief or prince of a district had a
fixed place for government, and ,in those rude
times, none was more applicable for the purpose
than Caerleon, which the Romans observing,
they would naturally dispossess the settlers,
and appropriate it to themselves, and when firmly
established and enjoying quietness, certainly added

vast improvements. The monument of their
labor which enclosed the camp is a parallelogram
inclining to a square, and the suburbs are said to
have extended nine miles, reaching to Christ*-
church and St. Julian's,

Before I take my leave of Caerleon, I cannot
resist offering a slight description of those classic
heroes, who were once its inhabitants ; trusting
it may not be thought inapplicable to the subject,
or uninteresting to the reader.

The camp of a Roman legion had generally the
appearance of a fortified city, cleared from all
impediments, and a square of 700 yards was fully
sufficient for 20,OOO soldiers. The Praetorium,
or general's tent, was usually in the midst, and
raised above the rest ; the streets perfectly strait,
and from the rampart to the tents, was 20O
feet, enclosed by a wall generally twelve feet
high, pf a similar breadth and depth, surrounded
by a ditch. Whenever they departed they carried
all their necessaries for service and food, in addi-
tion, to their arms ; and their accustomed pace,

loaded in this manner, was 20 miles in six hours :
they considered being within the walls of a city, as
a mark of weakness, and usually stationed them-
selves by the side of neighbouring rivers, and most
frequently made it their lasting residence. In
Britain were three legions of these hardy and
active people ; one of them at the place lately
under observation, which from all its collected
appearances, was not less than the rest. A
legion usually consisted of a body of 6831 Ro-r
mans, and when all their attendants and auxili-
aries were included, the whole amounted nearly
to 1 3,OOO ; their arms were an open helmet with
a lofty crest, a breast-plate and coat of mail,
greaves on their legs, and a buckler on the left
arm, four feet long and two and an half broad,
formed of wood covered with an hide, and
strongly guarded with plates of brass ; a light
spear, and a ponderous javelin called Pilum, six
feet long, headed with a triangular point of
steel of 18 inches, and a short well tempered two-
edged sword, were the missiles of the infantry ;
the weight of whose armour and all appendages

was golb. which must give us a proof of their
natural strength.

In a legion were generally 726 horse, accoutred
with a helmet, long shield, light boots, and coat
of mail, a javelin, and a long broad sword; and
sometimes an iron mace and lance ; on the sol-
dier's entrance into service, an oath of fidelity
was administered with circumstantial solemnity ;
and under these impressions his own will was in
every thing submitted to the command of his
leader, nor any hesitation to become sacrificed
whenever the safety of the empire or emperor
required it. Religion and fyonor inspired him
with firm attachment to his standard, and the
glittering of the eagle added fury to his exertions
to maintain it ; to abandon that sacred ensign
was held ignominious and impious, and neither
hopes nor fears could make him betray or desert
it : such being the power, numbers, and resolution
of the Romans, we cannot be surprised at their
carrying victory wherever the chose, leaving a
npble example to those who ha e the love of their
king, and welfare of their country at heart.

It must, however, reflect great honor on the
Silures for their courage and perseverance against
so formidable a phalanx, whose appearance was
calculated to excite dismay, and whose impetu-
osity must seem irresistible; but their long and
determined opposition, proves the idea of inde-
pendence a principle amazingly encouraging, and
extremely impressive to direct every exertion for
the preservation of that freedom, which was not
wrested from them without the most noble and
arduous endeavour on their parts to prevent it.

I was unable to procure more than one coin of
singularity ; it has a plain head, with the hair
arrayed in a peculiar stile, with three balls in good
relief ; the reverse is not so perfect, but appears
to represent the prow of a ship, with three balls
below it ; the acrosteria, or prow of a ship, distin-

X

guishes a naval victory of a maritime city ; and as
the coin does not appear to be either Roman or
British, (if ever the Danes did strike medals to
perpetuate events), this, probably, might be to
record the fruitless attempt made by the fleet of
king Alfred on this place; another has evidently a

Roman head, but not sufficiently discernible to
justify an opinion of the origin ; the metal resem-
bles brass, and is supposed to be part of those
valuable ores that ran together on the burning
of Corinth, by Mummius. The rest are principally
duplicates of those procured at Caerwent, and
several have so severely suffered from the incessant
labor of the hand of time, as to render all repre-
sentation or description totally impossible, which
is particularly to be lamented on two large ones
taken out of the wall, which probably would have
elucidated a considerable share of early history
of the place.

Leaving* Caerleon, I returned by its bridge, and
cannot think of passing its tottering frame with,
out relating an extraordinary circumstance still
in the memory of several persons ; the story was
frequently told me at that place, but I shall beg
leave to avail myself of Mr. COKE'S description.

«' On the 2pth of October, 1772, as Mrs. Williams, wife of Mr. Edward
" Williams, brazier, was returning from the village of Caerleon to the
" town, at eleven o'clock at night, with a candle and lanthorn, the vio-
" lencc of the current forced away four piers and a considerable part of-

" the bridge ; on a fragment of this mass, consisting of an entire rOOm,
" with the beams, posts, and flooring, she was hurried down the river,
" but preserved sufficient presence of mind to support herself by the rail-
" ing : on arriving near St. Julian's, the candle was extinguished ; she
" immediately screamed for help, and was heard by several persons, who
" started out of their beds to assist her j but the violence of the stream
" had already hurried her beyond their reach ; during this time she felt
" little apprehension, as she entertained hopes of being delivered by the
'* boatmen of Newport ; her expectations were increased by the numerous
*' lights which she discovered in the houses, and she accordingly redoubled
" her cries for assistance, though without effect. The fragment on which
" she stood being broken to pieces against a piece of Newport bridge, she
" fortunately bestrode a beam, and after being detained for some minutes
" by the eddies at the bridge, was hurried along towards the sea : in this
" perilous situation she resigned herself to her approaching fate, and,
*' addressing herself to Heaven, exclaimed * Oh ! Lord, I trust in thee,
' thou alone canst save me.' About a mile from Newport, she discerned
" a glimmering light, in a barge which was moored near the shore, and
" redoubling her cries, was heard by the master of the vessel ; after hailing
" her, and learning her situation, he cried out ' keep up your spirits and
' you will soon be out of danger :' then leaping into the boat, with one of
" his men, rowed towards the place from whence the scream proceeded ;
" but some time elapsed before he overtook her, at a considerable distance
" from the anchorage of his barge; the night was so dark that they could
" not discover each other, and the surf swelling violently, the master
" repeated his exhortations, charged her to be calm, and not attempt to
" quit her station ; fortunately a sudden dispersion of the clouds enabled
*' him to lash the beam fore and aft to the boat : at this moment, how-
" ever, her presence of mind forsook her, and eagerly attempting to throw
" herself forward she was checked by the oaths of the seamen, who were
" at length enabled to heave her into the boat} but could not disengage

L

70

" themselves from the beam till they had almost reached the mouth of
" the Usk; this being effected, not without great difficulty, they rowed to
" the shore, and embayed themselves till the first dawn of the morning,
"- when they conveyed her in the boat to Newport. Though Mrs. Williams
" was in an advanced state of pregnancy, she received so little injury from
" the perilous accident, that after a few hours repose she returned to Caei>
" Icon.— I have been thus minute in detailing the particulars of this pioviden-
" tial escape, because it has been related with so many improbable circum-
" stances as to occasion doubts of its reality. For the truth of this narrative,
" I can adduce the testimony of Mr. Jones, of Clytha ; Mr. Kemeys, of
" Mayndee ; and the Rev. Mr, Evans ; all cf whom soon afterwards con-
" versed with Mrs. Williams : to Mr. Evans in particular, she uniformly
" repeated the same account, and confirmed it on her death-bed with the
" most solemn asseverations. The disinterested conduct of the master and
" boatmen ought not to be omitted ; notwithstanding the peril to which
" they were exposed, and their active exertions, they repeatedly declined
" the liberal recompence offered by Mr. Williams."

Turning short to the left, I went to Upper
Bulmore, to see a large sculptured stone, near
the door of a farm house by that name ; it was
found a few feet below the surface where it now
stands, and is four feet by three and a half, repre-
senting a man seated in an arched recess ; the
right hand is mutilated, as is much of the whole,
the left resting on a globe ; it is supposed to
be designed for the statue of an Imperator, sur-
rounded with many ornaments, though with little"
remains, but that little has a claim to elegance.

Passing the venerable mansion of Kemeys, the
lofty brow of its hill is thickly mantled with
wood, where, on its summit is a building stiled
Kemeys' folly. I ever dislike repeating a report
to the prejudice of others ; but as the following
is so neat a repartee, and perhaps will inform why
the appellation is applied to many other buildings,
I must, therefore, forego my general inclination :
the proprietor boasting to his relation that he
had erected a building from which he could see
several counties, " Then I am sorry for it, as
-" several counties can see THY FOLLY,"

I A neat bridge of three arches bestrides the
Usk, and has the reputation of being built- by
the celebrated architect of Pont-y-Prydd. The
country about it is extremely pleasing, and
through one of the arches an edifice was parti-
cularly attractive, which I understood was Lan-
gibby, the seat of W. WILLIAMS, Esq. As that
place was one of my objects in view, it hastened
my departure from the bridge, and ascending a
hill, reached Tredenoc church, when its steeple
wus undergoing a repair from the effect of a
thunder-storm, the materials for which purpose
had immured the object of my visiting the fabric;
having removed them, it presented a sepulchral
stone to the memory of a soldier of the second
Augustan- Legion, three feet square, but a border
of three parallel lines on each extremity reduced
the inscription to two feet :
'

D, M. I V L. I V L I A N U S .
M I L. L fc G. I I. A V G. S T I P
X I 1 1. A R M 0 R. X I
i JI I CSITUS. EST.

CVRAAGENTE.
AMA-ND-A
CONJ UGE

73

It is thus expressed by the learned, " Diis mani-
" bus, JULIUS JULIANUS, miles legionis secundae
tf Augustas stipcndiorum octodecim armorum qua-
" draginta hie situs est cura agente amanda con-
"juge." It was discovered five feet below the
surface at the external wall of the east end of the
church.

I soon reached the great road, whose perpetual
inequalities displayed every grace of country,
pleasing to the fancy, combining beauty with im-
provement. Langibby house is seated on a gentle
rise, whose proprietors being from home, gave
me a serious disappointment ; the stable doors
were garnished by the fronts and pads of foxes,
and a few favourite » unkenneled deep-mouthed
hounds announced the approach of a stranger :
the whole characterising the residence of hospi-
tality, elegance, and domestic life. Ascending a
steep hill by the side of a small park well stocked
with deer, reached its castle almost secluded by
the redundancy of foliage that was encrusting it,
and the noble trees which were overshadow-
ing it, not only deprived me of an opportunity of

74

taking a drawing, but pictured a melancholy
gloom of departed fame.

The remains of the castle are very ruinous,
nor can the figure of former apartments be cor-
rectly traced. LELAND, speaking of this place,
calls it " the castle of Trergega, 1 1 myles from
" Cair Uskj in middle Venceland. Yt is other-
<£ wise communely cawllcd Lankiby, because it
" .is in the paroche of Kibby ;" and Church-
yard, who wrote in the reign of Elizabeth, thus
describes it in his time :

•i : — . Upon a mightie hill

«' Langibby stands, a castle once of state;
" And where there is some buildings neweof late
" A wholesome place, a passing plat of ground,
"' As good an ayre as thereabouts is found :
*' It seemes to sight, the seat was plast so well,
" In elders dales, some duke therein did dwell.*'*

The earls of Glocester, in the Clare family,
were once possessors ; then the earls of March,
of 'the Mortimer line ; since which time it has

'•• . ; f- , vj |-/;'r ;j" ^rJ*
i

* Alluding to the duke of York, who once slept there. '.» *

continued in the Williams' family : no records arc
found to prove what events occasioned the de-
struction of the fortress or the figure it has
formerly borne. In the .unsettled time of Charles,
Sir Trevor Williams is particularly mentioned as
among the parliament's adherents, but afterwards
became a strenuous supporter of his sovereign,
and an object of Cromwell's suspicion.

The mansion is on a pleasing spot, and re-
ported to be of Inigo Jones's building; the effect
of it has grandeur united to simplicity, and affords
a delightful view of the vale, the sinuous windings
of the Usk, and woods indefinitely varying in
their forms, tinged in colours corresponding to
the light or shade of the atmosphere, presenting
to the imagination every pleasing sensation of
enjoyment.

At a mile distance the town of Usk unfolds
itself to view, overlooked by its venerable ivy-
mantled castle and walls ; the country is beauti-
fully diversified by woods, corn fields, and innu-
merable interesting objects, the whole bounded

by the great Skyrrid, generally attired in misty
blue ; an elegant bridge steps across the stream,

and through one of its arches the river is seen
retiring behind its verdant banks ; a long range
of pebbles divides the transparent waters, which
not only sparkled at the separation, but mur-
mured at the interruption.

Usk is beheld with redoubled pleasure by those
who have been accustomed to the tame and un-
interesting sight ot low and long levels j the

77

variety to be viewed here is truly beautiful, happy
in the display of hill and dale, wood and water,
verdure and fertility smiling with agriculture,
promising rich rewards to the industrious ; though
divested of the rough features of crags or rocks,
still the wildness of its appearance creates such
sensations of delight as are neither tiresome to
the eye, nor fatiguing to the imagination ; the
majestic mountains in the neighbourhood are
pleasingly diversified in their forms, while the
remains of the castle, and an elegant-constructed
bridge, connecting the town with the road to
Pontypool, add not only dignity but delight to
the scene. The most eligible station to view this
place is, from the terrace adjoining the castle,
from whence the intermixture of houses, pas-
ture, &c. forms a singular contrast.

The town is not large, not having more than
170 houses and about seven or eight hundred
inhabitants, having no trade of consequence to
occupy their attention, but who appear to enjoy
the quietness of retirement in this pleasing place ;
the streets are neat and cleanly, and the river,

M

which is remarkable for the goodness of its fish,
(particularly the salmon), winds in beautiful cur-
vatures amongst gentle and quick rising hills,
and glides its silvery waters close to the town,
which bears the name of antiquity, being called
Burrium, or enclosed town. In all the neigh-
bouring fields are innumerable vestiges to prove
that in early age it has been of consequence;
but none to decide the controversy, whether or
not it was Roman ; it is supposed to havre been
formerly of much greater extent, and the appear-
ance of paved ways has been seen on turning up
the ground of the adjoining meadows.

At Usk there has been originally a priory of
five Benedictine Nuns, founded, as we are in-
formed, by Richard de Clare, and Gilbert his son,
earls of Marches, for whom the orisons were
performed. Part of one of the rooms on the first
story is well worth observation, for the devices
(which are thirty in number) representing embla-
zoned coats of arms, no doubt the armorial bear-
ings of the founders or supporters : in DUGDALB
we find this priory rated at 55l. 4s. 5d. per

annum ; it is a life estate, now the property
of my much esteemed friend Mrs. JEFFERY, a
character distinguished for possessing a superla-
tive share of instinctive literary endowments, with
a high and cultivated genius, uniting the scien-
tific excellence of the head to the moral goodness
of the heart. Part of the building is appropriated
to a farm house, and the entrance to it is through
an arched portal from the church yard.

The church has nothing to recommend it to
notice for superbness of building, or elegance of
ornaments ; it is a low structure, but very ancient,
and may be plainly discerned to have been ori-
ginally much larger ; for the tower (now at one
end) has been formerly in the middle of the
edifice, which then bore the form of a cathedral ;
but the transept and choir are no longer in
existence, and the whole was (as customary)
contiguous to the priory. The tower has some-
thing singular in appearance, being similar to
an embattled addition to a castle, and Norman
architecture is the characteristic of the pile.

80

An inscription in remote orthography, on a
narrow brass plate in the chancel, has much
excited the attention of the learned, not only
in determining the explanation, but the lan-
guage in which it is composed ; by one it has
been considered to denote the long residence
of the Romans in these parts ; by another, to
be an epitaph on a professor of astronomy, and
head of the college of philosophers at Caerleon :
but Mr. OWEN has decided it to be Welsh, in
the dialect of Gwent in the 15th century, I shall
therefore avail myself of that gentleman's infor-
mation and observation, resulting from a genius

m

which stands so pre-eminently distinguished.
•

«* I shall here exhibit the inscription as it stands on the plate, pointing
" out such words as are correctly written, according to a known system of
" Welsh orthography, by capital letters; and by italics such words as are
'•' tolerably explicit, thus :

" Nole clodc YR ethrode YAR LLEYN aduocade LLAWN hade

LLUNDEYN j}

" A barnour bede BREYNT a pile tynevaroty hauabe
'« Scliff'sun o eir sinn a seadam yske eval huske
« Dcke kummode doctor KYMMEN llena loe i LLAWN oleue.

'* 1 come now to the difficult part of my task, the restoring of the Usk
e: inscription to its true reading j in so doing, I shall be guided, in the first

81

" place, by the peculiar orthography of the Gwentian dialect, which, from
" the proofs already mentioned, should be particularly attended to.

" The most popular metre in use about the time of the writing, is, in trfe
• ' next place, a guide to be followed with considerable reliance ; but at the
" same time selecting that to which the words will best apply in their pre-
" sent form, and with the slightest alterations : the one fixed upon to an-
" swer such intention is, the CYHYDEZ WASTAD, or the even meir icily,
•* thus defined in the Bardic Institutes. 'The characteristics of the even
' metricity are a verse of eight syllables, and the length of the stanza to be

* from four to sixteen verses, possessing the general principle of the Canons;

* this metre is extremely free, and assumes, better than any other, the

* rhythmical harmony of the lines, and the verses flow with regular

* accent ; and it is a most suitable metre in compositions of love and elegy,
' and is more universally used than any other, except the smooth metri-
c city in compound metres.' Having traced out the plan, which appears

" to me most rational, I accordingly give the following as a probable read'
" ing oi the inscription :

Nota clod yr ethrod yar lleyn* Selyf synn o eir hwn a fu

Advo cudf llawn hwde llundeyn A daiar wysk ei wal kysku

A barnwni bed breynt ap llyd J Dewr kymmode doe th a chymmenjf

Ya e varn a fu henefyd§ Lien a Hue i lawn oleuen !

The meaning of which is .•

Mark this object of fame, to the disgrace of the blade f :

were he not covered London would be in difficulty.

Then let us consecrate the grave of Braint ** son of Llydd ft

who in judgment was an elderff ;

Solomon profound of word, was he j

and the sod of Isca his bed of sleep !

Ardently he would reconcile the eloquent, and the wise J J ;

the clergy and the laity would be fully illumined.

82

* Another reading, Neut clad yr atkro dayar tteyn; Ah, is not the grave
of the great teacher the sod of the vale.

•f- Or, ddvo cad, were there a battle again.

J Or, A lardoni leird breynt ay llet, and the lore of the bards of privilege
»m' their joy.

§ Or, Yn ei varw sy en liafies, in his death is become their misfortune.

|| Or, Teg y fcimmod doctor kymmen, fairly the eloquent doctor reconciled.

A free reading, according to these notes would be :-— Ah behold the grave
of the great teacher is the sod of the vale ! when a battle took place London
felt embarrassed ; and the song of the Bards of ancient lore and their joy,
all vanish through his death : he who was like Solomon, profound of word,
on Isca's banks his couch of sleep! fairly the eloquent doctor reconciled
disputes : clergy and laity were fully enlightened by him.

^f The original word for this is Llam, which signifies any thing stretched
Out flatly, also a flat slang of land ; a vale.

** The meaning of this word is privilege ; but as it has been used for a
proper name of men, I have taken it in that sense, otherwise no name
occurs as the object of the inscription.

•j-f- These parts of the original are so obscured, that it may be made any
thing else of the same length.

JJ I have preserved an ambiguous form, like the original, in this line, for
if it were written and pointed ; ardently he would reconcile, the eloquent
and the wise ; the epithets eloquent and wise, might be applied to him who
is described as the reconciler.

What is now a prison was once a Roman Ca-
tholic chapel, where many parts of the structure
are perceivable, and in the gothic style, parti-
cularly the southern gateway, but that to the
north is now filled up.

83

Of Usk castle, very little can be said of its
present splendor, nor can we perceive it ever
bore ensigns of magnificence. It is ponderous in
construction, and not remarkable for singular
contrivances ; one gateway remains which was
the principal entrance, and the groove which con-
tained its portcullis may be seen; round and
square towers, as usual, were its chief strength,
and from the eyelet holes an enemy might
be descried or annoyed : the baronial hall was
48 feet by 24 wide ; the shell of the whole
spreads over a large tract, (of which part is con-
verted to a farm,) with a character" speaking it
to have been founded in the Norman aera.

In the reign of Henry III. Maud, the widow
of the earl of Glocester and Hereford, had the
castle and manor of Usk assigned to her as a
dower; in 1314, when the last earl of the Clare
line died, the castle was conveyed by Elizabeth
his sister, to her husband John de Burgh ; their
grand daughter Elizabeth was married to the duke
of Clarence, the third son of Edward III ; their
daughter Philippa married Mortimer, the earl

84

of March and Ulster, a lord of Wigmore, Clare,
and Connaught, and marshal of England; he
died at Cork in 1381; his son Roger, who
was born in 1 374 at this castle, went with the
king to Ireland in 1 396, but three years after he
lost his life through his own incautiousness of
being in an habit similar to his opponents; his
eldest son, Edmund, was married to Anne, the
daughter of the earl of Stafford, but as no issue
was left by them, the castle, &c. was inherited
by his nephew, the duke of York, who had two
sons born here, both of whom became kings of
England, viz. Edward IV. and Richard III. ; on
the death of Richard, Henry VII. who married
the daughter of Edward IV. became the propri-
etor: it now belongs to the duke of BEAUFORT,

who has purchased it of lord CLIVE.

"

The ruinous state of the castle is, by the na-
tives, ascribed to Owen Glendour, perhaps the
consequence of the famous battle of Usk, fought
between him and the prince of Wales, A. D.
1405, in which Owen was defeated with the
loss of 150O of his men, and his son taken pri-

85

'soner. Owen Glendour, or Glendwr, was in
much estimation with the Welsh, * who still con-
ceive him worthy of being reverenced, and main-
tain, that his consequence was such as to have
his birth attended with extraordinary prodigies.
HOLLINGSHEAD tells us a singular story, that
at his birth his father's horses were found standing
in a torrent of blood ; and SHAKESPEARE makes
him say of himself, that

" The front of Heaven was full of fiery shapes,
" of bursting cressets — and at my birth,
" the frame and the foundation of the earth
" shaked like a coward.

" At my nativity

" the goats ran from the mountains, and the herds
" were strangely clamorous in the frightened fields.
" • I can call spirits from the vasty deep,

" And teach thee, cousin, to command the devil."

During the reign of Richard II. Owen was in
favor at court, and possessed great influence,
insomuch that Reginald, lord Grey, of Ruthin,
(who was at enmity with him), could not obtain
a desire relating to a portion of land which sepa*

N

rated his estate from that of Owen ; but in the
succeeding reign of Henry IV. Owen was dis-
countenanced, and Reginald procured his claim ;
and on an unsuccessful application to Parliament
upon this business, Glendwr took up arms and
asserted his right to the crown of Wales, as a
lineal descendant from Llewellin. His first enter-
prize was the defeat and capture of his opponent
Reginald, whose estates were consequently pil-
laged. Edmund Mortimer, uncle to the earl of
March (who was heir to the crown at Richard's
death), raised an army to oppose Glendwr, anno
1400, but was taken prisoner, and his army dis-
comfited. The king also went with intention of
giving him battle, but, owing to tempestuous
and singular storms, was under the necessity of
withdrawing his forces. This circumstance was
looked on by the parties, as purposely contrived
by the magic of the Welsh chief, and contributed
to raise his consequence with his adherents.

As Henry was by many deemed an usurper,
Owen was assisted by lord Percy/ the earls of
Worcester and Northumberland; and his captive

87

Mortimer at last joined in the scheme to dethrone
the king; but this project was defeated by the
event of the famous battle of Shrewsbury, in
which contest the prince of Wales (afterwards
Henry V.) was wounded in the face by an arrow,
but, not dispirited, he gallantly continued in the
battle till the victory was acquired by the king's
forces on the 21st of July, 1403.

After this, the royalists being partly sent further
northward, the several castles and posts which
the king had in Wales, were confided to the care
of different persons of known fidelity ; among the
rest we find Usk was entrusted to Sir Edward
Charlton, of Powys,

Glendwr well knowing that Charles VI. king
of France (father-in-law to his late sovereign,
Richard II.) wanted not inclination to avenge his
death, entered into a treaty which was agreed
upon at Lanpardam, in 1404, to assist by an
invasion of England, and the Scots were also in
his favour : he had a defeat in Montgomeryshire,
and from thence retired into Gwent : his next

action was at Craig-y-dortb, where he gave the
earl of Warwick considerable trouble, and it
was with difficulty the earl could prevent the total
devastation of the country. He was unsuccessful
at the battle of Usk, in which he lost 1500 of
his men; and was still more unfortunate at the
battle of Grosmont, where his army of 8000 men,
commanded by his eldest son Griffith, were com-
pletely beaten, Griffith taken prisoner, and his
uncle Tudor killed ; this disaster greatly daunted
the Welsh, who principally in Monmouthshire
and Glamorgan submitted to the king ; and in
order to finish the rebellion, the king personally
guided an army into the Marches, but storms and
tempests frustrated him, so that what SHAKE?
SPEARE put into Glendwr's mouth, appears to
have some foundation in fact —

" Three times hath Henry Boiingbroke made head '
" against my power — thrice, from banks of Wye
** and sandy bottom'd Severn, have I sent
" him bootless home, and weather-beaten back."

, The king of France being insane, the duke of
Orleans, as Regent, fulfilled the engagement to

Glendwr, and furnished him with 12,000 men,
who landed at Milford, headed by Marshal de
Rieux and Aubert de Hugueville; with these
Glendwr acquired fresh vigor, and pushed on
with devastation through Southern Wales unto
Worcester, where the king in person opposed
him at Woodbury-hill, and by preventing supplies
and necessaries from reaching Owen, and other
dexterous manoeuvres, obliged the Frenchmen to
retire into Wales, and finally to return to France.
With the fortune of war, did his former adhe-
rents also forsake him ; and though Glendwr
was not entirely subdued, and frequently com-
mitted devastation, yet in the end he was obliged
to secrete himself amongst the central mountains
and fortresses, particularly Plinlimmon.

To revenge the turbulence of Glendwr, Henry
enacted severe laws against the Welsh in general,
and proceeded in such measures as would ulti-
mately have exterminated the remains of manners
and of men, or have sunk them into the most
degraded abjects: but this malicious intention
was frustrated by the death of the king ; and his

son Henry V. of a more noble and generous dis-
position, sought only to conciliate the people by
measures more likely to ensure success — to par-
don Owen and his followers ; but this scheme
was interrupted by the death of that remarkable
chieftain at his daughter's, where he had long
lived in disguise.

Among the Welsh chiefs, Owen Glendwr is
certainly orte of the most singular, and however
erroneous his views might have been, still we
cannot but wish he had finished his life in a more
respectable manner ; if we consider his peculiar
situation, we mast admire his perseverance ; and
we are told his prudence was equally meritorious :
his character was sufficient to close any engage-
ment; and for enterprise and warlike bravery, he
may rank in the first line : not only in the field
was his bounty extended, but encouragement was
held out to every one in the most liberal manner ;
the Bards were patronized by him, and revived
those innocent means of handing to future
fame the actions of the worthy, or stimulating
ardor in the breast of the warrior by those ani-

mating effusions in which the Bards were so well
skilled.

The Welsh have long been enthusiastic in their
eulogies of this chief, and particularly at Ma-
chynlleth, where in 1402, the States of the Prin-
cipality were assembled, and gave him the crown
of Wales. In the outset of his career he was
nearly assassinated by David Gam, of notoriety ;
but after imprisoning the transgressor for some
time, he magnanimously pardoned him. For 15
years did Owen occupy the attention of Henry
IV. and all the skill and courage of the prince,
who, instead of detesting, seemed to venerate the
prowess of his opponent, and on his accession to
the throne was willing to negotiate with Glendwr,
and eventually to have pardoned him and his ad-
herents, had not the death of the chief prevented
it; The same terms were offered to and accepted
by his son Meredyth ap Owen ; and unanimity
was once more restored to the kingdom.

On leaving Usk, I beg to recommend to the
traveller to pursue the road to Pontypool, which

is not only interesting by its diversity of pic-
turesque scenery, but gratifying by a sight of its
manufactory, for which the place is celebrated.
Having appointed my late guide at Caerleon to
meet me, I returned by that place, as I had en-
trusted him to negotiate the purchase of some
ancient relics ; finding by experience that far more
advantageous terms could thus be made, than
by my own personal application.

Ascending the hill to Christchurch, I was again
requited by that delightful scene, which would .

furnish everlasting entertainment to the eye with-
out being wearied by a tedious sameness : on
pursuing the same road, it receives an additional
charm by the Usk stealing from the Bristol chan-
nel in innumerable windings up to Newport,
whjere it is seen bathing the walls of its castle,

This place was, in the Welsh language, called
Guentluge, and though it is not of large extent,
contains several good houses, principally about the
market-place ; the main street is extremely steep,
and the habitations on one side are considerably

elevated above the road, where the pavement Is
not only rough, but in many respects dangerous,
continuing to St. Woolos church, on the top of
the hill. The town has nothing peculiarly attrac-
tive in its appearance, by streets long, narrow,
and dirty, yet its situation is in every respect
suitable for convenience and traffic ; it is about
three miles from Caerleon, which originally was
the principal resort; but falling into disrepute,
and being higher up the river, the present town
arose from its decay, and is denominated New-
port in contradistinction to the old one. The
rivet from hence to the channel is broad, deep,
and safe; anil with its windings is about seven
miles.

It must of latter years have much increased,
for LELAND describes it as a " town yn mine,"
and mentions three gates as standing, of which
two may now be seen, though none of the walls
that once surrounded it can be discovered ; this
town was in early ages an appendage to the
Lordship of Glamorgan, comprehending all the
Country which lay between the rivers Usk and

Neath; the bridge which has not been com-
pleted much more than a twelvemonth, is a plain
but" neat structure of five arches, and appears to
be strong and durable, which the great tor-
rents that in bad weather discharge themselves
from the mountains into this stream, require it
to be. Coal is remarkably plentiful, and good of
its kind, and yields a considerable source of profit
to the place, from the large quantities exported
to Bristol and many other parts. In addition to
coal, there is a great traffic for bar and pig iron,
and all necessaries, furniture, groceries, &c. are
here imported for the service of the surrounding
country. Two vessels are regular in sailing for
Bristol on Tuesdays, and return Thursdays or
Fridays, and have generally a number of passen-
gers who attend the markets with their various
articles.

Newport is as yet reckoned only a creek of
Cardiff, so that all entries inwards and outwards
are included under that head, but it bids fair to
rival all the neighbouring ports, and to become
a place of some consequence ; as a canal has

been completed for the more ready conveyance of
the coal, iron, &c. from the mountains to the
quays : to persons accustomed to the convenience
of regular quays, Newport will appear contempt-
ible, from the slovenly mode of loading and
unloading upon stages which totter under the
work ; and the vessels are lying on the bank at
once steep and filthy : it is to be hoped the spirit
of enterprize will not rest with the completion
of the canal, but contribute for the convenience
of proper quays and safer births.

In the length of the canal from Cromlech to
the bason at Newport, there is a fall of 624 feet
of water, by 52 locks ; and about three miles
from Newport, a succession of 15 locks each
into the other has a singular appearance, which
causes a rising of 180 feet by the whole. The
expectations of the town for an increasing busi-
ness is so great, that they have it in contem-
plation to make a dram -road from the collieries
and factories up the country to be contiguous
*o the canal, and carried a considerable distance
from the present quays lower down .the river, tp

avoid the tedious windings of the stream and
facilitate expedition, and to insure at all times a
regular supply which might be prevented by the
canal being frozen, or other casual impediments.

From the church yard may be seen an exten-
sive and beautiful prospect, exhibiting most of the
principal mountains in the county ; the Sugar-
Loaf beyond Abergavenny is very conspicuous,
and Twm Barlwm and the Machen Hill shew
their bleak summits : the eye wanders with de-
light over the extensive levels of Wentloog, part
so thickly grouped with trees to resemble a wood,
and rendered interesting by spires peeping above
them, others representing marshes which appear
to have suffered the evils of inundation from the
neighbouring channel, and beyond the Severn to
the high lands of Somersetshire and Glocester-
shire ; in fine and clear weather this solemn repo-
sitory of departed beings will not only afford
suitable reflections, but give an exhibition of as
^beautiful and varied a natural picture as most
eminences ; nor does its peculiarity rest with its
external views, as the interior exhibits fine spe*

cimens of Saxon architecture by its pillars, and
numerous wreathings which richly decorated the
arches.

The church is dedicated to St. Woolos, a
saint of high honor with the early Welsh, and
is reported to be the eldest son of a Dimetian
king in South Wales, and married to a daughter
of a Brecknockshire prince, by whom he had St.
Kenna and the great St. Cadoc, founder of Llan-
carvan: for some time previous to his death ho
was exemplary in retirement, and rigorous in
manner ; his clothing was sackcloth, his food
barley bread strewed with ashes, and his drink
water; he rose to prayer at midnight, and sub~
sisted by the labour of his hands ; he died near
the end of the fifth century, glorified by mi-
racles*.

When the church was originally founded is
uncertain, but the Saxon and Norman work-
manship so plainly perceivable convince us oj

• Lives of the Saints,

early date, but the tower was added to it by
Henry III. in gratitude for signal services he
received from the inhabitants, and the earl of
Glocester (who was the possessor of the cas-
tle), in opposition to the rebels under the earl of
Leicester ; his statue was placed in the front,
where it still is to be seen headless, having been
thus mutilated by Cromwell's soldiers.

/

There is a tradition of a stream in the neigh-
bourhood of Newport called Nant-Kentham, dis-
tinguished by the advantage king Henry II.
derived from his freckled face when passing over
it; it having been foretold by Merlin Sylvester
that they should be conquered by a prince so
marked by nature, and who would pass that ford ;
on this the Welsh submitted without offering
the least resistance, judging that opposition would
be violating the sacred tie which they ever felt
themselves bound to, by the prophecies of old.

At one end of the bridge stand the remains of
the ancient castle, erected by Martin, lord of

100

I

' t

Cemais, and strengthened by the earl of Gloces-
ter and Bristol ; excepting one part at the farthest
end (which is inhabited by a poor family), the
whole is now in ruins, and only serves as a
safe retreat for those birds which seek for an
undisturbed haunt,

It has been a strong building, though not very
large, one side has its foot standing in the river,
where it "had an entrance under an arch guarded
by a portcullis ; over this was the principal room
roofed with stone, and an octagon tower flanked
the whole : the other three sides had a deep moat
surrounding them of not less than 20 yards over;
many parts of the building shewing the gothic
style, and indicating it to have had additions dur-
ing the Norman age, and in the several disturb*
ances from the surrounding Welsh, was very
serviceable to check their progress, or in whosever
hands it was, to give a temporary security. Not
far from it was an institution for Friar Preachers,
and the house was granted by Henry VIII. in the
35th year of his reign, to Sir Edward Cam.

101

Maud, the eldest daughter of Robert Fitz-
hamon, among other possessions granted Newport
to her husband, Robert earl of Glocester and
Bristol, who by his skill in arms was the means
of placing his nephew, Henry II. on the throne :
there are undoubted proofs that previous to his
time the castle was erected, and strongly garri-
soned ; at his death it became the property of
the earl of Hertford by marriage : in 1313 it was,
with the town, given to Margaret, who married
Hugh de Audley, but her sister having married
the renowned favourite of Edward II. Plugh le
Despenser, she was obliged to surrender this part
of her property, and he procured the inhabitants
a charter of considerable privilege : on the down-
fall of that haughty minion, it was returned to
De Audley, whose daughter marrying the earl
of Stafford, a person greatly respected by Edward
III. who, for eminent services performed at the
celebrated battle of Cressy, was created earl of
Hereford, (and it is worthy of remark, that New-
port and Netherwent furnished sixty men with
lances in that important conflict) j his descendants

102

\

enjoyed the same until Edward, the third duke
of Buckingham, was executed by order of Henry
VIII. who seized it and sold the castle to the
Herberts, of St. Julian's, from whom it descended
to the Powis' family ; it was afterwards purchased
by Charles Van, Esq. of Lanwerne, but the
castle is now in two distinct properties ; the tower
near the bridge and the manor of Newport are
the property of the marquis of Worcester, and
the remainder belongs to William Keymeys, Esq.
of Mayndee.

Pursuing the left-hand road from St. Woolos
church, Cardiff presents itself at the extremity of
an exceeding pleasing and interesting ride of
twelve miles. Between the third and fourth mile-
stone, passing over the wooden-piered bridge that
crosses the river Ebwy, an elegant mansion is
observed : the grounds and plantations about it
are extensive, and remarkably varied in the beauty
of their scenery. The park, which is well stocked
with deer, rises with graceful ascent, until it breaks
into numerous eminences, pleasingly capped with
fine timber, shading vestiges of ancient warfare,

103

*

intermixed with hanging woods, bewildering the
eye in every fanciful pleasing variety.

A mountain stream meandering through the
vale, and contributes to adorn the mansion by
supplying the canal that flows near it.

Approaching an aged man who was at work on
the road, whose appearance carried evidences of
information, with manners softened by a former
more elevated sphere of life, induced me to en-
quire of him the name of the place and proprietor :
the sensations of his mind urged the hasty reply
of, " Tredegar, the seat of Sir CHARLES MORGAN,
" Bart." nor could he desist from making a
declaration in his benefactor's praise, with a
warmth that bespoke a flame of gratitude was
kindled in his heart, which could only be extin-
guished by the close of his life. On my asking
him if the house was not damp from the lowness
of its situation, being so near the canal, his ani-
mation in an instant fled, and sorrowfully leaning
on his spade, made no reply, but appeared lost in
contemplation, or pensively reviewing the bounties

104

of its possessor : anxious to know the cause of this
change, but unwilling to disturb the meditation of
his mind, at length repeated the question ; he pre-
served the same posture, with shaking his head,
and after a lengthened pause, exclaimed the cruel
prophecy, and said it had been foretold, Ruperra*
would become a victim to the flames, and that
Tredegar would find a watery grave, by being
undermined by subterraneous springs : the former,
added he, has been verified ; and directing his
eyes to the latter, they became too much daz-
zled by the rhetoric of his sensibility and grati-
tude to make any observation on it ; but his
tongue expressed its fears that such a fatality
should happen, by which he should be denied
offering those blessings to its possessor, which
were the constant and only tribute he could pay
for his beneficence.

Every eminence on this road unfolds an
enlarged map of ocean, and a more extensive
prospect of the level of Wentloog.

* Another house belonging to Sir CHARLES MORC AN, Bart.

105

The churches of Peterstone, St. Bride's, Marsh-
field, &c. with numerous white cottages, enliven
and embellish the view ; and the broad sheet, of
water as far as the eye can reach, seldom is with-
out vessels of all descriptions gliding over it.

At five miles and a half is Castletown, a small
but neat village ; at seven and half, St. Melon's ;
and at the distance of three from Cardiff, we
cross the bridge over the Romney, whose wind-
ing course divides the counties of Monmolith
and Glamorgan. Of this bridge, the dilapidated
state is sufficient to create fears in the timid
breast, sufficient to render it an object of repar-
ation, and sufficient inducement to any public
spirit to enforce the Act of Parliament.

The entrance to the town of Cardiff is better
and more pleasing than is customary with old
towns. The building on the right assumes
the air of monastic ruins, and has been
the habitation of white friars. A considerable
portion of the old walls are remaining, and
also those which were added for the greater

106

strength and convenience of merlons or battle-
ments, in the troublesome time of Charles I.
Its shape was nearly square, and there seem to
have been towers at each angle of the wall ; a
great part of Cock's Tower is now standing,
beautifully arrayed in a rich drapery of ivy;
the whole was surrounded by a deep ditch, part
of which now is appropriated to the, purposes
of the canal.

The town itself is clean, well provided, and
convenient, tolerably well built, and pleasantly
situated in a flat fertile country. The town-hall
has a respectable appearance when viewed on the
front, and the broad open street facing, is where
the markets are held on Wednesdays and Satur-
days, when every article in season may be abun-
dantly procured, and tolerably reasonable.

Cardiff appears to be rising fast into conse-
quence as a maritime port, from its canal, which
is judiciously planned and well completed ; the
bason (as it is called) although not wider than
would conveniently accommodate three large ships

107

abreast, yet from its length and depth, is capable
of containing some hundreds, it being upwards
of a mile in length, and increasing in width to-
wards the sea-lock. Vessels come up close to
the town to take or discharge their cargoes, with-
out any regard to size or burthen, and are always
afloat, to the great advantage of the merchant,
and benefit of the place : the entrance chamber
to it from the sea is sufficiently deep for the
largest man of war, being carried down to the
bed of the river (for the canal is considerably
above the Taffe).

The whole length of the canal from Mer-
thyr Tydfil is rather more than 25 miles, and
the fall of water, from its head to the sea-lock,
is 568 feet, five inches ; its course almost sur-
rounds the town, for, after leaving the bason,
it is continued in the direction of the walls till it
passes near the new bridge, and then follows
pretty nearly the course of the Taffe : although
it is not more than four feet deep at most, the
barges carry from 15 to 20 tons, and one horse
is generally found sufficient to haul them.

108

The walks, in fine weather, on the sides of the
bason, are very pleasant, and present delightful
prospects ; and the high promontory, or head-
land before you, is called Pen-narth : the church
on the extreme top serves as a sea-mark ; and the
two islands directly in sight are the flat and steep
Holmes : the flat, though apparently near you,
is not less than nine miles distant — and between
the two are three miles more. Should (which is
often the case) a number of vessels be at anchor,
waiting for a wind, the scene is truly grand ; but
at all times vessels are moving in some direction
or other.

The river Tafle has amazingly altered its course
of late years, and has approached the walls of the
town : there are many persons who remember
that the utmost strength of a man could not
throw a stone from St. Mary's church yard into
the river ; yet such has been the fury of the
stream, when swelled by mountain freshes, and
the many water-courses which fall into it, that
nearly the whole church yard is washed away, and
discloses the graves of the buried ; and bones of

every description are visibly sticking about the
bank: this must be viewed with regret, to
observe the little attention paid by the living;
a sacred charge due to the ashes of the dead.
The foundations of several houses have been
destroyed, and unless precautions are taken to
preserve those now adjoining, they will, in all
probability, share the like destruction. St. Mary's
church, and many dwellings, were swept away by
an uncommon and dreadfully destructive rise of
the tide in the channel, in the year 1607, and
have not since been rebuilt ; so that although
Cardiff has two parishes, there is but one church,
called St. John's, a neat structure, having not an
inelegant tower, which, though plain in itself, is
well set off by the lightness and beauty of the
pinnacles and battlements.

Cardiff was originally known by the name of
Rhatostabius Ostium ; and on the invasion of
Britain by the Romans, their general, Aulus
Didius, raised a fort, and garrisoned it, to keep
the Silures in awe. From this circumstance the

4

Q.

110

Cambro Britons gave it the name of Caer-did1
It next had its name from its situation on tha
TafFe, and was called Caer-tafFe, CaerdafF, or
CaerdifF; from whence it has corrupted to Cardiff.
The date of its founding is said to have been in
J080, but it certainly must have been consider-
ably earlier, from what is above related ; and if
reliance is to be placed on the Liber Landavensis
now in LandafF Cathedral, it will be found that
Meurich, king of Glamorgan (the father of the
famous Arthur) was a native of CardifF.
I

That, however, the town is ancient, and has
been of moment to several monarchies, the castle
rind its appendages fully evince? and Justin ap

f ^

<^nrgan was the last Welsh prince who occupied
it. It was rebuilt in the style and strength of a
Norman fortress, by Robert earl of Glocester, in
the reign of Henry I. In 1 101, when the Mont-
gomery family was in rebellion, headed by llv-
carls of Shrewsbury and Pembroke, several occu-
piers of fortresses in the marches joined, and were
suppressed by the above-named monarch ; and
the territory of CardifF*Avas given to Cadvvgan,

ill

but subject to Robert de Belmarsb, bisbop of
London, who was a warden of the marches.* In.
111O, Robert Fitzhamon, after his conquest of
Glamorganshire, divided the country among his
twelve Norman knights, but reserved Cardiff to
himself, which he enlarged and strengthened
for his residence. It was soon after taken by
one Ivor Bach, a Briton, who dwelt in the moun*
tains: having marched here privately with his
party in the night, he suddenly surprised the
castle and carried away the earl of Glocester,
(a grandson of Fitzhamon), with his wife and son,
and detained them until he had received satis-
faction for some injuries done him. In 1131,
it was taken by Llewellyn's forces, under Mel-
colm and Rhys, and in 1233 by the earl of
Pembroke for Hjenry III.

As the castle, &c, declared for Charles I. it

v;as besieged by Oliver Cromwell in person, and,

i

through the treachery of a deserter, it surrendered
to him, but the rascal on applying for his reward,
frund Oliver sensible of the deserts due to a

• Welsh Chronicle,

112

dastard who Abandons his cause; and though he
benefited by the act, ordered him to be immer
diately hanged. The subterraneous passage into
the garrison, by which this was effected, went
under the Taffe, and a short time since, on
the proprietor of the Inn called the Cardiff
Arms,repairing or enlarging the cellar, the
workmen fell into what is supposed to have
been part of it.

«•
It is not easy to form a correct idea of the

original shape and figure of the main castle, since
k has undergone considerable alteration, with an
intent to make it a fashionable residence, but the
additions are so little in unison with the old build-
ing, that its characteristic grandeur is lost in the
design ; the present heir to it being a minor, all
reparation and improvements have been stopped
until he shall be of age; and as the workmen left
their labor, so to this moment it remains, all in
dirt and confusion.

There are several pictures, but chiefly con-
sisting of family portraits of the Windsor's, and

113

the unions by matrimonial alliances to the Mount-
stewart's ; they are principally painted by Van-
dyke, Kneller, and Dahl ; there is one in the
break&st parlour displays the powerful effect of
light and shadow on the armour, so eminently
distinguished by the former artist's pencil, and
in the drawing-room are whole lengths of the
marquis and marchioness of Bute, in which
Romney has very happily harmonized his bold-
ness of colouring, by uniting great affability
with high dignity ; there is also* a piece repre-
senting the inside of the keep, painted by Ibbet-
son, which has claim to merit : in one of the
rooms are shown three balls thrown by Cromwell's
ordnance, two of them iron, the other stone, of
about eighteen pounds weight; two were found
jn the keep, and the other on the green.

At one corner of the green, on an high mound
of earth, are the remains of the keep, which is
peculiarly attractive on passing the entrance gate ;
this building is of eleven sides, excluding the cen-
tre tower, which is octagon, and thick enough to

114

have a stair-case and communications with upper"
apartments for observation and conveniencies, the
walls are said to be continued to the bottom of
the mound, and are so extremely hard ia the
cement, more difficult to divide, than the stones,
which are of all sizes : of this tower, it was the
intention of the late marquis to have made a

115

large and -elegant single room, with copper roof,
gnd sky-light ; the whole to have been well
finished and fitted up.

An entrance tower to the castle still remain?,
iut whatever we may admire in its structure, its
i list ory chills our approbation, and casts a sorrowful
gloom on the mind; it is called the black tower, 9

name most consonant to the inhuman stain it has
endured, and which time can never wipe away,
where, in a room barely 15 feet square, rather
iinder ground, and with only a small crevice near
the roof, was the unfortunate Robert, the eldest
son of William the Conqueror, unjustly and cru-
elly confined for 26 years, by the power of his
unnatural brother, Henry I. and it has been said,
with every degree of severity, in addition to im-
prisonment.

Historians have endeavoured to mitigate the
rigor of his imprisonment, and it has even been
asserted by one, to be utterly impossible for any
human being to have existed in the dungeon a
twelvemonth ; therefore, suppose him to have
enjoyed the whole range of the building. Lord
JLyttleton, quoting the authorities of Odo Vitalis,
and William of Malmesbury, says, " Henry made
" his imprisonment as easy to him as possible,
" furnishing him with an elegant table, and
" buffoons to divert him ; pleasures which for
'• some years he had preferred to all the duties

117

" of sovereign power." Others relate, that on
attempting to escape, the prince was blinded, by
holding a hot brass bason so near his eyes, that
the humours were dried up, and the optic nerves
destroyed. Mathew Paris thus relates the cause
of his death :

ft

" It happened on a feast-day, that king Henry trying on a scarlet robe,

" the hood of which being too streight, in essaying to put it on he tore one

" of the stitches, whereupon he desired one of his attendants to carry it to

" his brother, whose head was smaller; it having always been his custom,

" whenever he had a new iobe, to send one cut off from the same cloth to

" his brother, with a polite message. This garment being delivered to

" Robert, in putting it on he felt the fraction where the stitch had been

" broken, and through the negligence of the taylor not mended ; on asking

" how that place came torn, he was told it was done by his brother, and

" the whole story was related to him ; whereupon falling into a violent

" passion, he thus exclaimed: ' alas! alas ! I have lived too long ! behold

' my younger brother, a lazy clerk, who has supplanted me in my king-

' dom, imprisoned, and blinded me ! I who have been so famous in arms ! !

' and now, not content with these injuries, he insults me as if I were a

* beggar, sending me his cast-off clothes, as for alms !' from that time

" he refused to take any nourishment, and miserably weeping and la-

" menting, starved himself to death : he was buried in Glocester cathedral,

" where his image as big as life, carved in Irish oak, and painted, is

'* yet shewn."

Contiguous is the guard room, where the eye
of watchfulness was never closed, and above were

R

118

the apartments for attendants, store rooms, and
observations : from this tower, to the keep on
the mound, was a strong and thick wall, which,
on pulling down, and destroying the foundation,
was at the bottom discovered to have had a secret
passage along the middle of it, with flood-hatches
and drop-gates : supposed to have been a way
for sallying, or procuring forage. The whole of
the surrounding walls and battlements have been
repaired, and the walks are kept in clean order,
and afford to the inhabitants of Cardiff an ex-
cellent promenade, exhibiting a beautiful and
diversified view in every direction; and from
the eminence at one corner, a rich and charm-
ing scene of the channel and surrounding coun-
try is presented; the walks are open, and at all
hours free to any one.

Caerphitty is from Cardiff rather more than
seven miles; at two from whence you keep to
the right through newly-enclosed grounds, and
on ascending Thorn Hill, a beautiful view of the
country you have passed and a wide extended
landscape, with an expanse of water, enrich the

119

\

picture. The most remarkable peculiarity of
Wales is the universal practice of whitening all
their houses, nor is there any difference in this
respect between the villa and the cottage : hence
arises that lively sensation we experience in
viewing any extent of prospect, and the neat
display of the natural beauty of the country.

In a fine clear morning, Cardiff appears to
more advantage from hence, than elsewhere ; and
the castle, with its ivy'd walls, forms an inter-
esting object. LandafF also contributes to
embellish the scene, and the circumstance of
the houses being exalted above the cathedral, is
not only observable but a pleasing contrast.

Proceeding onward, the fancy is led to sup-
pose itself enclosed by mountains, (which is the
fact in some degree) from whence occasional op-
portunities occur from partial openings, of sur-
veying splendid nature, gladdened by the gifts of
Providence in every animated form ; nor are these
huge ridges which I was passing, useless to man-
kind ; for their bowels are stored with treasure,

•

-

. I

120

and industry was exerting her efforts to attain
it ; the collieries around were giving up the
stores to numerous applicants, and rendered this
(otherwise lonely) tract lively and amusing. After
ascending two or three more hills, Caerphilly's
ponderous remains appear in the bottom, and its
dark colour, strongly contrasted with the adjoin-
ing white dwellings, causes sensations of delight,
but more of astonishment.

It is almost unaccountable, that a fortress, which
for size, strength, and compactness, whose ruins
even now discover it to have had elegance united
with utility, and no doubt can be entertained but
it has borne the brunt of many a storm, and a
great share in the broils and troubles of the prin-
cipality, as well as the affairs of the kingdom in
general, should have so few records of its events,
or who were its possessors ; in this we are embar-
rassed by difficulty, and perplexed by uncertainty,
and the inquisitive beholder cannot but be aston-
ished at the little information to be obtained of
the remains of a pile he cannot look on without
surprise, nor contemplate without awe. It has

121

been thought to have derived its origin from the
Britons, and afterwards to have been used as a
garrison by the Romans ; founded by Beli Gawr,
a king of Britain, and brother to the Gaulish
general Brennus, near 400 years previous to the
birth of Christ ; but all this conjecture must be
vague and undeterminate, for no history can fur-
nish any real information of its founder, or the
time of its founding : there have been stories in
circulation of its having been possessed by Julius
Caesar, and also that he caused it to be the resi-
dence of his daughter, to preserve her morals
from being contaminated by the ill examples of
his wife, but a slight consideration will confute
any such relation ; for it is well known, that
Julius was never in this part of the country,
nor were the Welsh ever subdued till Ostorius's
time, nor in complete subjection until Agricola ;
therefore it is highly improbable that Julius
Caesar should trust his daughter in an enemy's
country, and such inveterate ones as the Welsh
were. It has borne various turns of fortune,
according to the success or defeat of the parties
engaged, and ere gunpowder was invented, must

122

have easily withstood the shocks of warfare for
ages., and, while provisions could be kept within,
would render abortive all attacks without. When
possessed by the turbulent Welsh, it was a con-
siderable impediment to the British, and as often
as it could by them be obtained, was held as a
check on the Cambrians.

The whole building, and erections belonging,
is said to have been two miles in circumference,
with thirteen draw-bridges, where indications of
them may be observed on the north and west,
and a wall with inverted arches is peculiarly
attractive. A round tower was at each angle,
and the one at N. N. W. point is singularly beau-
tiful, and demands particular attention for its
deep incrustation of ivy, and being separated
down the middle, where it exhibits the four sto~
ries which communicated by galleries.
.

The grand hall was 70 feet by 30, and 17 feet
in height, supported by 20 arches; two noble
windows from the ground reached the cieling
of the room, ornamented with leaves and husks,

123
i

with fruit like balls; the fire-place is near nine
feet wide, and high in proportion ; on one side
of this hall are seven clusters of round pillars,
and each cluster has three busts to support them :
at the east end are door-ways eight feet high,
leading to a yard of 70 yards by 40, and nearly
in the middle was a well. The whole of the inte-
rior buildings was surrounded by a wall of con-
siderable height, and remarkable thickness, with
buttresses and square towers, all connected by a
gallery, and above it was a walk, and a secret
communication contrived within a wall, where
only one person could go abreast : at the eastern
end is the gateway, which contains three grooves
for portcullises ; the mill was between the outer
wall and the moat, and on the west side of the
stairs is a low round place called the mint house,
supported by three pointed arches.

Of the whole ruins, extensive and cumbrous
as they are, there is no part so truly remarkable
as the leaning tower ; when we contemplate its
wonderful situation, or by what means it became
so, it makes the mind lose itself in discussing-,

and fluctuate in conjecture, as the top reclines

eleven feet and a half over the base : the apparent
weakness of its support, and that so mutilated,
with the menacing attitude it assumes, threaten-
ing immediate destruction to whoever should ap-
proach it, render it an object of inconceiveable
interest, and is allowed nearly, if not equally, as
great a curiosity as the celebrated leaning tower
of Pisa, in Italy : this extraordinary object is
divided into two separate parts, from the top
nearly to the middle, in such manner that each

125

• *

side hangs over, and the fissure is so wide, that
I walked easily through it. Having been informed
that the best mode of observing the effect of this
astonishing pile was to lay flat on the back close
to its base, I was induced to try, and it surpassed
my expectation in grandeur and delight, until
terror interrupted, and prompted me to rise in
much less time than was taken to place myself
in the position, nor did I recover the sensation,
until I was well out of its reach.

In the opinion of several persons of judgment,
who have compared it with other castles, this
fortress is supposed to have been the largest in
the kingdom, excepting Windsor, and from its
vast magnitude and admirable structure, has been
affirmed by many to have been a Roman gar-
rison : that there might have been a castle on
the spot is not unlikely, but there are no marks
remaining, nor have coins or other articles been
found to ascertain the certainty ; it may be re-
marked, that on all places known to be Roman,
numberless fragments of their labour were accus-
tomed to be stamped with some peculiar mark to

s

126

denote the constructor, nor were medals ever
omitted to be strewed or deposited by them ; but
nothing of this kind, nor even the smallest ves-
tige of an implement or utensil has been hitherto
found, belonging to that nation. I shall not enter-
so deeply into the subject as to controvert the
different opinions of others, or substitute ideas
of my own : the ruins themselves will declare an
early time, whether considered as the remains of
the original, or the splendid addition to an older
fabric. The earliest accounts I could find, began
with Gryffyth ap Ivor ap Meurig, lord of Seng-
hennyth (the present Caerphilly) ; he was one of
the chiefs who attended Henry II. in council, to
restore peace in the Marches. In the reign of
John, when Llewellyn had caused a revolt, and
was excommunicated by the Pope, he endeavoured
to retain the interest of Reginald de Bruce, by
giving his daughter into the family, and assigning
to her husband the important fortress of Seng-
benayth, now Caerphilly.
'

When Henry III. 'ascended the throne, Regi-
nald de Bruce returned to his allegiance, and

_ Llewellyn immediately assaulted Brecknock, the
principal town of his lordship ; but by artful con-
trivance and dissimulation, Reginald persuaded
Llewellyn to raise the siege of Brecknock,
and restore to his family Senghennyth, or
Caerphilly,

•

Some historians relate, that when the barons-
and the king made peace, the Welsh princes were
excluded, and afterwards perfidiously turned their
arms against them ; the earl of Pembroke violently
acted in this underhand business, and made dread-
ful devastation in the Marches, but Rhys Vychan
besieged, took, and destroyed the important for-
tress of Caerphilly, which had an English garrison,
and also other fortresses ; in fine, he compelled the
enemy to retreat, and regulated the Cambrians so
us to defend their territories.

;

Caerphilly became under the influence of the
earr of Clare, by marrying his daughter to Rhys
Gryg, a chieftain of great consequence, who
chiefly resided there as the principal barrier of
Cambria, since the destruction of Caerleon, and

128

from the stations of Red Castle, Thornhill, and
Tyn Barlwn, was strongly secured.

After the death of Llewellyn, and the con-
quest of Wales by Edward I. Rhys submitted
to the English power; and Caerphilly, or Seng-
hennyth, with all the hill fortresses, were deli-
vered up to the earl of Glocester : Edward
afterward visited the various fortresses, and
particularly ordered Cardiff and Caerphilly to
be repaired, strengthened, and beautified,

In the unfortunate reign of Edward II. the
Spencers having become the favourites of the
monarch ; the king, the queen, and the barons
were at variance, and commotions were the
consequence ; Hugolin Spencer was for a long
time besieged in Caerphilly castle, which at
length surrendered to the queen, and the
infamous Mortimer.

In Glendwr's rebellion, Henry IV. confided
the castle of Caerphilly to Constantia, lady
Despenser; this lady was afterwards concerne4

129

in the plot of endeavouring to raise her brother,
the duke of York, to the throne, and is said
to have concerted measures with Glendwr, who
was to have taken charge of the earl of March,
and the duke, if she could effect their escape
from captivity at Windsor ; she did procure their
release, but, on their way to Caerphilly, were,
with herself, retaken ; however, she obtained a
pardon, and was reinstated at this fortress,

While I was rambling over this interesting
pile, and prying with delight into every part
accessible to the foot of inquisitive research, a
person of the place approached, who, after the
usual salutations, soon betrayed his province
was to instruct, and though it was youth,
still, information from a man of letters could
not be refused; nor can I deny myself the
satisfaction of verbally detailing what contained
so much national preference : ' This castle,
' Sir, is the oldest in the kingdom, and cer-

* tainly the most respectable, for elegance,

* extent, and fame in history; various have

* been the opinions of its etymology, but this,

130

*' Sir, may : be depended upon; on Julius Cae-

* sar making an attack on this fabric, he
6 found it irresistible, and impossible to acquire
f it by dint of scientific warfare, he therefore
1 sought other means, and offered terms of
f capitulation to its brave defenders, which
f was conditionally agreed to, but the Welsh
' regarding the loss of their native language
' more than the loss of the castle, consented
' to its surrender, provided the name whereby

* it was in future to be called, should be

* half in Welsh and half in the language of
' its conqueror, but, with a reserved prece-

* dence of applying the first word to it ;
f this being assented to, the Welsh named
f Cae?'3 signifying a castle ; and Julius Cassar,
c desirous of making it the residence of his
' daughter, in compliment to her, named it

* Jilia* However improbable was the story,
the gravity with which it was told would have
induced the smile which had been collecting
in the detail, to have burst into a laugh,
had not the fear of distressing the feelings
of another forbidden it. -. *

131

At length I was warned to depart, by the
sun taking its diurnal farewell, and retiring
behind the mountains, leaving only the tinges
of its golden rays to signify the approach of
eve, and threaten to fold me in its ebon
shade : thus was. reluctantly compelled to has-
ten by the road I came in the morning, to
place myself under the comfortable roof of
Mrs. THOMAS, at the Cardiff Arms, an Inn
possessing more attention and real comfort
than any other place of public accommodation
I ever met with.
/

The dazzling majesty of the morning sun
peeping in my window, not only tempted
me to rise, and reproached my slumbers, but
induced me to take an earlier farewell of my
hostess than I otherwise intended.
.

Pursuing the road over a neat bridge of five
arches, and taking the first turning on the
right hand, at the distance of two miles reached
LandafF; a large forsaken mansion on the right
throtvs a gloom on the fancy, by exhibiting

132

the sorrowful representation of grandeur in dis-
guise, but on the left the country assumes a
distinguished contrast, by the decorations of
the hills, where patches of firs are so taste-
fully disposed, as to convey the characters of
elegance and prosperity ; the ivy-mantled walls
of the episcopal castle, desolated, and in ruins,
now approaches to view, and gives a pleasing,
though mournful effect ; particularly the strik-
ing remnant of its large window.
\

Urbanus the 30th, bishop of the see, in
11 2O, is supposed to have been the founder, at
the same time he greatly enlarged the church ;
but of this, no other authority is stated than
what might be grounded from a relation of
bishop Godwin's, in respect of LandafF; " the
" archbishop (of Canterbury), the rather to
<c draw on the liberality of men in contributing
" toward the building of the church, took upon
'•' him to release a fourth part of all penance
" inflicted, unto such as should bestow any
'c thing towards the same; by this means (no
ic doubt) having gathered great summes of mo-

133

Cf

ney, he began the building of that church,
" which now standeth, April 14th, 1120, and
" having finished it, built anew also all the
" houses belonging to it ;" from whence it
may be presumed, the palace was included :
and Mr. WOOTTON, who is extremely copious
in his account, also particularly says, that
Urban built anew all the houses belonging to
the church, " for himself and canons," and
describes the demolition as follows : " the
" bishop's castle stood, before it was demolished,
" south-east of the church : it was heretofore
" a very stately building, if we may judge by
" the gate-house, which is still remaining.
" It was destroyed by Owen Glendwr, (or
(e Glyndwrdwy) who made great devastation
(l in this county, as well as in North Wales,
" when he rose in arms against Henry IV.
" there is a very high, thick, stone wall still
" standing, which, probably, enclosed the cas*
" tie, and the outhouses that belonged to it:
" the scite of the castle is now turned into
" a garden, which now belongs to THOMAS

134

" MATTHEW, Esq. of the court of LandafF,
fc (a house so called just adjoining) who is
" tenant to a descendant of the house of
" Arader, in Ireland ; which family have been
<e in possession of that which was once the
" episcopal house, and the grounds thereunto
(e adjoining, for some ages.'' There are no
accounts that it was ever rebuilt since that
destruction, and Godwin, so long back as
1601, said, " that the episcopal palace at Ma-
ff therne, (vide page 11) was the only house
" left for the bishop to put his head in."

Descending a steep declivity, into a quiet
and peaceful vale, came to the interesting and
beautiful remains of its ecclesiastical pile :

— the pious work

" of names once famed, now dubious or forgot,
" and partly buried midst the wreck of things.'*

The embellishments bring to light much his-
tory of its ancient fame, and the pleasure in
beholding a religious pile, though even in ruins,
cannot but inspire the mind to the most

135

moral reflections, and awaken sentiments of
eerious awe :

The best concerted schemes men lay for fame
die fast away

Oh ! lamentable sight ! at once

the labour of whole ages, lumber down
a hideous and mis-shapen length of ruins.
Sepulchral columns wrestle but in vain
with all-subduing time.

A finer remnant of Saxon architecture can

136

no where be seen than in the south entrance,
demanding attention not only for bespeaking
the sera of construction, the elegance of
orders, and the graceful decorations of ivy
planted by the hand of nature. On the north
is a similar entrance, but divested of those
pleasing vernal appendages, and all the walls
unite ornamented neatness to solidity of ma-
sonry. The western entrance particularly

137

»

claimed my attention, by the -rich display of
beautiful gothic, in all the tastiness of its con-
struction; the mouldings of the arches, and
light stone pillars, which once constituted the
division of its windows, were beautifully en-
twined by ivy in every fanciful direction, and
variety of unstudied elegance : over a lajge
door, in the centre of this structure, is the
representation of a bishop in his pontifical habit,
which, by some, has been supposed to be
Urban, who lived in the reign of Henry I.
and built the church, but is considered by the
best-informed, to be intended for St. Dubritius,
who was the first bishop of the see. Over the
door are three long windows, the centre twenty
feet high and four feet broad, and those on
each side are sixteen by three; above them are
seven niches, the middle being the longest, and
the only open one ; the remainder diminishing
in regular lengths: above them in a recess, is
a statue, considered to be designed for Henry
I. the reigning prince, and the whole capped
with an ornamental cross. This front was sup-
ported by a tower at each end ; the one (now

138

only left in the record of 'history) was called
the old tower, and taken down in consequence
of great damage it sustained by a storm in
1703; it contained one large bell, which was
exchanged at Exeter for five smaller ones, and
were hang in the present to\ver.

The tower on the north side was also taken
down, and supplied by the present edifice, built
by Jasper, duke of Bedford, in the reign of
Henry VII. and retains the name of that noble-
man : it had pinnacles and battlements, which,
were destrpyed by a storm,

On descending a few steps from the west,
the area of the building, not occupied by the
modern edifice, was strewed with the elegant
fragments of pillars, and its walls pleasingly
diversified with spontaneous shrubs ; it is now
without any sepulchral records ; and two effi-
gies in alabaster, which display much ability of
the artist, (supposed to be Italians, patronized
by King Henry VIII.) are removed from thence,
and placed erect in the old chapter room.

139

Here I must beg leave to break off, > and
seriously lament that the history of LandafF
is so difficult of access; and indeed only to be
found in that now very scarce and almost out-
of-print record, compiled by Mr. Browne
Willis. Fearful of it being totally lost, and
desirous of restoring the interesting circum-
stance of the remains of those which are
deposited, with many observations totally ob-
scured, to the remembrance or tradition of
the place ; with this intent I shall avail my-
self of that gentleman's known genius and
authority, by adding it as an appendix, trust-
ing the interesting extract will be rewarded
by the approbation of my reader: but, previous
to entering the present structure, I shall give
what little account I could collect of the
original edifice.

Of the antiquity of the church, it is re-
ported to have been first built by king Lucius,
about the year of Christ, 180, though no
account of bishops previous to St. Dubritius;

140

and indeed it is probable he had no predeces-
sors, because the memory of his successors is
so carefully preserved, and the chronology of
the early times are very uncertain, insomuch
that several accounts contradict each other ;
some fixing Dubritius to have been instated
to the see by St. Germanus and St. Lupus,
two French bishops, in 436, who came over
to extinguish the Pelagian heresy, and consti-
tuted him metropolitan of all these parts, of
which he sometimes sat at Caerleon, and some-
times at LandafF. Others inform us, he was
not appointed metropolitan till the year 4QO, at
which time he was preferred from LandafF, .to
succeed Threminius in that dignity at Caer-
leon, by the nomination of Aurelius Ambrosius,
one of the last British Kings; and being in
possession" of both these sees, he held them in
commendam till the year 512, and then re-
signed LandafF to his disciple, St. Teleiau, who
had been instructed by him, together with St.
David, at a place called Kentland, near Ross,
in Herefordshire.

141

St. Dubritius is reported to have lived to a
great age, and to have been a bishop above 8O
years, and that in 51Q having resigned his
archbishopric of Caerleon to St. David, he re-
tired from the world, and after some years
spent in solitude, departed this life at an
island called Enlhie, (now Bardsey) on the coast
of Caernarvonshire, November 14, 522, from
whence his bones were translated to LandafF,
by Urban, the 30th bishop of this see, May 7,
1120, and laid before the high altar.

During the times of the three first bishops,
so much riches had been bestowed on this see,
that if it now enjoyed the tenth part of that
which it has been endowed with, it would be
one of the wealthiest churches in Christendom;
though now it is said to be barely sufficient to
repair itself, and that divers benefices in the
diocese yield more profit to their incumbents,
than the present bishop receives.

When Urban was consecrated, he found his
bishopric in a very poor and miserable condi-

u

142

• . -' •/ * "'•

tion ; the church ruined, and almost to the
ground, the revenues so confiscated, that out
of 24 canons, they could scarcely maintain
two ; wherefore, explaining to the king and
pope, he obtained a remedy, by procuring
letters to the clergy and gentry of the king-
dom, and thus gathered great sums ; he pulled
down the old church, which was but 28 feet
long, 15 broad, and 2O in heighth, and began
in 1 1 20, the fabric (of which part of the ruins
now remains), and dedicated it to St. Peter, St.
Dubritius, St. Teleiau, and St. Oudoceus; a
work truly magnificent, and to be remembered
with honour by posterity ; and in addition to
this magnificence, built also the houses for him-
self and canons ; after which he proceeded to
recover the lands which had been alienated from
the see, and the jurisdiction of places some
neighbouring bishops had usurped; but in fol-
lowing those pursuits, he died on a journey to
Rome, in the year 1133.

It seems, some of them were seized by the
Normans, lOQI, and notwithstanding Urbarr*s

143

endeavours, this see hath never recovered itself;
and bishop Kitchen, in the reign of Henry VIII.
greatly impoverished it, by setting or leasing out
on long leases, almost all the lands belonging
to it, insomuch as to have nearly ruined it ; and
bishop Blethen is stated lo have still more les-
sened its revenues, in order to provide for his
children, by selling and alienating lands belong-
ing to it : and in Cromwell's rebellion, more
lands were sold, for the sum of 37 7 5/. 3s. &d.
besides material injury being done to the edifice
by the contending parties.

On the death of the organist, in 1692, the
choir service was put down, and has been dis-
continued ever since; and in 1705, or 170(5, the
roof fell in, and thus despoiled us of the ori-
ginal beauty this edifice, no doubt, was replete
with: to this church there was a library, which,
in all probability, contained valuable records,
but in the civil wars was dispersed by the
rebels, and, according to Browne Willis, part
of it burned, with a number of Common Prayer
Books, at Cardiff, whither the cavaliers of the

144

country, and the wives of several clergymen,
were invited to the castle, on a cold win-
ter's day, to warm themselves by the fire,
which was then made of the books.

The sequestered and delightful situation of
the church is well calculated to inspire devo-
tion, and rendered truly sublime, by being en-
closed within the walls of the ancient struc-
ture, composed of the elegant and ornamented
fragments of the former architecture : never
did I witness an edifice kept in such an uni-
form, praise-worthy, and commendable neatness ;
and was it possible to increase the praise of
its respectable and venerable residentiary, it
would be added on this occasion.

We enter this solemn pile by ascending a
few steps out of the ruins of the old one,
when its lightness, plainness, and somewhat
remarkable singularity, must be striking to
every one. We are not here, as in other build-
ings of this kind, attracted by a multiplicity
of columns, or bewildered by the profusion of

145

ornament, or numerous monumental records of
departed mortals; there are but few, and those
must be carefully searched for. The choir is
enclosed, and occupies the space of the great
aisle, containing 12 stalls, with the addition of
thrones for the bishop and archdeacon ; two
pulpits, one of them decorated with mitres, in
which the bishop preaches, and the altar is
raised on five steps, over which is the repre-
sentation of a temple, supported by pillars.
The choir, though rather unbecomingly heavy
in its ornaments, is singularly pleasing for the
assistance it gives to the voice, rendering the
modulations so musically distinct.

I now went to the west end of the north
aisle, by observing several ancient and curious
monuments, but containing very few scriptrai
memorials : a flat stone first presents itselfj
now without any inscription, which, perhaps,
was obliterated by the frequent research of
grateful memory : another in this humble pos-
ture, and presumed (by the emblems on it)
to be the safeguard of the, deposited remains

146

of episcopal dignity. Two effigies on a raised
pedestal, in pontifical habits, are recording the
memories of St. Dubritius, and bishop Brum-
field, with the pastoral staff, mitres, &c. Of
the first, there is scarce any further knowledge,
than, that being bishop of this see, and living
to a great age, he resigned his dignity to St.
Teleiau, anno 5J2, after enjoying the same
above 8O years ; he died at Bardsey, in 522,
and his bones were translated here by Urban,
on his repairing this edifice. Bishop Brumfield,
S. T. P. a monk of St. Edmondsbury, abbot of
the monastery of Silva #%'or, in the diocese of
Bourdeaux, and master of the divinity school
in the pope's palace, a very learned man,
though of a pragmatical humour, obtained this
see by papal provision, and received the tem-
poralities on December the 17th, 138Q; after
jie had scarce enjoyed it two years, he died,
anno 1391, and was buried in his own cathe-
dral. Above this tomb is a sculpture in relievo,
affixed to the wall, representing the crucifixion,
with all the instruments employed on that
solemn occasion, emblematical of the faith in

147

which these persons died : there is something
so striking, as well as singular, in the device,
as naturally to fix our thoughts to the grand
subject it displays ; nor can our adoration be
raised too high, when we consider the cause,
the scheme, and the effects, of that meritorious
proof of divine charity : a serious contemplation
on every one single article here exhibited, must
lead the mind to devotion, and endeavour to
establish maxims of morality never to be swerved
from during our existence in this sublunary
state ; impressed for ever should these me-
mentos be upon the heart, guarding it ' from
temptation, and inferior delight of worldly en-
joyments ; then might we be better enabled to
meet the irrevocable decree passed on us, and
fasten with more certainty on that hope, which
alone can cheer us in the great conflict of
nature.

On the opposite side, in a gothic niched
recess in the wall, is the effigy of bishop Danes,
5*. T. P. in his episcopal robes, who had been
archdeacon of the church, and elected to this

see July 2Q, 1667, confirmed the 23d, and
consecrated the 24th of August ; he died, March
34, 1674, and was buried in this cathedral: he
founded a library here, and presented it with
many of the fathers, from the second to the
eighth century, and several other works ; above
this are also emblems of crucifixion in a shield :
beyond these, in another recess of the same
form, is the figure of a skeleton, done upwards
of 50O years since, and designed to perpetuate
the memory of an unfortunate female, who pined
herself away, and fell a victim to that passion
nature gifted to render mortals most happy ;
poor neglected girl! ! this monument is artfully
contrived to awaken sensibility, by the forcible
manner it displays itself, not boldly discover-
ing the whole formation at once, but ingeni-
ously withdrawing a part of the shroud, and
disclosing only sufficient to shew of what
nature and transformation the departed being
is become. No longer the blooming object
which created pleasure not only to those around,
but in remembrance of the distant ; could ye
now emerge from the enclosing tomb, what

149

awe wouldst thou inspire tb ~ those who once
neglected thee ! thy delicacy, which could not
bind on earth, would rivet with unutterable
surprise, in your exchanged form ! disengaged
from all attachment, ye could now give instruc-
tive lessons of the instability of earthly beauty,
and moderate the impulse of mankind, tb
acquire charms, lasting only with existence,
mortify the appetite for conceived personal
elegance, and shew how corroding is the cover-
ing of death. Ambition here may learn, how
vain and unstable are all the acquirements of
wealth, grandeur, and fame : this, the return
for thy adoring heart, from the faithless or
impenetrable object of thy misplaced affection,
whose inhumanity hath forced thee to the bit-
terness of death, in the bitterest shape! ! and
ignorance, or insensibility, consigned to the
tomb, youth, beauty, and affection ! Look on
this, ye survivors, nor add more trophies of
dissembling or carelessness: this is a monument
for the gay and thoughtless, the healthful aiid
strong, an exchange for what was amiable and
lovely, inviting, and endearing; go, disappointed

150

virgin, and though thy sun of life was clouded
by affliction, receive that rest appointed for the
virtuous, and enjoy felicity superior to thy
desires, and lasting as eternity.

On the same side, raised on a high, or-
namented tombr is represented a knight in
armour, with his head resting on an open hel-
met, crested with a headless bird, his feet
resting on a crouching lion; the whole in
alabaster, displaying a good specimen of sculp-
ture, to commemorate Christopher Matthews, a
character distinguished by his illustrious acts
of valour, and amazing strength ; he was in
stature six feet two inches high, and was killed
in the civil wars.

In a recess opposite, are two figures, con-
sidered to be David Matthews and wife; he is
represented in armour, and his lady by his side,
both in alabaster ; these effigies, and the orna-
ments about them, display great taste in the
execution, and are remarkable for the delicacy
and elegance with which the female drapery is

151

delineated : beneath them is an inscription in
ancient characters.

Passing through a small chapel, at the east
end, divided by the altar of the choir, which
breadth this chapel occupies, (and is appropriated
to the performance of service in Welsh) ; here
are deposited the remains of bishop John de
Monmouth, doctor in divinity, chancellor of
Oxford, prebendary of Milton, in the church of
Lincoln, nominated to this see in March, 12Q4 ;
though, on account of the death of the pope,
he did not receive consecration until February
10, 1296, after which he had the temporalities
restored him April 4th following; he was a
great benefactor to his church, and in all
respects a good governor thereof, as may be
seen in Fuller's Worthies in Monmouthshire, where
he was born in the town of Monmouth, and so
surnamed ; he procured the parsonage of Neiv-
land, in the county of Glocester, which one of
his predecessors obtained from the bishopric of
Hereford, to be appropriated to his see, and did
several other good acts ; he died on the 8th of

ril) 1323, which was recorded in a French
inscription, long since worn out and defaced.

At the north-east corner of the south aisle,
in a recess, is a monument to Christiana Aud-
ley, a character distinguished not only for her
bequest of the great and little heaths to the
poor of Landaff, Roach, and Whitechurch, but
for a valuable life; it presents proofs of the
ability of the artist, by the superior workman-
ship which: adorns it, exhibited in alabaster,
whose spotless white tints the innocence of her
life, «and seems to exhibit an emblematical trait
of the character it commemorates ; the surface
smooth, as was her amiable disposition, without
ostentation, yet fully grand, displaying those
lustres herself exhibited ; but when monumental
records are mouldering to the dust, thy me^
moiy will live in the grateful hearts of those
who feel the value of thy generous donations ;
actions which require no other mode of infor-
mation to posterity, than in the persons who
realize the benefits thereof: beyond them, lie
p Pascal, who died October 11, 1301, at

153

his episcopal palace, at Bishton; and William
de Breuse, consecrated 1265, and died March
19, 1286 — 7 following; these are very humble
stones, with inscriptions so defaced as to be
scarcely legible ; no cost, or expensive deco-
ration, added to tell survivors any thing beyond
mediocrity, and that so worn, perhaps by fre-
quent resort of affection or tenderness, as to
make the stone appear unfaithful of retaining
its charge ; no doubt they have most frequently
enlivened the associated circle, and gladdened
the hearts of the more unhappy, sacrificed their
wishes to the good of others, and eloquently
pourtrayed the charming counsels of the vir-
tuous, to the growing generation set forth the
example of piety, beneficence, and worth. Here
are all which can now be known ; and may
their merits have been sufficient to waft their
souls to happiness- unsullied, and joys unspeak-
able.

The old chapter-room .exhibits interesting
antiquity in its construction, being supported
by only one pillar in the centre, with springing

154

gothic arches ; in it are the two monuments
before spoken of, brought from the west en-
trance, of Sir William Matthews and his lady.

After having had all the monuments pointed
out to me, I was desirous of inspecting them
more accurately ; my guide being under the
necessity of attending to his own avocation, left
me ; pleased with the idea of spending a few
moments under its sacred roof, I locked myself
in, to indulge the meditations so mournfully
pleasing to a sorrowful mind: never had I been
in a situation so awfully retired, which gave
every object a grave and serious air ; the pro-
found silence that reigned, added solemnity to
the scene, and inspired a religious dread, while
wandering over the hallowed spot strewed with
the departed, gave, though a silent, a solemn
admonition.

It were wise to be frequent in such situ-
ations as would turn our attention from the
multiplicity of frivolous objects with which we
are surrounded, to contemplate our more im-

155

portant state as regarding a future existence ;
neither would it betray a disposition to be
deemed austere, by encouraging thoughts of so
momentous a change as we are certain at one
time or other we must undergo. Placed, as I
was, amidst the relics of departed beings, and
susceptible of their eloquent (though inactive)
instructions, I more deeply felt the insigni-
ficance of my present state, if viewed only in
an earthly light ; convinced by those around,
how transitory, weak, and futile, were all
attempts to attain a lasting satisfaction in our
present sphere, or by the work of our own.
hands to gain a solidness of glory without
decay.

By retirement from the noise of the busy
throng (and that often is the only mode to
set us right in our imaginations, and to re-
strain evils which pour upon us in every
direction, and from every circumstance) we
should be roused from the slumber of care-
lessness, and invigorated to an exertion for the
attainment of superior qualifications, and open

156

to ourselves an understanding to guide us in
a path leading to a life unfading and unspot-
ted. Existence can be only delightful so far
as we are satisfied: how wretched then must
that mortal be who trusts only to the fleeting
enjoyments of the moment, when he considers,
that with them he must perish ; with them be
soon in oblivion ? For those reasons it behoves
us to turn our ideas to scenes like these
surrounding me, and listen to the senti-
ments they so forcibly dispense to an attentive
observer ; telling us, in language too plain to
be misunderstood, to conduct ourselves in such
manner, and to value our acquisitions, as the
better enabling us to perform our respective
parts with that propriety, as tp look with
pleasure on our past hours, and with tranquil
ease, to reflect on those moments which
are to convey us to another and unceasing
existence.

On one side of me, I perceived in similitude
an emblem of corruption,* a picture of faded

* The skeleton.

157

mortality, an end of fancied pleasure ; proving
the liability of our destruction, even from the
want of fulfilling our imaginary satisfactions :
distended, motionless, and incapable of percep-
tion ; no faculty of power remaining ; a sem-
blance of utter destruction. Could this be the
intent of our sojourning here ? Could this be
the desire of our Creator — the finish to his
performance ? The resemblance* at once denies
it, and shew us that we are valuable in esti-
mation, and the proud production for superior
advancement ; and to accomplish the important
task of raising our frail bodies to invaluable
glory, was the still more glorious condescension
of his unspeakable beneficence, whose sufferings
none can tell; and

" If Angels tremble, 'tis at such a sight ;"

A sight which must awaken all our horrors
for the circumstances which occasioned it, and
gratitude for the reinstatement of our favour,
by the strict observance of the duties to acquire
it ; never could our consequence be more plainly

f The trophies of the Resurrection and Ascension of Christ,
Y

158

set forth than by the affection shewn to pre-
serve us; a proof of future honours for which
we are now only to prepare, and the forfeiture
of them so great an injury to ourselves as
nothing could restore, but the agonies of an
ignominious death of even the Lord of our
life: with what veneration then ought we not
to contemplate this subject, and bow with
humble adoration for the means opened, and
the advantages offered unto us by such a won-
derful instance of favour and . charity ! how
insignificant are we, taken as a worldly object,
how poor and contemptible are our efforts or
power, how mean and abject our pretensions,
how divested of qualification to presume on our
own sufficiency to procure a share of felicity,
when nothing less than so astonishing an atone-
ment should be able to give us any prospect of
a release from those chains our perverseness had
rivetted ! But whilst we are attracted by " the
gaieties of the world, and the allurements of
amusements and dissipation, we can neither
form our minds, or allow the thought of a
future state, in any forcible degree, to withdraw

159

the attentions from the infatuating principle
which we so falsely call pleasure ; but should
any private or domestic distress happen within
the pale of our concerns, for a moment it cre-
ates a sensation of apprehensions, and confuses
our ideas rather than lessens the calamity ; and
with returning quietness so also returns that
exclusion of moral sentiments so highly preju-
dicial to the well regulating of our manners ;
but even should affliction hold with constant
grasp on our frame, still the mind, by its sus-
ceptibility of uneasiness, is rendered unfit for a
proper meditation on so sublime a theme ; how
careful then should we be occasionally to throw
off the attire of mortality, and whilst in the
enjoyment of all our faculties, turn to the
repository of the dead, and hold converse with
corruption ; of such importance is it, that it
cannot fail of giving us a true portrait of our-
selves, and of the vanity of other, pursuits which
do not tend to • the promoting not only our
welfare in this, but superlative blessings, lasting
as glorious in the future translation : it will
teach us that, perishing as pur frames appear,

160

•

there is yet a way whereby to attain, and a
hold whereby to fix, which will never desert
us, but joyfully present as a testimony of love
which cannot be refused, and of mercy which
cannot be overthrown, all this procured by that
inestimable sacrifice, (which is now represented
before me) by which the redemption of fallen
man is procured — and eternal pardon sealed to
those who profess with undeviating faith the
merits of the intercession, and reliance on the
power of that blood shed so profusely for our
iniquities ; a stain not greater than could
be obliterated, but too great to be otherwise
cleansed than by the means taken so benefi-
cently for us. May this impressive matter be
so affixed to my heart, that my future endea-
vours shall be only such as will more closely
confirm the maxims set for us to follow, to
acquire that profusion of blessing promised only
to the deserving ! And oh ye sacred remnants
of departed popularity, over whose bones I now
tread, may your convincing arguments strike
deep to my heart, and be the cause of more
frequent visits to similar companions^ from whom

161

lessons of wisdom are numerous, and the truths
ye display unanswerable ! Let it be the hap-
piest moment of my life that hearkened to the
instructions ye gave, and be proved by the
constancy of my endeavours to retain the prin-
ciples imbibed, till that dread moment shall
arrive in which I shall be summoned to join
you !

I cannot retire from this edifice without
remarking, that whatever imperfections there

may be in the regularity of its structure, it is

/ .*•"'

amply compensated by its neatness; indeed this

is so particularly attended to, as not only to
render it truly impressive, but to inspire the
mind with sentiments suitable to the purpose
for which the building was intended.

After leaving the church with an impression of
melancholy, yet of pleasure, not only caused
by visiting the asylum of departed virtues,
but by wandering over ruins that picture the
escutcheon of destroying time, I was awakened
from my contemplation by the appearance of a

162

woman busied among the graves : on approach-
ing unobserved, I soon perceived it was nature
in distress; she was on her knees, looking
pathetically on a little earthy hillock, enamelled
with flowers, and surrounded by a narrow grass
border, which she was carefully weeding; — now
her eyes were directed up to heaven, then on
the grave, and shaking her head, when a deep sigh
waved these little vegetable records which were
profusely watered by her tributes of unfeigned
sorrow. Her grief interested my feelings, I
could no longer resist enquiring for her tale
of woe : she told me, it was the peaceful
remains of her only child ! ! unfolded with
such simplicity, with a voice so much in the
tone of distress, and with actions so truly the
types of affliction, that I was obliged (with-
out being able to say I pitied her situation)
to conceal myself among the ruins, fearful
of being reproached with a weakness in
which nature could only find relief; there I
silently reviewed this testimony of affection,
and earnestly entreated, that whenever it
pleased heaven to take from me life, there

163

might be one remembering friend to visit the
humble spot and mark the repository of my
ashes, by so expressive, tender, and pleasing
an office.

The town of Landaff is small, and the exam-
ple exhibited by its ecclesiastical edifice, has
become a proselyte to the pattern of its neat-
ness : no sooner had I taken my farewell of
this place, than the river Taffe presented itself;
the beauty of its varied shores was pleasingly
harmonized, by the breadth and transparency
of its murmuring stream ; passing over it by a
bridge of two arches, at the distance of two
miles to the left, through a country replete
with objects to render scenery interesting, and
delightfully pleasing by the Countenances of the
inhabitants so expressive of happiness; the
canal became my close companion, and the
river I had lately left, was winding through
the vale in fanciful directions, to i^ake it
most agreeable to the eye; its b jun •* ies com-
prised every charming assemblage of pleasing
variety, in which the united effort of nature

164

and art were most tastefully displayed : the
opposite hill was beautifully clothed with cop-
pice wood, that gave it a forest-like appearance,
and rendered it doubly interesting by the
situation of Mr. Lewis's iron-works, and the
many residences of those who are there em-
ployed ; the attention now became particularly
engaged on a castellated ruin, which though it

165

bore the evidence of great decline, was marked
with the character of ancient splendour; its
walls were partially veiled by a mantling of
ivy, and placed midway down the mountain's
side, its rear was so thickly overshadowed with
embowering trees, as to deny the rays of the
sun to penetrate ; while in other parts you
observe masses of limestone, embellished with
timber, finding subsistence from the crevices of
its rocks : a workman being employed at the
lime-kilns below it, (who I was delighted to
find understood sufficient English to be sensible
to my request,) induced me to enquire of
him the name of the castle, and if any history,
traditional or otherwise, was related to it ; but
here the unaccommodating disposition of one
of the lowest order of the people, in denying
a stranger the least information, put my humor
to the test, and had an oath been pardonable,
it would have claimed privilege on this morti-
fying occasion. ( What is the name of the
' castle ?' ' Dim saesoneg.' — f Is there any his-
' tory of it?' 6 Dim saesoneg? • — ( How far to
' Pont-y-pridd ?' ( Dim saesoneg.'' — ' Where

166

' does the canal go to ?' ' Dim saesoneg? —
Determined to put a still simpler question,
asked him the name of his national river which
was rolling at our feet ? * Dim saesoneg*. This
perverseness I must acknowledge provoked me
to be personal, and in hasty terms, applied a
name derived from the river, gracefully mean-
dring in sight, which fired the Cambrian to
such a degree, that the Briton and Saxon had
nearly got to blows.

This castle is named Castle-coch, and sup-
posed to have been erected to defend the . pass
of the river, though its situation is certainly
ill judged, on account of the hill which com-
mands it : the access is difficult, not only from
its stupendous height, and being overgrown with
bushes, but the barrier of loose stones (which
once composed a part of its fabric) is now
formed as a wall; and, strange to relate, every
step appeared to have been taken to impede an
explorer : the interior presented one series of
desolation; and though there is a pleasure in
wandering over a mouldering pile, the gloomy

167

monument of departed fame, robbed, it of the
usual gratification, and excited a solemnity :
trees and shrubs became the residents of its
courts, and its ruined walls were obstructed
from the eye by a darkening veil of ivy, that
rendered it difficult, from its dilapidated state,
to trace its former extent. The magnificence
of its front is peculiarly attractive, and serves
to throw a light on its former fame ; but on
researching this noble remain, I. was amply
rewarded, and. pleasure resumed its gratification,
by a view from its large broken window pre-
senting such a variety of countless charms,
beyond the reach of description or delineation:
the scene was diversified in every fanciful form
that embraces the most pleasing features of land-
scape, adorned with a river winding through a
rich and high cultivated tract, ornamented with
a view of Cardiff, Landaff, and numerous other
interesting objects, until it reached the broad
expanse of the Bristol channel, the whole
forming a charming assemblage of choice and
variegated beauties ; there is scarcely any
knowledge to be gained of this place; but some

168

relate a story somehow connected with it,, that
when Jestyn-ap-Gwrgwn, a prince of Glamor-
ganshire, lived at Cardiff castle, Castle-coch (or
the red castle) was inhabited by a petty prince,
named Ivor Bach, (or little Ivor, a short, reso-
lute man), a mutual love having been formed
with one of Jestyn's daughters, he applied to
her parents for consent, which was refused ;
Ivor justly considering that life is undesirable
if separated from the object of love, collected
a chosen band, stormed Cardiff castle, and
carried off his prize ; the enraged father pur-
sued, but soon afterwards consented to the
union. Ivor Bach was a descendant and the
last of the- kings of Baycheinog, he was slain
in battle in a valley called after him, Pant-
coed-Ivor, or the valley of Ivor's army,

'

Turning down a narrow lane, immediately
opposite to a wear, which was transversely
stretching across the stream of the Taffe to
turn the water to Mr. Lewis's forge, I found
the remains of the once celebrated TafFe's

.well; it is a mineral spring, and said to be

o

strongly impregnated with iron, issuing through
an immense bed of that ore, which runs in
the direction under the river, and of very
considerable extent : the situation was truly
romantic, in a peaceful vale, enclosed by lofty
boundaries, ornamented with hanging woods,
contrasting a variety of hues, and the mean-
dering Taffe roaring as it rolled along in
agitated haste,

The spring was formerly enclosed, and its
original construction had unfted considerable
strength to a good display of masonry ; but
the irresistible force of the winter floods (for
want of proper attention) had caused a chasm
nearly to the bottom, and promises eventually
to leave no vestige of a barrier sufficient to
confine a body of water to be the least ser-
viceable. It is reported to possess the infallible
property of curing the most inveterate rheu-
matism, and innumerable cures are said to have
been acquired by the efficacy of the water,
which I heard from many people of the
country : the brightness of the day gave me

TT j .

170

an opportunity of distinctly observing several
powerful springs rising from the bottom of
the well, at the depth of three feet, keeping
the sand in perpetual playful motion ; and
often would a column of water rush with such
considerable force as to exceed the limits of
its surface, continuing for the space of a
minute or two, and would return in irre-r
gular periods of three, four, and nearly five
minutes; numerous bubbles were disseminating
through the whole, and often a column of
air would rush * with great noise ; the water
which was escaping was very abundant, and
had incrusted the stones it passed over to
resemble corroded gravel ; it was beautifully
transparent, much warmer than the Taffe, and
very grateful to the palate ; it is totally un-
heard of in the page of history, and its virtues
preserved only in the tradition of the country,
of which numerous instances were related to
to me of its success. I have been thus parti-
cular, with a hope that some gentleman versed
in chemistry will be induced to analyse and
elucidate its properties, as its renown might

171

i •
still be rescued, by which he would meet with

the reward of rendering a peculiar kindness to
society, and administer a charm, equalled by
no other gratification, of making others happy.

While I was thus perplexing my mind to
account for the singular and astonishing effect
of the well, my reverie was interrupted by a
girl, appearing about 16, supported on one side
by a crutch, and the other by a venerable
female friend; the girl was attired, as is usual
in this part of the principality, in a little
beaver hat similar to those worn by men, a
neat plaited mob cap was tied under her chin,
and over a blue jacket a whittle was substi-
tuted for a cloak, and thrown gracefully over
her shoulders ; the form of her face had been
round, but illness and a marked melancholy,
though they had changed the form, could not
conceal the vestiges of beauty ; her manners
were wonderfully soft, and her voice so musi-
cally sweet, that I could not help listening
with uncommon attention to the detail of her
misfortunes : her aged guide expatiated on the

172

numerous cures performed by the efficacy of
its water, and lamented the rich did not con-
tribute to give health and comfort to others ;
but its dilapidated state, allowing the water of
the river often to mingle with the contents of
the well, was a circumstance of the deepest
regret to her and the country, as by it the
water was rendered less efficacious ; f Yes, Sir,'
rejoined her young charge, ( I should have
6 been cured before this;' and detailed her
visitation of Providence with so simple a grace
and earnestness, looking significantly at the
well, that I never felt the loss of fortune so
severely as at that moment, to reflect I was
incapable of repairing its structure : the relation
of her sorrow not only excited the emotions
which had agitated her mind, to make them
tremble in her eye but to quiver on her lips ;
this induced me to use all the rhetoric I was
master of, not only to dispel the cloud of
dejection, but to impress on her mind a resto-
ration of health as certain; it had the most
wished-for effect, and a pleasure was moment-
arily gathering on that face which appeared to

173

have been a stranger to a smile for a length

of time ; after a lengthened attentive look on

the well, as if she read an assurance of my

prediction ; she raised her eyes until they met

mine, then on the well, — then on me, — and

thus kept alternately changing the object with

a visible pleasure playing on her countenance.

It now became time to depart, and again on

assuring her of a restoration, told her I little

doubted, when visiting the country again to

hear my wishes realised, and that perhaps her

children would unite in offering up their praise^

for the recovery; the very idea abridged the

native innocence of her .tongue from taking leave,

but the conscious eloquence of her inpcjesty

bade me farewell, by the expression of a blush.

The road continuing by the path of the
canal, its placid face formed a happy contrast
to the impetuous river which was breaking
over the distorted rocky impediments which
filled its bed, and winding through the centre of
the vale, whose boundaries were lofty, clothed
with wood, tastefully intersected by innumeiv

A a

174

able lines as the vernal divisions of inclosures.
At the Bridgewater Arms I took up my
abode, as it appeared so much the residence
of rural nature ; this house, though not fore-
most in comforts, must have precedence for
eggs, bacon, and civility ; the country now
presents a different feature ; quarries of large
fiat stones and white slate are numerous, as
are coal and- iron works: turning down a lane
beyond Mr. CRAWSHAW'S new forge, the beau-
tiful structure of Pont-y-Pridd bursts on the

175

sight, placed in such a situation as to be
completely concealed until a very near approach,
when the delight and surprize to see so light
and beautiful a structure bending over so im-
mense a stream, makes language too poor for
its description ; the torrent is seen stealing from
behind a fertile and well cultivated hill, pleas-
ingly diversified with wood ; *on the left a
lofty hill displays mountain scenery, with the
summit covered with fern or russet herbage,
except where stratas of quarry had excluded
all vegetation, and midway down the side is a
thick covering of trees surrounding a little cot-
tage, and a distant view of a rich fertilized
country peeping under the arch, united to
combine every thing that was pleasing ; but
with all the delight of these contrasting scenes,
the eye was scarcely allowed leisure to gaze by
the elegant structure which was striding across
a furious stream, and never could I have been
satisfied, nor should I have so hastily left it, had
not the collecting water from the deluge which
in the course of the night, not only set

176

limits to my delighted fancy, but warned me
to depart by hastily accumulating, and encircling
the little hill I stood on. An attempt to
describe the beauties surrounding this remark-
able proof of a man's native genius, must fall
far short of the reality, the object itself chal-
lenging every work of the kind to surpass, or
even to equal ; the chord of it is 140 feet,
from a diameter of 175 ; its height is 35, and
notwithstanding the apparent lightness and sim-
plicity, has hitherto braved the utmost fury of
the ungovernable stream ever since 1756, and
continues likely to remain as firm, so long as
care is taken of it. Such an assemblage of
art and nature it was difficult for me to quit,
and shall take the opportunity of informing my
readers, that this structure owes its rise to
accidents, and persevering endeavours to coun-
teract them.

The hundreds of Miskin and Senghennyth
contracted with William Edwards, a Welsh
common mason, to erect a brido-e of four

O

177

arches, for which he was to have ^500.
and ensure its duration for seven years ; this
failed in less than two, from the furious tor-
rent which overwhelmed it ; in consequence he
was necessitated to rebuild, according to his
bond ; his next scheme was a single arch to
be of sufficient width to permit the free run of
the river without impediment, and to defy any
of the usual floods from destroying his labour:
he met with some difficulty in gaining the
approbation of his sureties, who conceived the
scheme to be romantic and impracticable ; however
he gained his point to attempt it, and when
nearly completed, his timber supports gave way,
and all fell down: undaunted by this accident,
he persevered with stronger assistances, on,
finishing a single-arched bridge, but he soon
after found he had fresh occasion for his inven-
tive genius, as, owing to the thinness of the
crown of the arch, the heavy abutments forced
it upwards, and again destroyed his perform-
ance, but his merits appeared so fully to the
Lords Talbot and Windsor, that they generously

178

assisted his enterprising spirit in a fresh attempt
to retain his design of a single arch, and on
lightening the very great pressure of the abut-
ment by the contrivance of three tunnels on
each side of the centre ; he fully accomplished
his ideas, and has left to the world a specimen
of uncommon singularity, beauty, utility, and
solidity, which has withstood the united force
of tempests, torrents, &c. for 46 years past, as
a stone in the centre informs us, <c William

Edwards, 1756.'' A person of taste will be

? ^

fascinated by the survey of it and its neigh-
bouring scenery, and I know not that a spot
so well chosen could be found to embellish a
work of such a nature ; the whole forming so
grand an appearance as must be always pleasing
and unceasingly gratifying.

Observing a stream apparently of no incon-
siderable consequence, and tributary to the
Taffe, I was induced, to approach it, when I
perceived a plain neat structure across the river
Rhonda, by two arches, the banks thickly

179

shaded with woo4? and the distant country en-
riched with high cultivation ; the river appeared
to be emergirg from a thick wood, and bathing
a fisherman's cottage, stationed in the most
convenient ma... r for its master's avocations,
it then became separated by rude impediments,
and as it approached the bridge, softened into
rippling streams from the ridges of pebbles,
pursuing a rural road embowered with trees,
through occasional openings of which the river
would present itself, dashing and roaring over

180

mishapen rocks, fringed with mosses of the
deepest hue: at the distance of two miles
Berw Rhonda appears; the £ataracL_ contracted

by nature rushes with irresistible force, and
forms a cascade enveloped in white foam ; the
opposite confine of the river is an abrupt
bank, thickly covered with wild shrubs and

181

trees springing from the interstices of the rock,
where a seed has been by chance dropped, and
cherished by the soil contained in it : here I
enjoyed some pleasant fishing, though the trout
are very small, but from the large tablets of
stone that had obtruded themselves into the
stream, gave me a fine opportunity of throw-
ing my line with the greatest precision.

On returning by the road I came, a narrow
wooden foot-bridge bestrided the enraged tor-
rent; the agitation it was in, and the gloominess
of the trees that overshadowed it, filled my
mind with a terror mingled with delight, and
the fineness of the evening tempted me to
sit down, when the distant murmuring of the
cataract I had left, was most agreeably har-
monized by the softer notes of various babbling
brooks.

Leaving the Bridgewater Arms, continued by
the side of the canal for about a mile and an
half, to see the famous fall and salmon leap,

B b

182 x

called Bervv Riske, on the Taffe, which is at the
foot of the mountain, seen in the view from
Pont-y-Pridd. Pursuing a winding, treacherous
path, the roar not only kept measuring the dis-
tance, but warned me what I might expect ;
but very much was that expectation out-done
on arriving at the cascade; it is of enchanting
beauty, and its grand current, divided by a few
rocky projections, made its fall more tremen-
dous, and stunned the ear by the peal of its
thundering down j from the craggy interstices
of the bank, a few stately trees had taken
root, whose hanging heads and extended arms
were not only waved, but the pendant branches
were endeavouring to soothe the angry torrent
by sweeping its furious surface ; there were not
any salmon attempting to stem the impetuous
stream while I was there, which my guide
expressed as surprising, though he acknow-
ledged, from the fullness of the river, few

could succeed ; the fall of it was at least 1 5

•

feet, and on a projecting fragment the fisher-
man stands with a sharp hook at the end of
a pole, which (when the fish leaps) with great

183

dexterity he scarcely ever fails of striking
into it.

Returning to the road, the country displayed
a variety of mountain scenery, and the -sin^
gular effect of 16 locks of the canal rising
above each other as a flight of steps, the
canal passing over the impetuous river by
means of an aqueduct, and the mill taking the
advantage of a tributary brook, are features of
no inconsiderable gratification : turning to the
left, at the Quaker's burying ground, and
ascending the lofty eminence on the right,
presents an exuberant mantle of wood, the
iron dram, or rail-road, is in view, which
extends from Merthyr to the canal navigation
house, where it is seen curving in obedient
windings to the formation of the hills, whose
side it is travelling by ; here I had manifest
proof -of the inventive faculty of man, and
persevering assiduity to surmount the obstacles
lying in the way of his pursuits ; it is aston-
ishing to what lengths the unceasing propen-

184

sity to acquire facility, to undertakings, be it
in whatever» profession it may, will carry the
labours and contrivances, and the expenditure
of property, to create conveniences. Indeed
the great spirit of enterprise seems unabated
throughout the whole country ; nor are bounds
set to any undertaking that appears to have
a chance of success ; although matters to a
common observer seem unsurmountable in every
direction, difficulties are but little thought of,
and the strong arm of labour surmounts the
whole : when we consider the efforts to be used,
and the property expended in the construction
of an iron rail road, for the purpose alone of
conveying the goods from the manufactories
to the canals or river, we are led to wonder
that such extensive means are employed to
apparently so little purpose, or that ever a
remuneration could be made to either projec-
tors or proprietors ; and great indeed must be
the quantum of matter sent forth • from the
works to enable the owners to reimburse them-
selves, and encourage such undertakings*

185

To be properly convinced of the magni-
ficence of these schemes, requires personal
observation ; for description must fail of mag-
nitude, .although prolix in the display: it will
not be amiss to give some idea of the per-
formance, which, although I closely surveyed,
and had described to me by parties employed
thereon, I conceive there cannot be so correct
an account as related by an Author*, in every
respect qualified to gratify the most curious,
and content the most scrupulous; and although
the description is in reference to another place,
and in another county, still from the similarity
of all works of this nature one will serve
for the whole. I shall therefore abide by his
words :— *

" A rail road is so called, because it is formed by a kind of frame
(f with iron rails, or bars laid lengthways, and fastened or cramped by
" means of cross bars ; the ground being excavated, about six feet in
« breadth, and two in depth, is strewed over with broken pieces of
" stone, and the frame laid down ; it is composed of rails, sleepers, or
*f cross bars and under sleepers, the rail is a bar of oast iron, four feet in
" length, three inches thick, and one and a half broad, its extremities
*.' are respectively concave and convex, or in other words, are morticed

* Mr, Coxe,

186

" and tenanted into each other, and fastened at the end by two wooden
*{ pegs to a cross bar called a sleeper; this sleeper was originally of iron,
" but experience ha- ing shewn that iron was liable to snap or bend, it
" is now mad of wood, which is considerably cheaper, and requires less
" repair ; under each extremity of the sleeper is a square piece of wood,
" called the under sleeper, to which it is attached by a peg : the frame
" being thus laid down, and filled with stones, gravel, and earth, the
" iron rails form a ridge above the surface, over which the wheels of
" the cars glide, by means of iron grooved rims three inches and a half
" broad; this is the general structure of the road when carried in a straight
" line ; at the junction of two roads, and to facilitate the passage of two
" cars in opposite directions, moveable rails, called turn-rails, are occa-
" sionally used, which are fastened with screws instead of pegs, and may
" be pushed side-ways. The level of the ground is taken with great
"• exactness, and the declivity in general so gentle a« to be almost imper.r
" ceptible, the perpendicular fall of the ground being no more than one
" inch in a yard, and scarcely ever more than three ; the road sometimes
" conveyed in a straight line, sometimes winding round the sides of
" precipices is a picturesque object, and the cars filled with coals or iron,
" and gliding along occasionally without horses, impress the traveller who
** is unaccustomed to such spectacles, with pleasing astonishment : the
" expence of forming these roads is very considerable, varying according
" to the nature of the ground, and the difficulty of procuring proper ma-
" terials, it is seldom less than ./looo. per mile, and sometimes exceeds
" that sum; the cars from the solidity of their structure, and the quantity
** of iron used in the axle-tree and wheels, when loaded weigh not less
" than three tons and a half ; they are drawn by a single horse, and the
" driver stands on a kind of foot-board behind, and can instantaneously
« stop the car by means of a lever and a drop, which falls between the
" wheels and suspends their motion ; in places where the declivity is more
" rapid than usual, the horse is taken out, and the car impelled
« by its own weight,"

Tliis is part of a country where the spirit of
industry seems to meet with the success it
deserves, and is plainly perceptible among the
numerous iron forges, coal mines, &c. which
are in establishment, and by new erections for
the same purpose ; the country now gave evi
dences of increased and increasing population,
by the valley being sprinkled with villages and
numerouss edifices : before I reached Merthyr,
it was no longer in repose, but all a scene of
active employ, and often would a car emerge
from a subterraneous world, through a chasm
so small as not to be observed until very near
it, and columns of dark smoke were rising in
every direction.

Passing Mr. HILL'S works, the ear is first
assailed by massive hammers, and the roar of
furnaces. I soon reached Merthyr Tydfil, where
the river appeared choaked with the scoriae of
iron ore, so baneful to fish : — with truth it
may be said, no place in the kingdom has had
so rapid an increase of trade and population in
the same number of years*; here were objects

188

to me new, striking, and in part wonderful,
and afforded an opportunity of observing what
the abilities of man could be master of, by the
application of property, and by perseverance ;
the whole district, and the neighbouring hills,
abound with food for the employment, and
literally give bread to thousands of artificers
in the service of the works of Clyfartha,
Dowlais, Plymouth, and Pen-y-Darran ; the ap-
pearance of them create an idea of the gloomy
mansions of Pluto's inhabitants existing amidst
volcanoes, breathing fire and smoke, and whose
flames serve only to add to their enjoyment.

I first visited the works of Mr. HUMPHREYS^
the civility of that gentleman not only allowed
me the privilege of inspecting, but sent an
intelligent person to point out the different
processes, which, did I attempt to describe
minutely, I should only do injustice to the
task, and betray my own inability ; from the
native advantage of the place, the coke is
here burned, and the iron-stone and lime cal-
cined, which unites by adding one-third of the

latter to two-thirds of the former; it is then

submitted into the fineries, and melted into

pigs, then to the puddling furnace, and formed

into lumps by ponderous hammers, after which

from the blooming furnace, it is, by cylinders,

rolled into bars, when it again undergoes a

process called finishing, previous to its being

sent away; and the forming the horse-shoe

by means of a mould, is a further proof of

immeasurable genius. The machinery of this

gentlemante works is put in motion principally

by steam, and all must be acknowledged to

be regulated with extreme order and neatness.

I now went to the works of Mr. CRAW SHAY,
whose politeness and hospitality to me, did I
forget to acknowledge, would be a lasting
reproach, from such extreme civility offered to
a total stranger. The works of this gentleman
are on the like process, but on a more en-
larged scale than the one I had just left,,
employing, as I understood, of men, women,
and children, near POUR THOUSAND ; the coun-
tenances of those engaged about the furnaces,

c c

190

portrayed the ill effects of their dreadful vo-
cations; and the sooty legions so disfigured by
smoke,, pictured more the looks of infernals than
human beings.

I can never erase . from my recollection the
impression caused when the beautiful iron over-
shot wheel came kfirst in view ; it is allowed
to be the largest in the world, being no less
than 5O feet in diameter, and six in breadth ;
the various mechanism attendant on it is beau-
tifully connected, and seems to move with
conscious grace; the escaping water shaded all
in mist by its spray, and the body having
performed its office forms afterward a fine
cascade; it is called Eolus, and furnishes breath
for four bloomeries and four fineries ; the
water which turns it is conveyed from the
hills nearly five miles distant, across the TafFe,
and forms a double aqueduct, elevated above
the bed of the river 60 or 70 feet, supported
for near 30O yards, part by stone pillars, and
the remainder by wood and iron. The appa-
rent lightness of the whole, contrasted with

191

the massy boundary of the river, has not only
a singular, but a very interesting and pleasing
appearance. I cannot conclude without saying,
that an admirer of human achievement would
be gratified for coming from any distance to
visit this monument of genius erected to the
memory of its enterprising proprietor, and a
deserving artist : it should also be observed^
that the whole rests on gudgeons of 10O
tons, and that it is the constant province of
one man to apply sufficient grease to avoid the
danger of fire arising from friction ; and his
peculiar situation at different times in the
performance is remarkable, ,

The different works in this place are com-
puted to consume 245 tons of coal in a day^
and to complete (on an average) 253 tons of
iron per week. It is highly advantageous to
some of the works that the coal, the ore*
and lime are within 100 yards of each other;
thus avoiding a considerable expence which is
attached to many works of similar kind in
the country, of having some portion of their
materials to bring from far : and to add still

102

to the convenience of Merthyr was the canal
(I so long came on the borders of) con-
structed, and is reported to have cost the
proprietors ^120,000. expended in order to
convev, in conjunction with other commo-'
dities, the produce of their labor to Cardiff
with more ease and greater certainty for the
shipping of various parts.

Merthyr, situated between the hills, has a
singular effect, if seen from any of them
during the night, when the various fires and
blastings from the furnaces, with the incessant
din of hammers, wheels, mills, and water, adds
to the awful effect. As to the healthfulness
of this place, I cannot form any flattering
conclusions, when it is considered what clouds
of smoke arise from the works : 'it is suffi-
ciently populous to afford two market-days in
a week, and four fairs in the year; and the
number of inhabitants is to a certainty more
than 1O,000 ; and while the contiguous parts
are so productive as to keep the manufactories
in employ, the place will rather increase than
diminish.

After leaving Merthyr a few miles, I entered
Brecknockshire ; for some distance the country
was thickly strewed with rude stones that
usurped the province of vegetation; on the
right an Upright rock towered its head into a
cloud, when the vale through which the Taffe
was gliding was glittering by the gilded rays of
the sun ; the face of this terrific mass wag
bedecked with wild vegetation, flowers, and
patches of sportive ivy; and chasms were nou-
rishing the roots of shrubs, which appeared to
triumph in this unmolested situation. The
face of day considerably changed, and darken-
ing clouds were gathering from every quarter ;
the atmosphere became in sable tint, and I was
soon driven by the pitiless storm to seek shel-
ter at the half-way house, a very humble pile
indeed, and appearing to be raised for the
residence of undisturbed solitude; but the study
to please made me forget that any thing
beyond common comforts were superfluous :
neither the good old woman or her handmaid
could speak English, nor I the dialect of their
country; however with various actions of dumb

194

shew, I had all my wants supplied : on the
storm being appeased, and the face of heaven
resuming its wonted serenity, pursued my jour-
ney ; the country now became poor in trees,
and the steep barren mountains were spotted
with sheep picking a scanty subsistence ; the
sides of this range of lofty hills were grooved
by the power of winter torrents, whose numer-
ous tributary streams account for the hasty rise
of the river ; here passing over a small bridge,
I took leave of the river which had been my
companion for upwards of 4O miles, no longer of
consequence to set limits to my admiration, but
dwindled into a trifling brook only a few feet
wide, and retiring to the right, is lost among
the mountains where it receives its origin.

I had scarcely left my late companion, when
I became interested in observing the sources of
the river Tarrant : small bubbling springs with
scarcely strength to run were rising by the side
of the road, but the numerous assemblage of
them rapidly increased in size, and the moun-
tains assumed the same appearance of being

195

worn by winter torrents. I could not but
observe and admire the attention that is here
paid to keep the ,mile stones regular and
perfectly intelligible ; a circumstance which
is disgracefully neglected in many parts of
England. The Tarrant had now enlarged itself
to a considerable stream, and assisted to
embellish the country, which became more
and more improving in beauty the nearer I
approached to Brecon ; on reaching the bridge,
the venerable castle presents itself, at whose
feet the transparent Usk was rolling ; the

town is of considerable size, and replete with
conveniencies of every description, most agree-
ably situated on an eminence, which gives it
an advantage for pleasing scenery to be ob-
served from most parts of it ; this has been
important ground for many ages, and has
afforded ite share in the pleasures and toils of
different parties. Its various ruins, of as various
buildings, are monuments of its original con-
sequence, and frequent sufferings ; it is now
large and populous, and not unhandsome ; has
three principal streets, and among them several
houses more elegant than is usual in such
distant towns. The remains of the priory
exhibit a considerable share of old gothic
workmanship, and the church belonging to
it still appropriated for public worship ; its
situation is somewhat gloomy, but the con-
sideration of its original purpose and present
employment rather adds a solemnity to it than
detracts.

In the neighbourhood are the remains of
the castle, which has, as usual, been the

107

i

contested object and refuge of various parties ;
but its greatest peculiarity is on account of
the settlement between the duke of Bucking-
ham and the bishop of Ely, for the resto-
ration of the Lancastrian line to the throne of
England, which was here successfully managed,
and in the end completed; but it should have
been previously observed, that the bishop was
a prisoner of the duke's at the time of the
scheme originating. The history of this place
can be brought into a small compass in respect
of events, of which I shall not be prolix. Of
the early date of Brecknock it is related, that

The men of Brecknock are said to have
slain Ithol, the 53d king of Gwent, in 846.

After the Danes were defeated by Alfred,
they passed the Severn and spoiled Breck-
nock in 896.

Bernard de Newmarch took possession of the
province of Brecknock after a conquest, which

D d

198

he was permitted to achieve after the success
of Fitzhamon, and the death of Rhys-ap-
Tewdor, in the time of Henry I. he is sup-
posed to have founded the castle.

When William de Bruce was lord of Breck-
nock, his uncle, Henry of Hereford, was
murdered by some chieftains of Gwent, in the
reign of Henry II ; and in retaliation for the
deed, William gave an invitation to Seisyllt-
ap-Dyfnwall, his son Geoffry, and others, to
Abergavenny as to an entertainment, but in
the mean time had the house of Seisyllt
burnt, his son ( an infant ) killed in the
presence of the mother, whom he had also
conveyed to his castle.

Trahern the little, a chieftain of Brecknock,
was assassinated by William de Bruce, a Nor-
man lord, in the reign of Richard I.

Brecknock was besieged in the reign of
Henry III. by Llewellyn, anno 121 6: but it

199

was afterwards raised, and mutual compromises
made by the parties. (Fide page 127).

Llewellyn having ignominiously put to death
William de Bruce, then lord of Brecknock,
Henry of England summoned Llewellyn to
appear before him, but he not complying, and
acting with hostility, the king sent governors
into Wales, and treated the Welsh with some
cruelty, under the plea of conquest in 1231 ;
Llewellyn on this made himself (among others)
master of Brecknock fortress,

The country between, Brecknock and Here-
ford was greatly devastated by the contending
parties of the king and the earl of Leicester,,
in conjunction with Llewellyn. It may be here
observed, that in the succeeding reign of Ed-
ward, Llewellyn lost all power excepting by
favor of the king, and was afterwards slain at
Bualth, from which time the principality became
affixed to England's crown ; but those parts
which constituted the strength of the place and

200

security to the town, are now so dilapidated,
that we may,

" Deep struck with awe, now mark the dome o'erthrown,
" Where once, the beauty bloomed, the warrior shone ;
" And see the castle's mouldering towers decayed,
" The loose stone tottering o'er the trembling shade."

The castle is separated from the town by
the river Tarrel, over which there is a narrow
bridge. At the east end of the town is the
college, which had originally been a Dominican
priory, but converted by Henry VIII. who stiled
it " the college of Christchurch, Brecknock/'
having added to it the college of Abergilu, it
remains at this time, consisting of the bishop
of St. David, as dean, a precentor, treasurer,
chancellor, and nineteen prebendaries ; three of
the bishops were buried here, viz. Mainwaring,
Lucy, and Bull ; the walks are wonderfully
pleasant, and shew that the monks were pretty
well acquainted with the benefit of pleasant
circumstances to enliven their hours of recre-
ation ; the river close by can scarcely be seen.

201

, /

but its murmuring course may be very dis-
tinctly heard, and its romantic scenery affords
an agreeable resort for the present inhabitants
of the town.

The church is an handsome edifice in the
form of a cross, has side ailes in the body,
but none in the chancel, and the cloisters
may still be seen, which originally joined it
to the priory: the inhabitants are numerous,
and the many respectable edifices bespeak its
prosperity, and I should deserve to be branded
with ingratitude did I neglect to offer my
thanks to the Rev. RICHARD DAVIS, chief
magistrate of the place, not only for his hos-
pitality, but trouble in pointing out any thing
worthy of attention. No sooner had I left
Brecon, but the scenes became enriched with
every object that can diversify landscape in
the most picturesque effect, and all the pro-
ductions of the earth were embellishing the
vale in abundant fertility, beautifully intersected .
by vernal enclosures, tinged with all the
colours most grateful to the sight, and flourish-

202

ing from the industrious attention paid to
agriculture : through this smiling plain the
meandering Usk winds its rippling face in every
fantastic curvature, and finely contrasting the
regular and glassy surface of the canal, which
appears sullen by the conscious superiority of
the celebrated river; on each side the banks
rise with graceful ascent, and break into a
rich prospect of ornamented and cultivated
nature, spotted with numerous small residences
seated on its bosom; the valley is spacious,
and receives an additional grace by being
sprinkled with edifices all arrayed in white ;
picturing the sweet blessings of content, pre-
senting a most garnished view, arrayed in the
gay attire" of nature, and making it impossible
to do justice to such scenery by any attempt
of mine in description; when I considered
the amazing product likely to be obtained,
I could not but recollect with pleasure, the
following energetic lines on the security
this kingdom enjoys, in respect to the pro-
perty of individuals, in every station of their
occupations.

203

*' Oh happy plains, remote from war's alarms,

" And all the ravages of hostile arms !

" And happy shepherds, who, secure from fear,

" On open downs, preserve your fleecy care!

" Where spacious barns groan with increasing store,

" And whirling flails disjoint the cracking floor,

" No barbarous soldier, bent on cruel spoil,

" Spreads desolation o'er your fertile soil ;

" No trampling steed lays waste the ripening gram,

" No crackling fires devour the promised gain :

" No flaming beacons cast their blaze afar,

** The dreadful signal of invasive war ;

" No trumpet's clangor wounds the mother's ear,

" And calls the lover from his swooning fair.

" The happy fields, unknown to noise and strife,

" The kind rewarders of industrious life."

Near the fifth mile stone on the left, by
the road side, is a venerable monument of an-
tiquity, which is nearly involved in obscurity;
it is of a cylindrical form, about five feet high,
on which the traces of a few Roman letters
still remain, though time has bestowed much
pains to destroy its dumb eloquence ; it is
by some supposed to be a sepulchral pillar:
Camden takes notice of it, and describes the

characters to have been N filius Vic-

torini, and bishop Gibson likewise mentions

204

the stone, but no certainty, from either
them or the stone itself, can now be had,
and it is with some difficulty that VICTOR
can be clearly distinguished, so all conjec-
ture for what purpose or by whom erected
must be superfluous ; of its antiquity alone
we can be certain, but the great destroyer
of all will perhaps soon erase every mark
now remaining, and consign the whole to

oblivion.

i •

The nearer approaches of the road became
more wooded, but not less agreeable, and
while the eye was viewing such a series of
delights from the prospects, the fragrant flow-
ers of the entwining honeysuckle, were filling
the air with the sweetness of its perfume, to
add to the gratification of another sense; to
the right is the house of Mr. WYNNIS, cal-
led Buckland ; on the left the ride receives
no inconsiderable ornament from a vast sheet
of water, called Lan-gos-pool : near the ele-
venth mile stone the remain of a castellated
object, called Tretwr, hands itself to notice by

205

peeping above numerous trees in the midst of
a small village ; it does not appear a very
ancient structure, but the nearer I approached^
the more my attention was demanded; not
only by the elegance of its tower, but the
yellow tint left from the pencil of corroding
time ; nothing remained but the ruined circu-
lar shell, and a few vestiges of ancient modes
of defence which once enclosed it, were partly
hidden from the eye by a luxuriant mantle of
ivy, while another was in a declining posture,

E e

206

not so much from the decay of time, as from
the wanton barbarity of the incurious. Ne-
glected pile ! scarce any history to record, or
tradition to relate that thou once hadst fame !
but surely disgrace had not blotted out thy
name, as being one of those links not forged
for the strength of the country, but as a chain
to bind the liberty of the subject in the cru-
elty of feudal times, a shackle to fetter nature
and curb its freedom ! There is but one cir-
cumstance which I could find relating to it ;
that is, during Glendwr's rebellion, Henry IV.
confided it to James Berkley, from which we
may conclude the structure owes its demolition
to that chief. Of the village, there is nothing
else of consequence to detain a traveller.

Continuing onwards, every step affords a
various prospect rendered beautiful by change,
and more delightful by variety; yet, paradox-
ical as it may seem, it is still a sameness,
but that sameness, from its incessant loveliness,
not only animates the eye, but enlivens the
mind ; the mansion, the village, the cottage,

207

were sprinkled on the confines of the stream,

all tinted in white, as emblematical of internal

neatness, and I could not help infringing on

a commandment by coveting the lowly roof

of one of the latter, but not without wishing

the present proprietor was benefited by the

loss of it. There is one peculiarly attractive,

being the residence of Admiral GJELL (and I

must beg leave to adopt the sentiments flowing

from the elegant pen of Mr. Skrine), " dis-r

" tinguished for the beauty of its position, the

" singularity of its structure, and the eccentric

" benevolence of its worthy owner, who, retired

" with well earned fame from the active duties

(e of his profession, here gladdens the heart of

" the villager by his liberality, and is justly

*( esteemed by the whole country,"

»

Opposite to the last-mentioned place, by
the road side, and one mile distant, stands a
cromlech, an immense flat stone, supported
by four others, supposed to have been dedi-
cated to, and employed in the rites of Drui-
dical religion, a record of v savage barbarity

208

%

where human sacrifices are said to have been
offered to their deities ; and when I reflected
that this might have been stained by their
horrid rites of superstition, as the blood of
men was considered more acceptable than that
of animals, perhaps it might have been reeking
with human gore, I could not resist pitying
their barbarous zeal as considering it a sanction
whereby every species of vice was washed away.

I nor#" entered Crick-howell, or as others
stile it Crug-hy wel, and found it a neat though
small town, situated near the Usk, over which
there is a bridge of fourteen arches ; the
inhabitants boast of the salubrity of this situ-
ation, and informed me they were frequently
resorted to by numerous visitors, for the
benefit of pure air and assistance of goat's
milk whey ; they appear to enjoy of the
necessaries and comforts of life a very consi-?
derable share ; and as far as I was concerned
in acquiring, found as reasonable as most
parts of this country ; and the habitations alto-
gether were very respectable.

209

At a little distance from the extremity of
the town, and rather out of the road, are the
remains* of an ancient castle, called by some -

Alisby castle, but from its present appearance
scarce any regular information can be gained,
but is now interesting only as

• Time's gradual touch

" has mouldered into beauty many a tower,

" which, when it frowned with all its battlements,

f was only terrible."

and instead of the shew of defence, now prc-

sents a few unprotected walls interspersed with
ivy. In Glendwr's rebellion, the king of En-
gland entrusted this castle to John Pouncefort;
the keep is somewhat in the manner of Cardiff,
mounted on an artificial eminence, but divested
of all security to itself or surrounding remnants,
which appear to be subjected to the use of the
neighbouring people, for constructing or repairing
their dwellings ; in all probability, this castle was
destroyed by Glendwr, and never after rebuilt.

/

On the mountain called Carno, but a
small distance from hence, was fought the
.battle between Ethelbald and the force of Gla-
morgan in 728, but the contest was not ended
by the particular success of either party ; the
appearance of the country resembled what I
have before observed, and continued in the
same species of scenery, changing every mo-
ment into some new beauties, and every instant
disclosing the profuse gifts of nature teeming
with fertility, and every house and person
avowing the enjoyment of content and happi-r
ness; and

211

" The lucid Usk the enamoured eye pursues

" along the expanse, the undulating line

" that nature loves, whether with gentle bend

" she slopes the vale, or lifts the gradual hill,

" winds the free rivulet, or down the bank

" spreads the wild wood's luxuriant youth, or breaks'

" with interrupting heights the even bound

" of the outstretch'd horizon.

" gradual up the height

" of the rough hills, ascending Ceres leads

" the patient step of labour ; the wide heath,

" where once the nibbling flock scant herbage cropt,

" waves in the bieeze, with golden harvests crown'd I"

Near the summit of the grassy hills
observed small white hillocks, where I was
informed lime-kilns had formerly been ; and
when all the stone well within their reach
had been exhausted, the structures were re-
moved into more convenient situations, and
are supposed to be the remains of labor two
centuries past.

I now entered Abergavenny, a town of
much respectability, considerable in size, replete
with all conveniences, and a thoroughfare to
an extensive part of Wales and northern

212

counties. It has the character of gaining cele-
brity from the resort of many persons, as well
of fashion as invalids for the purpose, with
which most follow the custom to other places
of annual migration, health, variety, and recre-
ation : at the same time it is to be considered,
there are not the usual appendages here, as at
many others, of minerals or bathing waters ;
but if rural retirements are sufficiently attrac-
tive, and the mind can be satisfied with the
scenery and peculiarities of a hilly or moun-
tainous situation, I confess it is a place in
most respects applicable, and as reasonable in
the articles of food and convenience as any I
am acquainted with. It boasts of age, and in
conjunction with others, has borne numberless
vicissitudes; it stands on a gentle rising ground
at the foot of the Berry, and watered by the
sinuous and limpid Usk, over which is a fine
bridge of fifteen arches. It is stated to have
been once a corporated town, and considerable
in population; it is well peopled, although
several branches of trade have of late years
been lost ; and is a small traffic in flannels

213

i

and shoes, which are sent to Bristol for ex-
portation still remains.

When William III. acquired the government
of this realm, Abergavenny is said to have
been rather against it, and in consequence
they lost their charter; but the neighbouring
iron-works in some measure are beginning to
bring this place into more importance than it
has for many years experienced ; and the sur-
rounding eminences seem to promise a long
and great supply of ore to continue the
concerns, of which these are the principal ;
viz. Blanaevon, Beaufort, Serhowy, and Elber-
Vale, and the numerous streams descending
from the hills are calculated to encourage any
establishment which requires the aid of water.

The town was once walled, and had a
castle of considerable size, most delightfully
situated on an eminence which commands the
town, and contributes to the pleasure of an
extensive prospect: the ruins may now be a
guide to a great share of truth in ascertaining

F f

214

the original form and extent ; and though not
nearly so much surrounded by wood, or its
wall so profusely covered by the clinging ivy,
as many relics of other fortresses are, yet it
Is an interesting subject for observations and
contemplation, now mouldering and presenting
to the view the fate of former grandeur and
security ; erected by Hameline de Baladun, one
of the Norman adventurers, who acquired
Abergavenny (the ancient Gobannium of the
Romans) by conquest, and endeavoured to give
it an appearance of n permanent settlement.

215 j,.

In 1177 the castle was chosen by William
de Bruce, (a lord of Brecknock), for the
duplicity of entertaining Seisyllt, whilst De
Bruce burnt the house of his guest, murdered
his infant son, and confined the wife, in reta-
liation for the assassination of Brace's uncle ;
for this the castle was afterwards stormed,
and the governor, his wife, and garrison, with
the fortress, destroyed ; and De Bruce narrowly
escaped.

In 1202, when Llewellyn gave a blow to
the independence of Wales by swearing fealty
to the English, and submitting the territory
to feudal principles, some occasion of jealousy
occurred, and expeditions against Wales were
the consequence, when Bruce obtained Aber-
gavenny.

When Henry IV, headed an army in the
north during Glendwr's rebellion, among other
castles confided to persons of fidelity in the
marches, &c. we find Abergavenny was entrusted
to Sir William Beauchamp.

216

The castle and lordship were enjoyed *by
his son Richard, but he dying in consequence
of a wound in 1420, the castle and lordship
became the right ( as settled by a will of
Sir William's, on failure of issue male by his
son ) of Richard, earl of Warwick, the favo-
rite of Henry V. afterwards his son. Henry
succeeded and had additional honours given
him, by being created duke of Warwick, with
privilege to wear a golden coronet ; he did
not enjoy them long, for dying in the 22d
year of his age, the possession fell to

Richard Nevill, brother to the late duke.

The duke of Clarence was the next posses-
sor of the castle, and on his attainder it was
taken to by

Richard III. — at his death it was restored to

The widow of the earl of Warwick, who in
a short time was compelled to surrender it by
deed to

217 .

I

Henry VII. who granted it to

\

The earl of Pembroke, created duke of Bed-
ford ; from him it reverted to the "crown. —
Henry VIII. restored it to the heirs of its old
possessors, the Nevills ; which afterwards cre-
ated some dispute to whom it should of right
belong, as the family were divided, and the
barony of Le Despenser belonged equally to
them ; this was decided by granting the barony
of Abergavenny to the male, and Le Despenser
to the female branch, but precedence to the
latter ; and by lineal descent, the present earl is
the possessor.

This castle has the same privilege as Arun*
del, that of giving the dignity of baron to its
possessor, exclusively of any other creation.

I am not certain of the time or cause which
reduced the pile to ruins, but conceive it is
not improbable that Glendwr's rebellion was
the original means of its destruction, for it is
\vell known that bold chief seldom spared any

218

edifice which lay in the way of his designs,
or afforded protection to his opponents ; and
those which escaped or had repaired injuries
from him, met (with very few exceptions) a
final overthrow from the rage and barbarity of
Oliver Cromwell.

Many years ago this town had three churches ;
of which, one only, called St. Mary's, is now
appropriated for the service in English ; this
was once attached to the priory founded by
Hameline de Barham (or Baladun) for black
Monks of the French order ; * in it are
many curious monuments of antiquity, and of
noble and ancient families ; but to enumerate
them or to give description, would not be
very interesting, and the guide will fully ex-
plain them : — Another church is in being, but
very decayed, and is solely used by the Welsh.
The traveller who has time, and wishes to
have a distant and luxuriant display of nature,
will be amply compensated by ascending either
of the eminences of the Blorenge, Great Skyr-

' » Camdcii.

219

rid, or the Sugar-Loaf ; the latter is the highest,
being 1852 feet above the mouth of the
Gavenny which discharges its waters into the
Usk, a short distance from the town ; neither
of them are so far situated as to be fatiguing
in the journey, or difficult to accomplish.

Leaving Abergavenny you keep by the side
of the ground belonging to the park of Sir
HANBURY WILLIAMS, where fine groves of
trees were, fancifully dispersed, and the place
receiving every charm from the improving hand
of art ; but the mouldering pillars at the
entrance gate spread a gloom over the mind,
as representing mutes mournfully lamenting a
fallen state : behind it the Little Skyrrid rears
its variegated head, embellished with every
feature that can tend to delight, and perhaps
exhibiting the finest specimen of adorned na-
ture by tufted shrubs and a luxuriancy of
fertility. The vale became more expanded and
variegated by the fantastic Usk, which was
not only abundant in water, but limpid and
refreshing. Fancy had stretched forth her hand,

220

and combined all the beauties of art tastefully
strewed on those of nature ; and beautiful as
the whole of the ride had been from Brecon,
it was here out-done, all her store having been
exhausted in presenting an expanse of the
most pleasing intermingled beauties. Never did
I see a country more designed for happiness,
or formed to- smile misfortunes away ; and with
a neat residence just large enough to hold
one who could felicitate in the surrounding
beauties, it would appear a terrestrial paradise.

At the fifth mile stone on the right is the
seat of the Rev. Dr. HOOPER, with every
suitable and interesting embellishment : on the

left is the neat cottage of GREEN, Esq.

Beyond it a plantation of firs by the road
side bespoke ,the approach to a mansion of
elegance, the entrance to which was through
a light arch of gothic architecture, tastefully
embellished. Clytha the seat of W. JONES,
Esq. here presents itself, adorned with every
appendage that opulence could furnish ; la-
menting to find its possessor from home, of

221

whom I wished to have requested a sight of
the castle, (whose top is only seen from
the house, being excluded by embowering trees,)
a respectable person belonging to the establish-
ment not only assured me permission, but re-
quested to be my attendant : through a beautiful
pleasure-ground the path is laid out with much
taste and judgment, not only to render the
ascent as easy as possible by its gentle curvatures,
but grateful by the perfume of fragrant shrubs
planted by its side; seats were stationed in
different situations, and openings cut to catch
pleasing views, and every fancy which genius
could bestow had been applied, to render it
a peculiar charm to the eye, and artfully to'
conceal the castle from view, 'till its nearest
approach.

.

The structure is gothie, in a beautiful stile
of architecture, situated on the summit of a
hill, which displays a feature of landscape, com-
manding attention and admiration, formed for
intellectual and serene enjoyment, contempla-
tion, and pensiveness, with such charms as only

G g

222

to be outshone by the elegance of its internal
decorations ; the views from it are exquisitely
beautiful, and the distant hills formed an am-
phitheatre attired in azure mist. The residence
of Dr. HOOPER, is from hence peculiarly at-
tractive, and the grounds in its rear are so
tastefully displayed, that they would not allow
of any further capability of improvement. On
descending the hill my well-informed attendant
not only requested me to rest myself at the
mansion, but partake of refreshment, and urged
me with so much warmth, that it spoke the
wishes of his own feelings, and the innate hos-
pitality of the generous possessor of Clytha,
that I could scarcely resist accepting it: re-
ceiving, such peculiar attention from a total
stranger, filled me with sensations of surprize,
but when I reflected it proceeded fr.om the
characteristic hospitality of the country, makes
language become too feeble to express my
thanks; nor could I leave a place at which
such marked attention was shewn, without se-
cretly enjoying a peculiar satisfaction, although
unable sufficiently to express my sense of it.

223

On the left is Lanarth, whose possessor is nearly
allied by the ties of blood to Clytha; and indeed
it likewise bespoke its kindred by a resemblance
in elegance.

On reaching the summit of the hill, I could
not resist casting a look back on the parts I
had left; the view, though changed, had ac-
quired (if possible) additional beauties; a more
extensive sight of the meandering Usk was
adding graces to the upper part of the vale, by
its capricious and fantastic form; looking down
the vale it seemed to take its farewell, and
dignifiedly retired, gliding behind a fertilized
hill peculiar in richness, and diversified with
every thing that scenery admits.

*' Here lawns extend that scorn Arcadian pride,
/ " And brighter streams than fam'd Hydaspis, glide;
" Here all around the gentlest breezes play,
" Here gentlest music melts on every spray :
" Creation's mildest charms are here combined ;
" Extremes are only in the viewer's mind."
j

Leaving the direct road to Monmouth, which
breaks off to the left, kept to the right to
visit Ragland, whose ivy'd walls presenting every

224

vegetable tint, soon appeared in view, and made
me pause with admiration; and its bold appear-
ance warmed my imagination with the most
lively impressions of delight by its extensive
and ponderous remains, which seemed to
resemble the work of supernatural agency.

Ragland, to a stranger on his journey, appa-
rently is on low ground, but an inspection of
the ruins is sufficient to do away any such
idea; it will be found in reality an elevated
place, and commanding an extent of view
truly surprising, and as agreeable as they are
diversified : indeed, as I expected no such
gratification, it was the more pleasing, and from
this trifling matter I had additional regret that
so noble an edifice should have met such an
undeserved fate. The vast grandeur of the
original building, and most of the appendages,
may be easily conceived, although the means
of entertainment are no more ; the venerable
relics can now only ajd the reflective mirrd to
the ^stress occasioned by warfare, and lieight-

ened on the consideration of having been im-

'

225

brucd in brother's blood: of all commotions
to which the fate of nations is liable, not
the least horrid is that of civil tumult ; its
rancour scarcely ever smoothed, but by the
destruction of the opposite, and the spoil of
every thing which had been owned by the vic-
tim to its security ; nor were the excesses
committed on the more peaceful, less destructive
than the savage demolition of rage and bar-
barity, stimulated from revenge ; of . defence
and slaughter. This place is one among the
numerous proofs of the devastating principle of
stormy faction, and exhibits proud remnants of
popularity and firm attachment to an honest
cause. In surveying the extent of the ruins,
and the numerous communications from one
part to another, we must naturally be surprised
at the infinitude of labor exerted to form it ;
and we are also led to conjecture that our
ancestors had a greater knowledge of binding
their materials together to withstand decay, and
prove a greater difficulty for man to disjoin,
than the present age is master of : I could
cot but observe this was in a great measure

the case here, as at Caerphilly, that to the
strength of the cement we are beholden for the
remains of the mansion ; for the extreme diffi-
culty of separating the stones from it, preserves
the compacted masses from the pilfering hand
which would long since have destroyed them ;
and not improbably as well from destructive
inclinations, as to be subservient for their
purposes of building or repairing their several
dwellings.

The date of founding this building cannot
be with certainty stated, and though it is said
to be of no great antiquity, yet I presume
this arises from the many modern ornaments
discoverable in various parts of its ruins ; my
opinion is that a baronial residence had been
long established here, enlarged upon, and con-
structed as circumstances required, and the owner
found suitable. It has been said that it had
its origin in the reign of Henry VII. but this
most assuredly is an error, since we can find
in history that even in the reign of Henry II.
3 period previous of 330 years, the castle and

227

manor of Ragland was given to Walter Bloet,*
afterwards confirmed to Sir James Berkley, who
married Bloet's daughter ; but in a pedigree of
the Beaufort family, inserted at length by Mr.
Coxe, it begins in the reign of Richard II.
and continues in direct order to the present
heir ; both these circumstances therefore clearly
demonstrate an early origin of the building ;
of the occasion of its downfall, it had scarce
need be said, that it was in the unhappy time
of Charles I. but for an explicit account there-
of, and many curious particulars relating to the
family, with a description of its ancient apart-
ments, I must recommend the traveller to a
small but sufficiently explicit tract, compiled
and published by Mr. HEATH, of Monmouth,
and which may also be had in the village ; suf-
fice it therefore to say, that these magnificent
ruins are entitled to the honour of being one
of the last fortresses which held out in favour
of Charles I. and to be more highly considered
of when it is known not to have been a castle
in the strict sense of the word, but as a noble

* Dugdald

228

baronial residence strengthened and defended
for the purpose of loyally giving refuge to an
unfortunate sovereign, and bearing the troubles
consequent thereon ; of the munificence or
magnificence of its dignified owner it would
be scarcely believed, were it not well attested
on the historic page, and however unfortu-
nate it ended still redounds to credit, and an
honourable testimony of loyalty, bravery, and
perseverance; and it must be satisfactory to
relate, that in order to perpetuate the events
of those days, and contribute to the preser-
vation of these venerable remains, the present
proprietor has strictly enjoined a forbearance to
plunder, or otherwise deface them.

'

Those who feel an innate pleasure in being
amongst ruins, and recapitulating in their mind
the numerous vicissitudes to which it might,
have been' liable, will here find ample en-
couragement to their reveries. The sublime
appearance of the ivy-mantled walls, the beauti-
ful south entrance, and stately chambers, are
truly in a state sufficiently adverting to the

229

rapine of men, and slow but sure efforts of
corroding time. This place has something
beyond many other buildings of the nature to
occupy our attention by the records of its
destruction, having been so carefully preserved,
and the epoch not so distant ; but (in a
manner) we may receive information from the
relatives of the party who, in some shape or
other, were employed in the business : under
these circumstances Ragland will stand foremost

H h

as a place worthy the curiosity of travellers,
and will affbrcl a fund for observation, both
pleasant and striking. The reverence due to
such a pile will arise not only from the situ-
ation in which it now appears with all the
characters of splendour, which e'en the destroy-
ing hand of time will give ; but from the part
it has borne in a scene of incessant turbulence
and general confusion ; nor can the accidents

of warfare deprive it of the glory it undoubt-
edly has acquired from the defence of its noble
and generous commander. Nature, ever busy,
has long and unceasingly been at, work, and
decorated the remains with a profusion and
variety of elegancies ; trees of almost every
sort, and shrubs of numerous kinds, have been,
and are still growing in the vacancies where
splendid hospitality once reigned; and its once
beautiful and well levelled terraces no longer
to be seen, by all the soil generating luxuriant
weeds ; here the feathered tribes are now
the inhabitants of places in which the trans-,
actions of a kingdom have been canvassed,
estimated accordingly.

231

" O thou, who mid the world-involving gloom,

" Sitt'st on yon solitary spire ;

" Or slowly shak'st the sounding dome,

" Or hear'st the wildly warbling lyre ;

" Say, when thy musing soul,

" Bids distant times unroll,

" And marks the flight of each revolving year —

" Of years, whose slow consuming power,

" Has clad with moss yon leaning tower,

" That saw the race of glory run,

" That mark'd ambition's setting sun,

" That shook old empire's tow'ring pride,

" That swept them down the floating tide ;

" Say, when these long-unfolding scenes appear,

" Streams down thy hoary cheek the pity-darting tear ?" >

,

Three miles beyond Ragland on the right,
is Dynastow court, which has had somewhat to
do in the early concerns of the country; for
I find it mentioned as being the place to which
the enraged party (after the storming of Aber-
gavenny was concluded) came and made a gene-
ral carnage, of which Ranulph the Governor,
and other active defenders fell the victims.
This could not have been a fortress of conse-
quence at any time, were we to judge from
appearance; nor is it likely to have been
otherwise than a manor-house erected in the

232

lumbering stile of the times, though it is
stated as a castle on the decapitation of the
earl of Pembroke, anno 1469, among the places
he died possessed of; it came afterwards into
the family of Jones, from whom it was
purchased by Mr. Duberly, and is now the
residence of SAMUEL BOSANQUET, Esq ; of
London.

At the end of three miles further I entered
Monmouth, after passing a scope of that elegant
scenery peculiar to South Wales, of which
I know -not whether to admire most the
different gradations of light and shade, or
brilliant or gloomy rays of the sun; all had
their charms, all had their effect, and in
every situation and character portrayed inces-
sant elegancies and gratifying assemblage.

Monmouth, situated on the rivers Monnow
and Wye, presents to the traveller a variety of
pleasing and animating landscapes, placed nearly
central among a number of eminences. There
i* scarce any spot from which the town does

233

not appear to advantage ; and where beauty
is deficient, singularity is prominent; the two
bridges so different in construction, form a
contrast as pleasing as diversified, and the one
that bestrides the former, hands itself to par-
ticular notice by the venerable gateway that is
seated on it ; its high antiquity is very evident,
and the era of its construction prior to the
conquest. It is to be regretted that the nu-
merous specimens of our forefathers' labour,
should be considered so disgustful to the mo-

dern eye, and condemned to be no more • this
has induced me to represent this remnant of
their care, to preserve it in the memory of*
the1 curious. The elegant appearance of the
tower and spire of the church, with the rich-
ness of the woods rising over each other from
the silvery meandering streams, give such an
effect to the scene, as at once to captivate the
heart, and dispose the contemplative mind to
unutterable enjoyment. The town is governed
by a mayor and two bailiffs, under a charter
derived from Edward VI. in the year 1549,
and sends a member to parliament in conjunc-
tion with the burgesses of Newport and Usk.
There is a free school in the place, founded
by William Jones, who had been a haber-
dasher in London, and one among the for-
tunate number who from obscurity rose to
opulence and respectability ; the master has a
house, and 90!. per year ; the usher a house
and 45l. per year. There are also alms-
houses for twenty persons, each of whom has
3s. 6d. per week ; and the clergyman, for offi-
ciating, inspecting, &c. has a house and garden

235

and 1051. per year : when we consider the
value of money at the time of its foundation,
which was in the reign of James I. it will
speak the generosity and liberality of the
endower.

On the banks of the Monnow, and near
the bridge, is the very ancient church dedi-
cated to St. Thomas ; almost all the features of
the building indicate that its original foundation,
was in the Saxon aera, and from time tq time
intermixed with the stile of such ages as were
engaged in its reparation; it is now a chapel
of ease to St. Mary, (the other church,) and
Tuesdays are appointed for the service. The
town is independent of the county, but in the
jurisdiction of the duchy of Lancaster ; was
originally walled round, and had four gates ;
there was likewise a suburb (in the latter of
which was St. Thomas before-mentioned,) and
excepting on the river side, was surrounded by
a ditch of considerable depth. Camden says,
(t the town was of much importance at the
" time of the conquest," previous to which it

236

is supposed the castle was founded, which no
doubt was the residence of the lord of those
parts, (some are inclined to think it was much
later in its foundation and name,) John, lord
of Monmouth, who was deposed (for adhering
to the rebellious barons) by Henry III. How-
ever consequential it might formerly have been,
and appropriated to military or benevolent pur-
poses, but a very trifling remnant is left ; and
one among a multitude to silently admonish us
of the futile endeavour to rear edifices to

237

/ ,• ^

withstand the corroding influence of insatiate
time, or remain unmantled by the caprice of
man ; vague .and indeterminate must be any
elaborate attempt to describe an account of its
original plan and apartments, as the various
attacks it has borne, and the' decay of the
remainder leave nothing to entitle us to success.
The first particular account of consequence
relating to it is to be found during the reign
of Henry III. who having a dispute with his
barons, several of them joined in alliance with
Llewellyn, the nominal prince of Wales ; the
Welsh, headed by the earl of Pembroke, sur-»
prized the English army at Grosmont, and
defeated them, but neglected to profit in st
proper manner by destroying its castle ; and
leaving it, went on with the army to Mon-
mouth : but while the earl was with his knights
reconnoitring this castle, the commander, Bald-
win 4e Guisnes, sallied out with the Flemings and
Poicterians, and charged them with such fury
as had nearly proved fatal to the earl, and
was only prevented by Baldwin being badly
wounded, which retarded his exertions and caused

I i

238

i *

confusion ; so that the army of his antagonist
had time to arrive to their leader's relief. Hen-
ry on the whole was no great gainer by his
efforts to control the Cambrians, for Pembroke
and Llewellyn carried devastation every where
with themj and procured favorable conditions
pn. a peace : in this reign

*

John de Monmouth was proprietor of the
castle, who resigned it to

Edward, prince of Wales ; pn his surrender
it was granted to his brother,

Edmund, Earl of Lancaster ; from whom it
descended to his son,

Henry III ; who dying in 1345, bis son
Henry, created

.
Duke of Lancaster, succeeded ; who left

two daughters, Maud and Blanch ; the former
dying, the property devolved on Blanch, who
married

239

John of Gaunt, who of course enjoyed the-
castle, and made it his favourite residence ;
as did also his son who became king of En-
gland, by the title of

Henry IV. whose son,

Henry V. was born here August Q, 1387,
and surnamed, in consequence, of Monmouth;
from him

Henry VI. but on his attainder

Edward IV. had it, and granted it within
five years to

William Herbert, created earl of Pembroke ;
but it again reverted to the crown, and became
the property of

Henry VII. as a parcel of the duchy of
Lancaster; but on the separation of several
estates from the duchy the property has since
become divided, and the castle has been in the

240

Beaufort family for many years, and the pre-
sent duke is the proprietor.

At this castle the unfortunate Edward II.
\vas confined, previous to his removal to Ken-
nilworth by his infamous queen, anno 1326.

Irt 1646 it was taken by Oliver Cromwell's
forces, but treachery had a considerable share
in the business ; and it is related that when
Oliver himself came afterwards to Monmouth,
a man by the name of Evans attempted to
shoot him, but was prevented by persons near.
All its high honours are now buried in the
dust, and going as rapidly to oblivion as is
its once celebrated castle, of which so trifling
a portion remains, as leaves no traces to know
its original design ; the transmutations of time
are visible here in the present mode of em-
ploying scites, anciently famous for purposes
widely different ; all hastening to the same
situation with which so many similar edifices
in the principality are found.

• TV!

241

** And e'en so fares it with the things of earth
" which seem most constant: there will come the cloud
*' that shall enfold them up, and leave their place
" a seat for emptiness."

William de Monemtic or Monmouth, is
said to have brought over a convent of Black
Monks from St. Florence, near Salmus in
Anjou, and placed them first in the church
of St. Cadoc, near the Castle, and afterwards
in the church of St. Mary;* at the suppres-
sion by Henry VIII. it was valued at 561.
Is. lid. per annum. There was an hospital of
the Holy Trinity, founded by John Monconuc,
in 1240, and also one to St. John. The church
stands on the ground where once the priory
stood, and is peculiarly neat and elegant, both
within and without; and the spire which is
200 feet in height, renders it a conspicuous
object from whichever point it is viewed,
among the surrounding enclosures; on the
whole, this town is an agreeable place, de-
lightfully situated between the rivers Monnow
and Wye, and contiguous to the Trothy :
over all three there are bridges, and the envi-

* D. Williams.

242

rons are celebrated far and near for sylvan
scenes and diversified beauty ; the inhabitants
are numerous and exceedingly respectable, have
various modes of entertainment, and socia-
bility is a just characteristic of the place.
Surrounded in every direction by the seats of
the opulent, and the residences of the hospi-
table, altogether it is a desirable situation, and
suitable to every rank in life.

Crossing the bridge which bestrides the river
Wye, a lofty bank presents itself, variegated
with fine coppice wood and smiling agriculture,
small enclosures, and the occupation of humble
industry, with a large uncultivated tract vege-
tating only furze, interrupted by huge masses
of rock; on the summit of this hill is a
summer-house called the Kymin, which, for
variety of beautiful prospects, is said to be
rivalled by few and out-done by none, forming
a Panorama of upwards of an hundred miles
in extent; the ascent to it has had an infinity
of pains bestowed to render it, by its windings,
as gentle as possible; there is an excellent road

243

for the convenience of carriages, with every
accommodating attention of seats, placed . not
only to allay the fatigue of foot visitors, but *
to present some delightful feature of landscape;
the summer-house is a circular embattled tower
of two stories ; in the upper apartment is every
suitable appendage to render it commodious:
parties either bring their cold collations, or
drink tea,« where proper regulations are made
for the comfort of the visitors, and a small
gratuity to a neat woman, to make it corres-
pond with herself.

At the distance of sixty yards from the
Bummer-house, is a national monument dedi-
cated to fame, ornamented with medallions of
several distinguished naval commanders, and
emblematical decorations of those safeguards
which are the pride and boast of every Eng- • .
lishman ; and at the opposite extremity of
the level is the Beaulieu grove, intersected with
numerous shaded walks. I shall forbear enu-
merating a description of the views, as -they
are accurately and pleasingly detailed by Mr..

244

C. HEATH, printer, at Monmouth. The day
on which I made this visit was brilliantly fine,
and the azure canopy added to the tints which
were decking with all the graces, undulating
groves with that congenial softness peculiar to
a country abounding in a sublimity of views ;
and the silvery stream of the Monnow was
uniting with the Wye, winding through dales
beautifully interlined, and hills cloathed with
various foliage ; entering j the grove, the traces
of the paths were bending in innumerable and
fanciful forms, with openings cut to unfold
glimpses of delight to. the eye.

After wandering over its mazy windings
refreshed by the cooling breezes of the shade,
at the extent of one of the most remote
walks, a well-dressed female was sitting in a
place which seemed formed for love and
contemplation ; I was hastily approaching her
with those respectful rules due to her sex, to
share the pleasure of the scenery, and partici-
pate in the grandeur of the subject surrounding
the empire of nature ; but what a chill did

245

my feelings suffer, to see her agitated by a
secret inquietude, and rising with an evident
wish to avoid me, (marked with a dignity
which not only demands respect, but sets
limits to a love of propriety ;) it bade me retire :
but a few steps had scarcely been measured for
that purpose, ere I felt a blush come across my
cheek, as a tint of reproach for seeing a woman
in affliction, without attempting to mitigate
her distress ; on this I approached, apologising
for intruding on her solitude, and assured her
it proceeded from the tumult of my feelings,
causing such a conflict to learn the cause of
her dejection, knowing well how to feel for the
sorrows of others; whether my looks were writ-
ten in the characters of the sincerity of my
heart, I know not ; but her animated fears fled,
and serenity kept wandering over a beautiful
face, where the bloom of the rose had yielded
to the delicacy of the lily. I soon found myself
imperceptibly seated by her side, her hand en-
closed in mine, and, stimulated by sympathy,
urging a recital of her woes by every powerful
effort of language I was master of; a tear stood

K k

trembling in her eye, as the herald of her sor-
rows, which she at length detailed with so fas-
cinating a voice, that made the heart run a
considerable risk while listening to her ; here I
must forbear, lest it may betray a confidence
reposed in me, but did I arraign my heart to
enquire what gave it most pleasure, it would
declare being instrumental in restoring happiness
to neglected virtue : having seen her to her resi-
dence, with a parting tribute, (as a harmless
mode of wiping sorrow away) bade her adieu,
being repaid by the gratification of my feelings.

On leaving Monmouth, I was desirous of
walking by the banks of the Wye to Tintern,
hearing I should be amply rewarded by the
enjoyment of delightful scenery ; having sent
my horse round, passed over the Wye bridge,
and pursued a rural foot-path turning by the
course of the river, which soon brought me
opposite Troy-House, a venerable seat of the
Duke of BEAUFORT ; its structure is not re-
markable for elegance, and only claims notice
from the number of its windows, convincing it

247

was long previous to the comforts for light
being rendered contributory to additional re-
sources of national revenue ; the bed of the
river was crossed by parallel ridges of rock
varying the capricious course of the stream,
and serving only to make it murmur dis-
content : the meadows I was passing were well
tenanted by the lively flock and lowing herd,
giving animation and a valuable interest to the
scenes around : the vale soon became con-
tracted, the Wye occupying nearly the whole
space, and opening a fresh scene of pleasure ;
on one side soft verdure enamelled with flowers
fertilizing the edge of the banks, and intermixed
with the lordly tenantry of stately trees ; the
other also in foliated attire to the confines of
the stream, presenting vernal tints of light and
shade, not within the limits of fancy to con-
ceive. Such repose seemed to reign here as
could not fail to waft the imagination from the
low materials of modern gratification to soar to
ideal enjoyments beyond the reach of terrestrial
action. A few cottages were peeping from the
side of the foot-path, and with the rustling of

248

leaves, the singing of birds, and murmuring of
the stream, filled up this romantic and soothing
picture. I could not resist looking back on a
view blended with variety ; and the lofty spire
of Monmouth church greatly elevated above
the river's boundary backed by a distant range
of mountains, the fore-ground beautifully deco-
rated by a stately tree standing on the margin
of the winding stream, offered a pleasing shade,
and disposed the mind for powerful impressions
of solitude.
.

On looking down the river beheld a con-
trast, the busy scene of Redbrook; here active
industry exerts her efforts, and though essential
in itself, and productive of \vealth, influence,
and consequence, yet can only be thought
(while viewed in such an enlarged situation) to
be rather an unwelcome intruder : the bustle
of the iron-works, from the labourers employed
in their different avocations, the vale filled with
columns of dark smoke, and the silence inter-
rupted by the noise of massive hammers echoing
from the opposite shore, obliterates every plea-

249

surable idea resulting from sequestered spots :'
beyond it are Lower Redbrook's tin works all in
gloom, and a mournful picture of misfortune ;
On enquiring a reason for the stagnation, heard it
was in litigation, the very name made a feeling
sigh escape, and lost no time in casting a look
on the opposite object which was a steep ascent,
variegated with wild rocks, stone quarries, and
irregularities, backed and hooded with lively
foliation ; the vale became increased, and the
hills pleasingly tufted with numerous trees, to
screen the neglected house of Pilson, was the
attempt of some, whose roof now appearing to
be humbled to a small farm, the fate of many
a manor-house, where bounty was, it is drudgery
now, and carries still the vestiges of former na-
tional hospitality. Beyond and on the opposite
shore is seated Bix Weir, the mansion of Gene-
ral ROOKE, M. P, for Monmouth, a descendant
from the gallant admiral of that name3 to whom
we are indebted for the possession of Gibraltar:
I felt a double interest in beholding it, first as
it was the residence of him who had been the
companion and sharer of perils with my own

250

father, secondly as a character distinguished by
universal regard, and where merit had reached
the summit of its profession ; 'adorned with ta-
lents as a commander, he possessed the art of
exercising his authority, hy acquiring the thanks
of the soldiers and the praises of the citizens,
while at Bristol, where he long resided as com-
mander of the Severn district, he received a testi-
mony of approbation by solid and valuable proofs.
The scenery about it affords every enjoyment
of delight fancy can devise, commanding all that
is pleasing, and all that is grand, with the variety
of ornamented views for which the river is cele-
brated; the hills luxuriantly mantled with wood,
with the castle and village of St. Briavel's
served as a crown to dignify the whole : the
diversified tinges of autumnal effect, give a pe-
culiar beauty to these romantic views, and we
regret not the fading hue, whilst it contributes to
embellish nature : the occasional openings display
considerable elegance, though seldom to a great
extent, but the adornings of the country are
but trivial in comparison to the wide, rough
grandeur which frequently exposes itself amidst

251

the wooded acclivities. I had now been some
time betwixt two lofty ridges abundantly clothed
with tufted trees, reflecting on each other
additional interchanges of inexhaustible beauty,
and heightened by the transparent stream re-
flecting the bounds which confined its course:
frequently I was amused by the dexterity of
those fishermen who used the coricle, a some-
what singular appearance, and apparently preg-
nant with clanger; the vehicle is calculated for
only one man, who sits in the middle with a
careful attention to the balance ; it is formed
of light ribs, secured by pitched canvas, and
managed by a paddle ; and certainly requires no
small share of caution to conduct it with
precision and safety, and I presume no timi-
dity must be thought on to encourage any
one to the attempt.

On leaving Bix Weir the path led rather
up the hill, consequently the view became
enlarged, and displayed a novel and singular
scene of a village rising as it were gradually
to the skies, with patches of inclosure, and

252

apple-trees intermixed ; the acclivity appeared
wholly covered in this surprising way, and
Landego is certainly a remarkable scene
among the. multitude on this charming river;
wood and a scanty covering of fern over the
stony face, was enclosed by a lofty bank, rising
in crescent form ; the side of the river now be-
came very lofty, beautifully romantic, and more
foliated, its brush-wood sweeping the hanging
clouds as they passed along; the carol of the
birds gave a continued concert, and made na-
ture appear to speak with unnumbered tongues,
that I could not resist creating a few respon-
ses to the plaintive notes of my flute ; invited
by the cooling shade of an orchard by the
side of the stream, I neglected to turn off
at Brook Weir, in the regular path to Tin-
tern, and I believe rather unwilling to leave
the sweet windings of the transparent Wye,
soon found myself beset on one side by an
almost impenetrable wood, and on the other
rude stones, rendered slippery from the mud
(left by high tides) totally unmarked by mortal
footsteps : persisting over this slippery and trea-

253

cherous path, in momentary expectation of a
cooling in the Wye, at length was amply
rewarded by the unparalleled views of Tintern's
noble ruins, forming a splendid object of ad-

miration and elegance of structure to a degree
of perfection, far exceeding any thing of the
kind I ever saw, ornamented with shrubs, and
tinted in colours peculiarly pleasing to age.

After applying to Mr. GETHIN, of the
Beaufort Arms, (who keeps the key) I hast-

Ll

254

ened to this grand and interesting structure,
witfr a mind filled with extreme delight, nor
was it bereft of ^ the highest gratification on
beholding the west front ; a stately window

•

)a;1

with all its divisions complete, was serving as
conductors to train the ivy in; the most dressy
form, while interstices were fostering other

255

small shrubs, and making the wondering eye
almost transport the imagination ; but my plea-
sure received a distressing interruption from
the number of beggars who flock round, and
I must acknowledge, the little given never went
with so ill a grace, as I am almost ashamed
to say, it was not so much from a charitable
view, as to be disencumbered from their intru-
sion on my contemplation ; never can I erase
from remembrance the sensation I felt on be-
holding the Interior of the abbey, on the
opening of the western door, and how very-
far my expectation, was exceeded ; I felt lost
by the elegance of the ruins in their peaceful
sequestered spot, ornamented by the wonderful
and bounteous hand of nature; .--it was truly
picturesque, and kept in a state of perfection,
equalled by 1*0 other desolated pile ; a level,
closew shorn, grassy surface was giving neatness

to the whole, and serving as a safeguard to the

"~
peaceful remains of those it was sheltering : no

.•

vestige of its roof was remaining ; its walls richly
ornamented with shrubs, and wreathing ivy

25$

hanging in graceful garlands ; on the southern
side a massive breadth was spreading from the
top to the bottom in the most fanciful ring-
lets ; and the pillars and arches displaying
much gothic elegance,, adorned by creeping
and small foliage: can I forget -the : east win-

-'("« uj
I

.
•

•' •','}'.' ;

.

dow? no — never ! — and perhaps such a speci-
men of exquisite workmanship the' world never
exhibited as this, when perfect, still so beauteous
now in decay ; it has amazing power to fascinate
the senses, but must to a certainty preclude a
true conception of its original ; the remaining
centre bar is perfect, which when seen at a
distance appears singularly taper, but on ap-
proaching is found of such a thickness as to
create surprise at the deception ; through this
arch the richly clothed hill is strikingly, grand,
and gives a noble effect to the internal parts
of the pile ; but here my pen, conscious of
its inability, drops from my hand; I take the
hint, and resign the task to those gifted with
the powers of fascinating language to do it
justice ; the day was most favorable to my
visit here, and I felt exhilarated by being
screened from the effects of the sun, but
the feathered creation enjoyed its blessing, and
were chaunting their praise : never was a situ-
ation so placed for religious retirement, and in
every respect so 'suitable for the purposes of
the fabric, and we may imagine the monks of

258

Tintern to express themselves in terms similar
to those of the plaintive bard:

fJJO

" Oh sacred solitude ! divine retreat I

" Choice of the prudent ! envy of the great !
" By thy pure stream, or on thy waving shade,
" We court fair wisdom, that celestial maid :

" The genuine offspring of her lov'd embrace,

f .
" (Strangers on earth,) are innocence and peace :

" Here from the ways of men laid safe ashore,
" We smile to hear the distant tempest roar ;
" Here blest with health, with business unperplex'd,
" This life we relish, and ensure the next."

.

Although the roof has fallen in, the interior
of the building may be very well conceived :
the arches and pillars of the choir are now
standing, with only the marks of age and deco-
rations of nature ; and where some of the
columns have tumbled, the corresponding still
stand, so that a person need be at no loss for
the form or ornament of the structure; the
shape of the west window is yet entire, and
most part of the frame work remains, nor will
any hesitation ensue to pronounce the taste
and beauty to have been extremely judicious
and grand ; the ( fond ivy' clings to the bars, and

259

the sides are enwrapt in the closest manner,
nay, nearly the whole of this beauteous relic
is, more or less, covered by masses uncom-
monly large of the faithful attendant on age
i

and decay ; an indistinct echo, produced by
the Wye breaking over protuberances of rock
which interrupt the stream, made me feel a
pleasure in sitting unseen, and enjoying the
pleasing pensive ideas which crouded on the
mind, by viewing the objects around, where

" August and hoary, o'er the sloping dale,

" The gothic abbey rears its sculptur'd tower* ;

" Dull through the pile resounds the whistling gale,

" And solitude among the pillars low'rs.

" Where yon old trees bend o'er a place of graves,

" And solemn shads- the ruin's sad remains,

" Where yon close ivy through the window waves,

" And, twining round, the hoary arch sustains."

The guide who attends the visitors, generally
presents them with the following account of it
for their perusal : — f This abbey, dedicated to
' God and the virgin Mary, was founded about
' the year 1131 by Walter Fitz-Richard de Clare,
4 lord of Caerwent and Monmouthshire. Richard

260

' de Clare, surnamed Strongbow, nephew to tha
e founder, gave divers lands and privileges to the
e abbot and monks hereof, who were of the Cis-
' tercian order, obliging them to pray for their
f souls, and those of his and his wife's ancestors.
' Roger de Bigot, earl of Norfolk, added to these

* benefactions. It has been famous for the tombs

* and monuments of several great persons ; prin-
s cipally of the aforesaid Walter de Clare ; Gilbert
c earl of Pembroke, brother to the founder ;
' Walter earl of Pembroke, and Marshal of Eng-
r land; and his brother Anselm, last earl of that
6 family; William Herbert, earl of Pembroke,
' who being in the disputes between the houses
e of York and Lancaster, was taken prisoner in
' Banbury fight, and being beheaded, lies buried
' here.'

The above, though a short history, is nearly
all that can with certainty be obtained; this,
like many other places, having had its archives
lost or destroyed: in all likelihood a valuable
account of it shared the fate of the Ragland
library in Cromwell's devastation ; e its length is

261

c 73 yards, the breadth of the body 13 yards
' and a half, of the north aisle 6, and the south
' aisle 6 ;' on the whole, the visitor will find
abundant gratification in viewing the magnifi-
cent pile, and cannot fail of receiving strong
impressions of sorrow to witness the decay of
the superb structure, the mutilated figures and
monumental records scarce perceivable from the
general mass ; the united effects of nature and
art give great scope to the flights of fancy,
though propriety is no where to be unobserved,
unless the circumstance of the smooth surface
we tread on, should be thought an improper
appendage to the surrounding walls ; setting this
aside, nature ' has made it her own, and works
incessantly with her curious hand to heighten
veneration; all its adornments are wonderfully
attractive, and when glowing in the colour of a
setting sun there are but few to equal it, none
to exceed ; and we may gaze with increasing
admiration and delight : so charming are the
surrounding scenes as to leave nothing to be
wished for by a contemplative mind, and all
contribute to inspire the soul with serious

M m

262

thoughts, divested of the cares of the active-
world, and foregoing with its toils all its diffi-
culties; amidst this desolated heap the memory
adverts to previous eras, and pictures the fel-
lowship of the religious within these walls, who
to regular attendance on their profession added
hospitality to the wandering, and the virtue of
the sage to the familiarity of the generous : to
the frivolous or gay the austerities of a monastic
life must appear with great severity, and truly
it required considerable resolution to adhere to
principles with such apparent strictness; how far
there was any inconsistent behaviour I am not
enabled to say, but judging from the rules and
habits which they bound themselves to con-
tinue in the practice of, and the known advan-
tages of which the neighbourhood of monasteries
reaped the benefit ; one cannot but admire their
institution, nor rashly condemn the whole for
the bad conduct of the few ; the Cistertian
order, of which Tintern was an establishment,
had the following routine : their dress — ' a white
' cassock with a narrow scapulary, and over that
* a black gown when they went abroad, but a

263

f white one when they went to church; to rise
' at midnight to go to matins, which continued
' two hours and a half, after which retire to
' rest for an hour or two, then rise again to
f meditate, and sing what they call prime, then
f work in the garden for two hours more, then
e sing terce and high mass, then dinner, after
6 which was half an hour recreation : during the

* rest of the day they iiad three separate times
f for church, to sing vespers, nones, and com-

* pline ; thus they could seldom or never have
6 three quarters of an hour to themselves ;'
such being the case, we cannot be surprised at.
their choosing a place in profound retirement,
uninterrupted by the confusion and turbulence,
inseparable from towns or iarge associations.
.Nothing could be more suitable for monastic
duties than this spot, \vhere all nature assisted
to inspire them, and so congenial to their
desires.

" So to the dark brr>w*d wood, or sac'red mount,
" In ancient days, the holy seers retired;
" And, kd in vision, drank at Siloe's fount,
•" WJiile rising ecstacies their bospms fired."

264

In the neighbourhood of this monastic edi-
fice, and but a short distance, ' is the manu-
factory for making wire, and well worth a
stranger's trouble to visit, who has not already
se.en such a process ; the wonderful increase of
iron works in this and the adjoining counties
reflects great honour on the undertakers and
improvers of the art, and the different purposes
to which that pliable and useful metal is appro-
priated are innumerable. One of the essential
matters is here exhibited, and carried on with
considerable spirit and ingenuity; from the pre-
sent mechanical . mode of conducting it, not
only a much larger quantity can be done in a
given time, but the labour of the man is con-
siderably eased, and the facility with which the
art is conducted is amusing and gratifying;
indeed, to the contrivances of men of genius
by inventing and aiding the powers of mechan-
ism, is to be attributed the surprising growth
of trade to which the kingdom has arrived, and
the superiority of the commodities for regula-
rity, beauty, goodness, and cheapness, so as to

265

become in quality and materials the admiration
of every nation: to describe with accuracy the
system of the performance here under consider-
ation is beyond my power, but no denial is
given to persons desirous of viewing the whole
performance from the thick iron bar to the
finest wire ; and the expedition used in the
various departments, is not the least curious.
A party of ladies having come by water from
Chepstow, obligingly offered me a seat in the
boat on their return to that place ; and my
deficiency of description of the Wye's romantic
banks must be allowable, when my attention
was devoted not only to the charms of their
persons, but by the attractive powers of their
minds. I had hitherto been rambling amidst
agreeable scenes, and charmed by the company
of pellucid streams, it now became eminences
clothed with wood from the base to the sum*
mit ; and in parts where pasture was predomi-
nant, crowded by the woolly tribe and lowing
kine ; then my ideas were pleased on viewing
the perfections of nature, and the elegance of

266

art, at such times as I was offered the sight
of a mansion; pleasing impressions were grafted
•on my mind, heightened by the frequent glooms
which overspread, when enclosed between the
high and waving hills ; but from Tintern new
objects presented themselves, and all the grand,
all the awful, were multiplying on my astonished
senses. My language can but ill describe the
sublimity apparent in every sinuous course of
the river, and the * rude rough grandeur,' so
conspicuous ; the variety of their forms imagi-
nation can easily assimilate to ruins, castles,
walls, &c ; and where the rock is hidden, it is
by the luxuriant covering of a beauteous vege-
tation; ledges apparently of trifling width were
decorated by trees of such a size as to create
no small surprise from whence nourishment could
t»e procured to their wandering roots. Nature
seemed here to put the finishing hand to her
works, and convince the boasting pride of man
how much superior she shines in her display :
such an assemblage of scenery in all the charms
of splendor made ample amends for the discor

267

louring effect of the tide on Wye's pure stream ;
nor did the dignity of the towering, abrupt
precipice, suffer from the intrusion of Severn's
rolling current : all assaults baffling, what could
equal the sight ? nothing of art ; for though in-
several parts the view was bounded, and some-
times abruptly, still the next turn presented
additional matters for observation and admiration ,.
and tlie whole course of this enchanting river
seemed to me as nature's Lvceum to exhibit

•;

her beauties, capriciousiiess, and sublimity ; every
object apparently assuming a new shape, a new
complexion, with every variation of the sun,
whose splendid effects in some places were re-
flected with such power that the gazer could not
immediately distinguish the object.

I could not think of leaving this country
without visiting Piercefield, or having' it said I
passed down the Wye and neglected that famed
feature of the stream ; after having rode to Wynd
Cliff, at the extremity of the pleasure-grounds, I
sent back my horse ; the day was uncommonly

268

calm, and all nature was gilded by the radiance of
the sun, glittering on a variety of Unbounded
objects, and arrayed in her gaudiest dress :
looking up, the meandering river was separa-
ting declivities clothed with hanging woods from
the top to the bottom, and abrupt masses of
towering rock bedecked with ornamenting vege-
tation; beneath, the Wye was circumscribing a
large tract of beautiful meadows and tastefully
laid-out encloures, resembling in form a horse-
shoe : the view down the stream was embellished
by thick wood, though broken in parts ; and
through these openings bold upright excrescences
of rock were seen, (called, from their number, the
Twelve Apostles and St. Peter's Thumb ;) this is
a remarkable scene, and the abruptness of their
appearance is peculiarly pleasing ; indeed, there is
no end to the fancies of nature, and where she is
not really useful, she is diverting. From one-
view we perceive the Wye as five distinct bodies
of water ; one is bathing the rock on which
Chepstow castle is seated; and the rest are
obstructed from the sight, as one whole, by

intervening lofty cliffs or bold heights clothed
with a profusion of luxuriant wood; passing
Chepstow, it is seen in serpentine windings until
it reaches the rapid Severn, and unites to separate
the adorned hills of Gloucestershire and Somer-
setshire. A great part of Wiltshire serves to
form a distant view, observable and pleasing.
Here is such an assemblage of beauty and variety,
that there is no fixing the attention to one par-
ticular spot for any length of time, but attractions

Nn

270

elsewhere, and of equal claim to notice, will most
assuredly force themselves on you.

After having attempted a drawing of this en*
chanting view, I soon found how deficient it
was in picturesque effect, from my too great
elevation above the objects ; and, disgusted with
my performance, shut my book, overwhelmed
by a cloud of delightful melancholy, which was
pleasingly dispelled by the unexpected appearance
of some gentlemen to whom I was known, who
had come hither with the like intention of per-
ambulating the walks. At their request I joined
the party, attended by a person with a bugle horn ;
this was an unlooked-for addition, nor did I ever
hear the effect of sound so long in its decrease,
and from other situations reverberating in such
numerous replies from rock to rock, fading and
softening to the lowest whisper. The walks are
cut on the brinks of the cliff, forming the most
delightful labyrinths, with alcoves and numerous
resting places, each unfolding an infinity of rich
<ropc, and imbibing the perfuming fragrance from
rich vales below, while waving wood-', broad

271

white-faced rocks, and mountain-tops, with
streams and villages, are all one scene of mag-
nificence and delight. All this owes its origin,
as an improved place, to Valentine Morris, who
inherited it as a paternal estate; and 1752 may
be dated as the era when the peculiar beauties of
the place became attractive, from his taste and
industry : although the place was inhabited^ for
200 years previous, yet its elegance and advan-
tages were not perceived, or, if known, not
attended to. Pity must cast a covering over the
blemishes of its worthy introducer, and the
affection of all ranks value the name of the
man, and the humanity of his heart. This place
is now the property of W. WELLS, Esq. who is
making considerable additions to the mansion •
and, no doubt, will render these scenes as
interesting as any of the numerous princely
abodes for which this kingdom is famous.

I now returned to Chepstow, which is advan-
tageously situated for navigation and trade, being
only a little more than two miles from the Severn
Sea or Bristol Channel ; and the several vessels

272

afloat and on the stocks warrant the idea of
considerable traffic being carried on. Leland
seems inclined to think that the place has arisen
from Caerwent : his words are, " A great lykely-
" hood ys, that when Carguent began to decay,
" then began Chepstow to flourish, for yt stand-
<c eth far better, as upon Wy there ebbing and
<e flowing by the rage coming out of Severn, so
<f that to Chepstow may cum greate sheppes."
The name implies a Saxon origin, and undoubt-
edly this town has been used as a navigable depot
from their time : it is now in a flourishing 'state,
and has a trade to Norway, Russia, and Oporto ;
it is certainly advantageous in one respect, which
is, the depth of the river, capable of floating
ships of 700 tons burthen ; and its contiguity to
Bristol may be one, and the chief, reason of its
not having a greater share of importation. It
sends large quantities of timber to the royal
dock-yards, and also iron, bark, cyder, &c.
to foreign ports. A vessel regularly sails for
Bristol every Tuesday, and returns on Thursday
or Friday. The bridge which connects this place
with the opposite shore, is of timber : one half

273

supported by stone piers, the other by wooden ;
but in the centre a large one of stone separates
the two counties, and each side repairs its own ;
the construction is similar to that at Caerleon,
and on passing over it at low water, the effect is
truly tremendous from the great depth to the
river. The present church stands on the scite
of an old priory, of which the edifice is now a
part : the curious will find great delight from
the west door, exhibiting such a fine specimen of
Saxon workmanship, and indeed, the whole struc-
ture is an elegant piece ; but the principal matter
to excite attention in Chepstow, is the remains
of its castle, of which, though a large part has
fallen to decay, or been appropriated to other
uses, yet a large portion, tolerably well taken care
of, still remains : having shared with its brethren
the troubles of all the broils this country has
undergone, we cannot be surprised at the variety
of forms, ornaments, and architecture, which
it exhibits, every possessor adding or altering, as
fancy or circumstances suited : its gateway has
a venerable appearance, and perhaps is the most
perfect of the whole pile : it is seated on a high

274

and perpendicular rock, commanding the river,
and overlooking a large tract of country, from
whence it seems impregnable, and assumes a
dignity in consequence.

" High on the rock (which casts a dark'ning shade

" Around the craggy bank) the castle rears
«' Its crumbling turrets : still its towering head
" A warlike mien, a sullen grandeur bears."

Few places have been more the subject of
controversy than Chepstow Castle, as to its
original name; and considerable pains on both
sides have been bestowed to substantiate the
argument ; some calling it Strigul, others Chep-
stow. There is not far off a ruin of a castle,
bearing the name of Strigul, but whether, on the
forsaking of that in early days, this assumed the
appellation, is hard to determine. The Norman
seems to have taken care of the pile, and with
the usual decorations did not neglect conveni-
ence; the apartments were numerous, and of
considerable size, and the whole strongly defended
by the accustomed mode of the time ; the walls
exhibit specimens of hardness and mixt materials ;
and Roman bricks constituted a 'part, which has

275

given rise to many conjectures, (but these most
probably were brought from Caerwent,) from
which an opinion has been entertained that it
owes its date to that nation, though no coins, or
other materials have been discovered; and nume-
rous other evident proofs set aside the probability
of their having any concern in the structure.

The general appearance of the castle is
Norman, and Wilhelminus Comes is mentioned
as builder of it when this part of the kingdom
came under their conquest. In the reign of
Henry I. it became the property of Gilbert
Strongbow, earl of Pembroke, and by continued
descent is now the property of the Duke of
BEAUFORT. The most remarkable era of it was
at the troubles of Charles I. having been reserved
on the part of the ting, it was compelled to
surrender to the parliament's forces under colonel
Morgan ; it was afterwards surprised and retaken
for the royalists, by Nicholas Kemys, in whose
possession it was besieged by Cromwell in person,
without effect : on his departure he entrusted the
conduct of the siege to colonel Ewer, who, with

276

a small detachment of artillery, seven companies
of foot, and four troops of horse, continued the
siege till the want of provisions necessitated its
brave defenders to capitulate; they refusing to
surrender whilst any prospect of defence or escape
encouraged them: but that hope was wrested
from them bv a soldier of the parliament's army
swimming across the river, and cutting away the
boat by which they meditated their escape. Sir
Nicholas Kemys was slain during the arduous
endeavour to serve his royal master : and com-
manding a force only of lOo men, reflects
high honor on his name.

A tower in this celebrated place became
afterwards the prison of Henry Marten, one of
the judges who sat on the trial, and condemned
his sovereign to death. He, however, escaped
the fate due to a regicide, which several of
his brethren shared, by losing their lives. The
several accounts of the rigor he suffered are
erroneous ; and the authors most to be relied
on all unite in the clemency of his imprison -
mentj being allowed liberty to a certain extent

277

.without* the walls, and even was noticed by, and
visited, the family of St. Pierre, until his traiter-
ous language compelled that patriotic family to
forbid him their hospitable roof. As to his
conveniences, spectators need only visit the
tower, and they will find many remains of
matters consistent only with a superb mansion ;
and I believe many persons of property, and
liberty too, cannot boast of such a liberal and
delightful situation. This famed person remained
here for 2O years; he died suddenly at his din-
ner, aged 78, and was buried in Chepstow
church-yard, where is his monument; and an
epitaph written by himself, may be seen.

Leaving Chepstow after passing over its wooden,
bridge, ascended a steep hill, until I reached the
turnpike-gate, when, turning to the right, took
the road for the Old Passage ; here the view un-
folded a beautiful, rich, and. animated prospect.
In front, the Wye winding up to the town of
Chepstow ; its surface nearly obscured by the
busy employ of a maritime port, and the ivy-
embattled walls of its castle were strikingly

O o

278

pleasing : in few words it may be said that,
from Chepstow, the road being on a narrow
neck of land, exhibits most features that can
give landscape- a beautiful appearance where water
has the chief display.

Detached from the town two* houses are pe-
culiarly attractive, from their situation, elegance,
and neatness, and that on the left is the man-
sion of T. FIDELL, Esq. M. P. for Boston. At
the extent of a mile and a half, reached the
Passage ; the views are extensive and beautiful,
presenting the forest of Dean, Robinhoocl Hill,
(under which is the city of Glocester, &c.) At
the mouth of the Wye, which is only one field
from Beaehley (or the passage-house,) are the
ruins of an old chapel receiving daily encroach-
ments from that stream and the Severn ; little
of it now remains, and those bones once con-
signed to consecrated earth, no longer have soil
to protect them. In the field just spoken of>
many coins are said to have been found and
ascertained to have been Roman, but my re-
peated enquiries were not able to discover who

279

had any of them ; it also bears a tradition of a
battle having been fought on the spot. The
breadth of the Severn at Beachley is one mile,
and the same rules are to be observed respect-
ing the tides here, as at the New Passage ;
there being scarcely five minutes difference in
the gradation of the stream. The Aust cliff,
under which you land, is remarkably grand, par-
ticularly at high water; it is a bold ^elevation of
about 300 feet, composed of a jjed clay inter-*
spersed with narrow strata of the whitest ala-
baster, representing in some places cement in
rude masonry ; there are also carbonate of lime
•with pyrites, and sulphate of lime, — carbonate of
lime with pyrites and crystals of lime, — daz-
zling spars of sulphate of lime, — sulphate of
fitrontiiine,— mundic, &c.

, A pleasant walk on the brink of the cliff
will lead to the beach on the other side, and
each step unfolds an assemblage of that cha-
racteristic landscape, ( I had reluctantly left ),
beautifully combined and highly enriched by
woodlands, making fancy appear extravagant in

280

her sublimities of wood, water, hill and dale:
this is supposed to have been one of the
Roman stations, but by the most diligent
search I could not observe the least traces of
any work having been thrown up, though na-
ture had offered a situation unparalleled, and
had partly began a protection; but this cannot
be any disproof of the Romans not occupying
these heights, as the Severn -has and is consi-

4

derably encroaching on the cliff, so that the
part probably once in their use, is now be-
come mingled with its oozy beach.

A singular story is related of the place : — •
*f When Edward the elder lay at Aust Clive, the
" heights of Beachley (the opposite shore) was
tf occupied by Leolin, a prince of Wales; the
" latter being summoned to cross the Severn to
" a conference with the king, he refused to
" obey, Edward therefore went over to Leolin,
ff who, on seeing the king in the boat, dis-
" robed himself, and leaping breast-high in the
" water, said^ * Most wise king, your humility
? has conquered my pride, and your wisdom

281

c triumphed over my folly, mount upon that
c neck which I have so foolishly exalted against
s you, so that you enter into that country which
' your goodness has this day made your own :*
" then taking him upon his shoulders he made
" him sit upon his robes, and joining hands,
" did him homage/ The above story was re-
corded by Walter Mapes, who wrote 50O years
previously to Camden.

Leaving Aust psssage house, at the distance
of about three miles reached the road by which
I came at the early part of my journey ; the
smooth surface of the Marsh common was
charmingly contrasted by the wooded eminence
of Black Horse Hill, scattered with interesting
objects uniting to render the scene inexpres-
sibly delightful, When I before saw it, much
of Henbury was obscured ,by rain, now it was
glowing by a brilliant sun, adorning the rich
display of nature and art. On reaching the hill
above Westbury, I involuntarily stopt, and found
myself lost in a fascinating stare, as the view
presented not only all that was beautiful, but

282

all that was great, — hills and dales were scattered
with towns and villages — noble, mansions, or other
elegant edifices ornamented by productions of
fertility, and as pleasingly dispersed. To trace
the track of this dazzling scene by the effects
of my pencil was impossible, and still more so
to describe by the powers of my pen: the
variety of beauties setting all language at defiance,
apparently placed as candidates for preference;
in short, it would justify the highest panegyric
the power of rhetoric could bestow.

OH crossing Durdham-down beyond the turn-
pike gate went on the summit of St. Vincent's
Rock ; from this elevated spot all nature seemed
dressed in her gayest attire, and every thing was
from hence seen, among her richest presents,
all conspiring not to be out-done by any other
possible display : immediately under the eye the
Avon was winding between the bold precipices,
and bearing with a superior pride several large
ships on their return from foreign coasts ;
innumerable other vessels were forming the pro-
cession, some of them having bands, the melody

of which was rebounding musically sweet among
the barriers of the majestic and romantic rocks
or hanging woods crowned with stately trees :
the walks on the borders of the stream were
crowded by several groupes of figures, many of
whom were sincerely welcoming the return of
their friends, and wafting their sincerity by the
wavings of their handkerchiefs. Nature surely
designed the event as a competition to all
rivalship ; and the animated prospect, though it
disturbed my feelings, triumphed in causing me
to confess the superiority over all I had seen,
and yield the palm to CLIFTON, where it may
be truly said,

" Whate'er of sweet, of simple, of sublime,
" Of glade to traverse, or of heights to climb;
" Of rocks incumbent, or with vales below,
" Or stream majestic in meanderings flow;
" Whatever charm in other scenes we see,
" Nature, O CLIFTON, here combines in thee !"

APPENDIX.

J_ Could not take a farewell of this work, without retracing
those historic sites famed for Roman prosperity, when it
shone so resplendent in this country, to subjoin any
information that might have been discovered since my visit
last year.

Caerwent first claimed the object of my attention ; with
additional sorrow I beheld the ravages made by all- destroying
time, from unprotecting care j and that little of the tessellated
pavement, which afforded me a representation, was now no
more ; silent regret made me wander over every piled heap
with inquisitive research, in the hope of rescuing from a
similar fate any other specimen of that nation, whose genius
and ability not only commanded respect, but received the
homage of the Britons, for softening their manners and
teaching them the arts of civilized life. At length a small
portion was discovered; pleased with the hope, I hastened
to the proprietor, who gave me permission, On assuring him

286

no fruit-tree was on it; but disappointment soon attended
my exertions, as only a small part of uninteresting character
remained. The rest (I learned) having been mattocked up
about 15 years since ; on expressing my surprise, the person
added, " In this orchard, Sir, there is a tessellated pave-
" ment far more beautiful than the one so long the object
" of admiration, but, on being discovered, immediate orders
f were given to have it filled in, and two choice trees
" planted over it, to guard it from modern eyes !" Words
in common use must change their meaning, to express the
variety of feelings this information gave birth to

My success was more favourable at Caerleon, where I pro-
cured a scarce and interesting coin of the emperor Hadrianus,
who (being the first monarch that visited the acquired dominion
of Britain) had it struck on his return, commemorative of
its security.

No. I, represents a sepulchral Cirrus, found five feet
below the surface, which was obligingly procured for me
by the Rev. Mr. EVANS, (knowing I am desirous of col-
lecting and concentrating in one receptacle all the antiquities
of the country :) the difficulties attendant on decyphering
Roman inscriptions from the usual abbreviations, induced me
to apply to the Rev. Mr. LEMAN, of Bath, from a knowledge of
his deep-scienced abilities, which rank so distinguishedlr
pre-eminent; I shall, therefore, avail myself of that gentle-
man's friendship, and insert his obliging elucidation :

287

Julii Licii
Julius Caterius

films
rixit annos xxv.

Optio,

ammo libenti
faciendum curavij.

Mr. LEMAN adds, " Whether the name was Licius or
Livius, or the name Caterius, is of little consequence, and
must be always doubtful ; but the office of the person of
Sub-Centurion, (or Optio,) who placed this monument to
the memory of his friend, is very clear."

No. II, is the fragment of a stone, on which is the repre-
sentation of Ammo Lilens Trqjanus, but to what intent Trajan's
willing mind was employed on this occasion, we are to lament,
its mutilated state precludes all possibility of conjecture.

No. Ill, is part of a brick two inches in thickness, with two
pointed edges resembling the teeth of a saw ; in the centre in
relievo, is LEGIIAVG : denoting the work of the Second
Augustan Legion; what was the original use or design, is
difficult to determine, as all histories of Roman Antiquities
(that I can find) bear no description or resemblance of its
similitude.

DESCRIPTION

CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF LANDAFF;

IN A LETTEll FROM

IF. worroN to BROWNE WILLIS, Esq.

J. HE cathedral church of Landaff, which is dedicated to St.
Peter and St. Paul, stands in a bottom on the north east side of
a pleasant village, near the banks of the river Taf, from whence
it takes its name. The church is entire, as having no cloisters
about it, or any other buildings, formerly standing within the
church-yard: at 'the west end there are two towers, one to the
south, which seems to be as old as the church, which is open
\vithin from the top to the bottom. Tills tower, which now
looks ruinous, had formerly coarse battlements at the top, most
of which are down, with four small pinnacles at the corners.
The tower on the north side was built by Jasper, (created duke
of Bedford, anno 1485) son of Owen Tudor, by Catherine,
daughter of Charles VI. king of France, who married her after
'cccase of Henry V. This is a handsome tower, and is
in pretty good repair, all but the battlements at top, which
were elegant enough,, and entire, til] the gn-at storm Novera-

200

her 27, 1/03, which threw down two of the corner pinnacles,
and a good part of the battlements ; the wind being southerly,
threw the stones into the church-yard. This tower, which is
ascended by 140 free-stone steps, is in height, from the lower
moulding at top to the bottom, 29 yards and a half ; the
battlements are 8 feet deep; the square at top is 21 feet and
a half north and south, and 22 feet east and west ; and at
bottom, on the west side, (where are three handsome windows
over one another,) it is 29 feet long. The front of the church
to the west, between the towers at bottom, is 30 feet : the
great west door, which stands in the middle between the said
towers, is 7 feet and a half broad, and 10 feet high, and has
over it an image of a bishop in his pontifical habit, which the
people of the place erroneously suppose to be Bp. Urban, who
lived in Henry the Ist's time, and built the church that is
now standing. Mr. Edward Lhywd (the worthy Author of
the Archaeologia Britannica) who took a draught of it when
he was at Landaff, in his travels through "Wales, took it (as it
most probably was design'd) to be the image of St. Dubritius,
who is reckoned to have been the first bishop of this see.
Over the door are three long narrow windows ; the middle-
most of which is 20 feet high, and 4 feet broad ; and the
side ones are 16 feet high, and 3 feet broad : above them are '
seven niches of free-stone; that in the middle is the longest j
those on each side, which exactly correspond to each other,
being three in number, are higher one than another, the
outermost being the shortest. The middle nich was once a
window, but it is now walled up : over these is a statue of
a king in a nich, supposed to be Henry I. who then reigned.

In the old tower are five windows, two under two, three
feet and a half broad, and 9 feet high a-piecej and under
them a fifth, 9 inches broad, and 7 feet high. In the north
corner, at the west end, is a stair-case, by means of which
there is a communication to the other tower and the leads
of the church : the height of this tower is 28 yards ; it being
22 yards to the top of the pediment, and 6 yards above. At
about 40 yards' distance from this tower, South-West from
the church, stood heretofore an old tower, which, as appears
by the ruins, was 42 feet square ; the door, which stood
south of the church is 13 feet high, and 7 feet broad: in it,
as 'tis reported, there formerly hung a very large bell, called
St. Peter's Bell ; which being taken down by Jasper Duke
«f Bedford, was conveyed to Exeter, and there exchanged for
five bells, which were hung up in Jasper's tower.

As we go into the church, in the church-yard, not far from
the west door, is an altar monument, about a foot and half
from the ground, set up in memory of Dr. Jones, a civilian,
late chancellor of this diocese ; who was eminent also for his
skill in physic, which he sufficiently shewed in a learned dis-
course, in Latin, of intermitting fevers ; and also in another
discourse concerning Opium, written in English ; which arc
books very much esteemed by the gentlemen of that profes-
sion. His epitaph is this :

Hie jacet reneraWs Vir JOHANNES JONES, L. L. D.
httjus Dioeceseos Cancellarius, qui Deo reddidlt animam XXII
Die 4ugusti, Anno JSqlittis MDCCIX. &tatis sue? LXV".

We descend into the church by seven or eight steps. The
towers within are 18 feet long : from thence to the screen that
divides the nave from the choir, is 9 1 feet and a half ; so that
the whole length of the nave, from the west door to the screen,
is about 1 10 feet. On each side of the nave there are four
pillars, exclusive of those that join to the screen, and to the
towers ; in all, including the pilasters that join to the west end,
and those that support the choir part, and extend to the high
altar, there are on each side, comprehending the length of
the whole church, eleven} but this will be better under-
stood by the draught.

The breadth of the nave, from the footing of the pillars it
29 feetj the pillars at the bottom are six feet square j the two
side-aisles are 15 feet broad a-piece ; so that the whole breadth
of the church is about 65 feet.

As far as the first four arches to the westward, the roof
within consists only of couples, (as they are called in this coun-
try,) to which within are framed circular beams of timber,
laid parallel to one another ; which is the common way of
laying of roofs of churches in South Wales: from thence to
the upper end of the choir it was formerly cieled with wain-
scot, which was painted j but the roof being ruinous, the ciel-
ing was taken down, in order to repair the timber some years
ago, which makes all that part look very naked : on each side
of the nave, over the pillars, are twelve windows, by two and
two, with five partitions between. The distance between each,
pillar at bottom is twelve feet from base to base : there are six;

-2Q3

arches in the nave, on each side of which the first joins to the
tower, and the sixth to the screen of the choir. The heighth
of the wall, over the pillars, from bottom to top, is 54 feet ;
from thence to the top of the compass-work may be about ten
feet more ; so that the heighth and breadth (as in several
other cathedrals) seem equal : the side aisles which answer
within one to another, are SO feet high.

Upon the pavement in the nave, which is of stone, though
a very sorry one, not far from the west door, is a grave stone,
on which there is a crozier delineated, with this inscription
round it :

C?ic facet £p20i$tcc 3!o!;2jtnfc; !LIo23, cufos aninu propitt^r

Close to the second pillar on the south side is the font :
against the fourth pillar on the same side, was formerly a
pulpit, which was taken down in the great rebellion.

Against the fourth pillar on the north side, and so' on to the
fifth, stands the monument of Sir William Matthew, of Ani-
dyr, in Glamorganshire, about one mile from LandafF: it*
length, including the palisade round it, is sixteen feet and «
half ; its breadth nine feet and a half. It is an altar monument,
on which lay the images of a man and a woman, curiously
wrought in alabaster ; the man is bare-headed, in complete

armour, with a coat of mail under his corslet, and a collar cf SS .

Qq

over it : his gauntlets are by his right leg, and a sword 'cross ;
at his head is a lion, and a monk with beads in his hanJ: his
helmet is his pillow j in his left hand is his dagger, and a sword
at his right : on his left side lies his wife, in the same recum-
bent posture, habited after the manner of the timej the lappets
of her head clothes are laced, and the lace gilt. The inscrip-
tion which is on the edge of the monument is this :

<&rate pro gnimabitf aatttltelmi fcTtottljefo Spilittf, qui olrift nr-
timo Die Sprltf, A. D. M.CCCCC', utew" VIII. f etiam
Jencttj u cons aws quc Dso tcooUHt €bjiiritum.....SDie QSrnsiE .....
3, SD. Spilt"0, CCCCC» trice*". quotum animator pcoyttft&w

On the west side of tlie monument are images in three
niches : in the middle is an escutcheon, supported by a man
and a woman; the arms are worn out, but seem to hive
been quarterly. On the south side are seven images ; every
second image holds an escutcheon j but the arms, which were
originally painted, are not discernible. Easterly, at the feet,
are four images, each with an escutcheon as before. On thr
north side are seven images, as on the south. On some of the
escutcheons may be discerned three chevrons gules, on a field
argent, which are said to be the arms of Jestin-ap-Gvvrgan-t,
who betrayed his country to the Norman knights, who came
hither with Robert Fitz-Hammond, in the reign of -William
Kufns. Some of the images at the head are in armour ; on the
sides and at the feet, with beads. The whole is wrought m
nlibastcr, and (if we consider the time) is very curiously done.

Near this monument, towards the west, is a grave-stone,
en which was formerly a brass plate, with an inscription in
the Welsh language j half of the plate is lost, the other half
has been preserved by the reverend and worthy Mr. Francis
Davies, resident vicar-choral of this church, who did me the
favor to communicate it to me j to whom also I am exceed-
ingly obliged for his kind information in whatsoever I had
occasion to consult him. What is preserved of the inscription
is as follows :

Pedwar [gain glan . .
fymtheg kant yr h . .
Y Corff mivynaf S .
O Dduw daeth Angeu
Wlllmm Prys ai . . .
O Dduw y lawb . . .

IN ENGLISH THUS,

" Fourscore lusty

" Fifteen hundred and . .
" The gentlest Body . . .
" From God comes Death
" William Price did ...
" From God ia all .

The tradition is, — That a person of distinction, who livfed in
the mountains, having a desire to be buried in the mother-
church, or, as they call it, Mam-Eglwys, was carried thither
by eighty men, who relived one another by turns till they

2Q6

came to Landaff : it is said likewise, that there were 3500
persons that followed him to his grave. When this man was
buried is not known : this however will, in some measure,
lead us to fill up what is wanting in this inscription. In the
first line, if Dynion be added to the Pedivar Igain glan, it will
signify eighty brisk or lusty fellows. Glan, in Welsh, is pro-
perly clean. It signifies sometimes fair. Dur glan is clean
water. Merch glan a fair maid. Metaphorically, it is used
for Holy, as Yspryd glan, the Holy Ghost. Here glan
applied to Dynion or Dyn, (i. e. Man, or Men) may de-
note beauty , .and that, when it is in youth, generally takes
in strength. Pymtheg Kant isjifteen hundred, if h .... stands
there for hugain, as probabjy it does, then the three thousand
five hundred who attended at the burial, are compleat ; for
pymtheg cant a'r hugain, is three thousand five hundred. In
the third line, the S . . . . seems to be the first letter of the
name of the man that was buried ; Sion, is John, in Welsh,
and there is room enough for Sion ap Evan, or the like. Wil-
liam Price was in all likelihood the name of the poet that made
this epitaph ; for the British bard» do now, and did anciently,
put ai cant (cecinlt) at the end of their compositions, as Sion
ap Gritffj/dd ai cant. Mredydd ap Madau'g ai cant. John
Griffith, or Meredith Maddocks, sung so or 50. So much for
this inscription ; I go on now to. the rest of the church.

The is nothing remarkable in the north aisle till we conic
to the choir, except an elegant mural monument cut in black
marble near the choir, which, at a distance, seems to consist of
••i table enclosed withia two fluted marble pilasters, beautified

with angels and other ornaments j whereas the whole work,
both inscription and decorations, are all cut into the marble
itself without any sort of relief.

THE INSCRIPTION UPON THE TABLE IS THIS :

In Memory of Florence the Wife of William Herbert, of the
"White Friars in Cardiff, Esq. who departed this Life Oct. the
15th, 1709, aged 4O Years.

In this north aisle, near the west end, is a door, commonly
called S. Teilaw's Door, through which, before the Reformation,
dead bodies were carried into the church to be buried, it being
looked upon as meritorious to carry them that way.

To the east of S. Teilaw's Door, over against the sixth pillar,
is another small door, which they call the Prebendary's Door.
Between those two doors are two empty niches in the wall, in
which there formerly seem to have been monuments and effi-
gies of persons. The windows in the north aisle do not answer
to those in the south, and there are five irregular windows, in
that part of the north aisle, which reaches from the west end
to the break, that is over the door of the chapter-house which
is on the south.

The consistory court and the chapter- house join to the south
aisle. The consistory court is near the old western tower ; it is
a tolerable good room, 15 feet square in the clear within, with
one window six feet broad and four feet high, and two other
Jcsser ones over that, one foot three inches broad, and three

2Q8

feet high apiece. The door that goes into it out of the south
aisle is of free-stone arched. Between the consistory court
and the tower, is one window 10 feet high and eight feet broad.
From the consistory court to the chapter-house there are five
handsome uniform windows in the south aisle, eight feet broad
and J 5 feet high. From the body of the church on this side,
to the leads of the south aisle, is 26 feet six inches. The
square of the chapter-house on the outside is 36 feet; the dia-
meter of the pediment about eight feet. To the east, in the
church-yard, is a stair-case, which leads up to a room over the
chapter-house, in which there is a school. On the body of the
church on that side are 23 battlements ; on the south aisle,
between the old tower and the chapter-house, 12 ; beyond that
to the end of the south aisle, seven. The length of the south
aisle on the outside, including the old tower, from west to east,
may be divided thus : to the pent-house, or half roof, (as it is
called in this country) it is in length 14 yards ; the pent-house
takes up two yards more ; the consistory court seven yards ;
thence to the porch, nine yards j the porch three yards and
one foot ; thence to the chapter-house, 1 6 yards. The chap-
ter-house itself takes up eight yards six inches. The remaining
part of the south aisle is 16 yards and one foot j the length of
the whole is 75 yards, two feet, six inches : so much for the
south aisle without.

There is nothing within till we come to the choir, except
a door of a porch -which is exactly against the Prebendary's
Door in the north aisle. The porch is within in the clear, in
length seven feet and a half, in breadth six feet nine inches.

299

Each of these aisles are in breadth, from the footing of the pil-
lars on each side to the outward wall, 1 1 feet and a half.

The choir begins from the seventh pillar, and reaches to the
eleventh 5 its breadth is exactly the same with that of the
nave, and is divided by a screen from the nave and the side
aisles. The stalls on the north side are 32 feet long, from the?
west end of the screen. On the south side the length of the
stalls is 27 feet nine inches. The breadth of the choir, north
and south, is 32 feet. The order and inscriptions of the stalls
is thus : on the right side, as one goes into the choir out of the
nave on the west end, are these : —

Episcopi, Faire-Wdl, alias Mri. Clark,

Tkesaurarij , Faire-Water, alias Gullelnu

Preeeentoriff Jones.

ON THE SOUTH SIDE.

Prel. de Cayre, Ficars Choral.

Prel. S"e Crucis,

ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE DOOR.

Archidia.com, Prel. de

Cancellarij, Prel. Su Nicholai, alias M"

Prel. de Langwrn. Mayo.

ON THE NORTH SIDE.

Prel. Sli Dulritij, alias Prel. S" Andreas
Bris, Lysons, Vicars Chord,

300

At the end of the stalls on the south side, is a. void space
three feet and a half long, after which is the bishop's throne.,
built by Marshall, in Edward IV's. time. It is six feet long
and five feet broad. Thoagh the beauty of it is pretty much
lost by length of time, yet it appears to have been, when it was
first made, a curious piece of work. The back of the throne
that fronts the choir is painted, and was covered with lamp-
black during the great rebellion ; but upon the restoration of
king Charles II. the black was taken off, and the first orna-
ments again appeared. If we look upon it from the south,
we see on the right hand the bishop praying to the blessed
Virgin, who is ascending into Heaven with her hands in a
praying posture, supported by seven angels, one under her
feet, and three on each side ; out of the bishop's mouth pro-
ceeds a label inscribed thus : O Virgo scandcns sis Marshall
ccelica pandens. On each side is an angel, who seems to have
musical instruments to welcome her to Heaven. At the
bottom is another angel over against the bishop who holds
up his hands.

The bishop's throne joins to the ninth pillar. Beyond it is
a small door that opens into the south aisle, over against the
door of the chapter-house. At the bishop's throne there is a
large half pace, from whence there are four steps, with half
paces between every step leading up to the altar. Beyond the
door that goes to the chapter-house there are two seats, and
behind them, in a nich in the wall, lies a bishop in his Pontifi-
calilms, in a recumbent posture, in free-stone. They told me
it was St. Teilaw's tomb ; but the work does not seem to be

301

above 400 years old j and besides, the present church was built
several ages after St. Teilaw's death. However, it is very
probable it might be erected to his honour by some of his
successors, and that here might have been an ancienter
monument.

From the throne to (he rails is 28 feet three inches, from
thence to the altar nine feet six inches. Within the rails are
three plain grave-stones of free-stone ; on the outwardmost
of which, lying toward the south, is this inscription round
the edge:

HUGO LLOYD, Landavensis Episcopus oliit septimo Die
Mentis Junij An. Dom. iGGj. Anno jEtatis sues 78, Annoque
Consecrationis suce septimo. In the middle part are the arms
of the see, viz. Two Crosiers in Saltire with three Mitres in
Chief. Under these arms is written, He hath dispersed abroad
and given to the Poor, his Righteousness remaineth Jor ever.
After that are his own arms, which are, A Cheveron "between,
three Dragons Heads crazed. To the north of this, in the mid*
die, is a stone for his wife, with only RESURGAM upon it,
and under that Anno Dom. 1660.

Joining to it is a third stone laid for Bishop Davles, thus
inscribed :

Hicjacet Reverendus in Christo Pater Franciscus permissions
Divind hujus Ecclesice Episcopus post Restaurationem secundust
qui ad Dominum Domini Die redijt Martij 141 ; 70

Rr

Anno, Consecrationis 8int $55* Salutis l67f • ^n Jejuniisfrequens.
Ultimo Ore semper Vita prcedicavit. Quadragesimalem hie
vlvcns vitam, Quadragesima hinc ad Fitam transiit eternam.
Underneath are the arms of the see, which are differently
blazoned from those upon the grave-stone of bishop Lloyd,
namely, A Sii'ord between two Keys in Saltire, with three
Mitres on a Chief.

Without the rails, on the north side of the altar, lies a bishop,
carved in free-stone, with a bold relief, without any inscrip-
tion. And upon the third half pace as you go up, is another
bishop in his robes, without any inscription likewise. The first
of these is guessed to be for St. Dubritius, the first bishop ;
and the other might probably be for bishop Bromfield, who lies
buried in this church; except St. Teliau's, on the opposite side,
is mistaken for him, which it should seem to be by the age.

The altar-piece, which is of free-stone, was made in bishop
Marshall's time. It looks well still, though the colours are
exceedingly faded. What we first see, is a row of niches, ] I
in number, painted with roses and hyacinths interchangeably.
The centers of the roses and the little knops of the stems,' with
the flowers of the hyacinths, are gilt. The roses are white,
which confirms the tradition of its being made by bishop
Marshall, since the white rose was the device of the house of
York, which was never (as I believe,) used singly in any public
decorations of building, except in the reigns of Edward IV.
•and Richard III. and then it was a proper compliment to his
patron, Edward IV. under whom he was preferred.

303

Under these 1 ] niches, is a row of eight niches, painted in
fresco, exactly like the former. At each end of these painted
ones, are three real niches, painted also in the same manner.
Within these are two little ones, with a pilaster between ; the
ground-work throughout, both in the fresco and the real niches,
is interchangeably blue and red, and the ornaments over every
nich are gilt. At each end is a door which leads into the ves-
try, painted like all the rest. Above the altar-piece are two
rows of large niches, in which formerly have been images. In
both rows the middlemost nich is larger than the rest, and on
e-ach side are two lesser ones. The two largest niches probably
contained the images of our Lord and the blessed Virgin ; and
the other twelve were for the twelve apostles : under the two
large niches are the ten commandments, written with gold
letters, within a frame ; over all is a handsome free-stonf
window.

The first thing we see on the north side of the choir, as we
go down from the altar, is bishop Marshall's monument. It
stands in the wall, between the pth and 10th pillars, and is of
the altar kind. He is placed in a recumbent posture, with
his crosier and mitre, and pontifical robes. In the wall are
his arms impal'd with those of the see. The arms of the see
here are, Sable a Sword and two Keys in Saltire, Or, on a
Chief, Vert, three Mitres of the Second. His own arms are,
Parted per Cheveron in Fess, Or and Vert, letween a $p Sable
l-clow, and a Faulcon, Or, above. At the feet are the cross,
nails, ropes, and other instruments of the Crucifixion, carved
in free-stone upon the wall. The work of this monument is

304

very good, and savours of that time, when arts began to revive.
The capital Sp of the black, or Gothic kind, which is in the
arms, which are also (as I remember) upon the bishop's throne,
puts it out of doubt to whom this monument belongs j for
there is no inscription whereby we may be otherwise in-
formed.

As we go farther down on the same side, at the distance of
24 feet nine inches from the rails, stands a pulpit ; and between
that and bishop Marshall's tomb, is a door that leads into the
north aisle, opposite to the door that leads into the chapter-
house. The organ loft is over the stalls on the north side of
the choir j there are in it some shattered remains of an organ
within a wooden case, with some of the pipes lying loose and
disordered in the case ; it was formerly given to this church
by my Lady Kemysh, of Cefn Mabley, in Glamorganshire,
(grandmother to sir Charles Kemysh, who now possesses that
estate) after the reign of king Charles II. So much for the
choir.

In the south aisle, after one goes up as high as the screen,
there is a partition, wherein is a small door which leads into
what was once a small chapel : it seems to have been once
undivided from the rest of the aisle. Its length is the distance
between the 9th and 10th pillars, to which there are two pilas-
ters in the outer wall, exactly corresponding ; it is arched over
head with free-stone. In the middle, within this chapel, is
the door that leads into the chapter-house.

305

The chapter-house, (which is east and west, 21 feet, south
and north 23 feet) is paved with free-stone, cut much of the
size of our common paving bricks : it is arched with stone,
and the groyns of the arches centre all' in the middle, where
they are supported by one pillar : towards the south wall, and
a good way to the east and west, there are seats round it. At
the north-east end there is a press where they keep their re-
cords, and by that there is a pulpit.

In the uppermost division of the south aisle, near the chapel
abovementioned, is a nich in the outward wall, where there
seems to have been a monument, but of whom is not known.
At the north-east corner is a nich in the wall, in which is a
fair statue of a lady, in a recumbent posture, covered with a
large veil} it is of alabaster; in the wall two men hold two
escutcheons, which are so defaced that the arms cannot be
discerned. There is no inscription. Her name is said to have
been Christian Audley. But who she was otherwise, or when
she lived, is not remembered. I can only guess, that she was
probably the wife of John, lord Audley, a person of great pos-
sessions in these parts, and an active man in suppressing the
insurrection of Owen Glendour, in the time of Henry the IVth.
in the 10th year of whose reign he departed this life. Under
the east window of the same aisle is a grave-stone with this
inscription :

JESUS.

Here lyeth the body of William Evans, L. L. B. Treasurer of
this Cathedral Church, Chancellor of this Diocese for 40 Years ,

306

•under these three Bishops, Anthony [Kilchin, alias Duns ton,]
Hugh [Jones,"] and William [Blethin] Prebendary of Exon,
And Justice oj the Peace and Quorum of Monmouth and Gla-
morgan, deceased 5th of January, Anno Dom. 1589.

Underneath are his arms, quarterly ; 1st. Three Lions Ram-
pant. 2. Tivo Che-oerons in a plain Field. 3. A Lion Ram-
pant within a lordurc golonated. 4th. as the first. Under
the arms is written, Fortitude mca Dominus.

Near this, to the south side, is another grave-stone, thus
inscribed :

J E S US.

Here lycth the Body of John Evans, q/'Llangattock Vybona-
vel, Brother to the said William Evans, deceased the 3d Day
of December, Anno 1588.

I go back now to the north aisle, which I had carried up
before as high as the choir. There the first tiling that occurs
worth observation is a monument in a nich in the wall, over
against bishop Marshall's monument, of a bishop in his ponti-
fical robes, and over him, in the form of an escutcheon, the
instruments of the Crucifixion, the cross, nails, ladder, rope?,
and scourges, and over those an emblem of the Resurrection.
There is no inscription, nor other mark, by which to find out
the person for whom this monument was made. Above that,
in another nich, is a skeleton engraved in free-stone, lying in
a shroud open before, and gathered above the head ;* it seems

307

to be 300 years old, if not more ; and, considering the time, it is
not ill cut: this skeleton is over against the llth pillar of the
choir, which joins to the altar.

Towards the east end of this1 aforesaid north aisle, there is a
screen which divides the east end from the rest. It was thus
divided for a burial-place of the family of the Matthew's. It is
11 feet long, and 15 feet broad.

At the upper end, within this division, to the north east, lies a
knight in armour, upon an altar monument, in alabaster, well
wrought : at his head is a man in armour bearing his shield : on
the side are six images, five of men, and one of a woman, all
bearing escutcheons. This is said to be the monument of David
Matthew the great, who was standard bearer to Edward IV. and
was murdered at Neath (a maritime town in this county, which
is the old Nidum in the itinerary of Antoninus) by some of the
Turberviles, with whom he was at variance.

On the north side next to St. Mary's chapel, between that and
the north aisle, is a noble altar monument about nine feet in
length, on which are two images finely wrought in alabaster :
the man is in armour, with a collar of SS's about his neck, and
a coat of mail under his corslet; by him lies a woman with laced
head clothes, and the lace of the lappets gilt. Round the edge
of the altar is this inscription ?

yta animabiw Christopher! Matthew Srmigerf, 5 Elisabeth
quc nuiurm Cliwfart), obift pmultimo Die Jannarif '& £\

308

M. D. toitte0 &tfo tt prttrtcf CIjMi&opfjorus 43fafft .....
Slnno Domini M.CCCCC0. tntojum Snimabws propttletuc

On the south side of the monument are two Angels in the
middle, supporting the escutcheons in which are the coats of
Matthew and Morgan. At each end are two old priests, and
between them and the angels, towards the choir, are three young
men in armour, and towards the east end of St. Mary's chapel,
two young men in armour, and one young woman : on the
north side are two angels in the middle, as on the south, sup-
porting the same escutcheon, and two priests with beads at the
end, and three women on each side between the priests and the
angels.

Out of the north aisle there is a door into St. Mary's chapel,
which is at the east end of the choir, and divided from it by a
long narrow room, which runs the whole breadth of the choir,
parallel to, and between that and St. Mary's chapel : this room
is five feet and three inches in breadth. It was formerly used
for a vestry, and has two doors at the north and south-west end,
behind the high altar, to go into the choir : it is now only a dark
dusty place of little or no use. The chapel itself, now called the
Welsh chapel, because divine service is celebrated in it every
Sunday in the Welsh language, is from the west end to the com-
munion rails, in length 48 feet, and from thence to the altar,
nine feet and a half ; its breadth is 24 feet six inches, and the
heighth about 36 feet : it is built without any pilasters to support
it. In the inside, towards the west end, there are two screens

30Q

of wood, 10 feet six inches long apiece, which divide this cha-
pel from the side-aisles, and join the wall of the chapel with the
vestry : in each of these screens there is a door which leads into
the aisles. On the north side, near the rails, there is a pulpit
and a reading desk. Behind the altar, and on the north and
south sides, are scats for the people. In the area of the chapel
is a grave stone that is said to belong to Johannes Monumethensia,
(who was bishop of LlandafF .in 1 296) and nearer to the altar
another for bishop Pascall, who was bishop in 1343. On die
north side of the altar lies William de Bruce, covered with a
black coarse marble grave stone, engraved with a bold relief,
roughly drawn after the manner of the time. He is in his plain
episcopal robes, with a mitre and crosier ; and over his head is
cut in embossed work, ffiK3Hiei3jBQ& D£ BE2J£<£ ®P&*
183D, He died in the year 1287- Under the altar are some
painted bricks, adorned with several sorts of grotesque figures j
some of the bricks seem to have had letters inscribed upon them ,
but after I had caused them to be carefully cleaned, I could

ii !' "

discern nothing but parallel lines in this manner, || I' |l

II II II

The whole altar seems to have been paved with such sort of
bricks which are now decayed and gone.

Over the altar in this chapel, towards the north and south,
are two large double niches, in which are the ten commandments
in Welsh : on each side are two rows of niches, with three other
niches at each corner. The length of St. Mary's chapel, on the
outside east and west, from the end of the south aisle, is 12
yards, which added to the 75 yards two feet six inches of the

S s

310

knith aisle afore-mentioned, (page 298) including the length of
the old tower, makes the whole length of the church, from end
to end, east and west, to be 87 yards two feet six inches i. e, 263
feet six inches.

The whole building is covered with lead, which is pretty
entire, only by reason of the sinking of the timbers of the roof,
it appears uneven and falling in in several places. There is no
painted glass, nor any escutcheons in the windows that I ob-
served. This church cannot, by any means, be said to have been
well kept : the walk, however, seem to be pretty strong every
where, except in die old tower; and the stone frames of the
windows tolerably entire ; so that it might still be made, without
a very great expence, considering the largeness of the structure,
a very decent cathedral. But the revenue of the church is so
small, that, without foreign assistance, much cannot be done
nnder a very long compass of time. The sen-ice of the choir has
been put down many years, and the revenues thence arising
appropriated to the reparation of the edifice. The persons con-
cerned, (as it is said) have laid out some hundreds of pounds to
preserve the roof from falling in and destroying the whole church,
and for other necessaries.

The chapter consists of 14 members, viz. a bishop, who an-
swers to the dean in other cathedrals, and has a stall in the choir,
and place in chapter in like manner. An archdeacon, who, in
the absence of the bishop, presides, and is, dejure, sub-dean ;
and 1 2 prebendaries. There are also two spiritual vicar-chorals,
of whom one has a pension of 20/. a year, and the other has tl>e
mall tythes of Landaft' and Whitchurdi.

311

The bishop's castle stands (or radier stood, before it was demo-
lished) south-east of the church : it was heretofore a very stately
building, if we may judge by the gate-house, which is still re-
maining. It was destroyed by Owen Vaughan, commonly called
Glendower, (or Glyndwrdwy) who made great devastation in this
country, as well as in North Wales, when he rose in arms against
Henry IV. There is a very high thick stone wall still standing,
which probably enclosed the castle, and the out-houses that
belonged to it. The site of the castle is now turned into a gar-
den, which belongs to Thomas Matthew, Esq. of the court of
Landaff, (a house "so called just adjoining) who is tenant to a
descendant of the house of Aradir, now living in Ireland ; which
family has been in possession of that which was once the episco^
pal house, and the grounds thereunto adjoining, for some ages.

To the north-east of the castle is the prebendary of War-
thacwm's house, which is in sorry repair. Next to that is die
treasurer's house, now ruined. Exactly to the east of the church,
but without the church-yard, was formerly a small college for
the vicars-choral, and the other officers of the church, of which
only shattered ruins are now remaining. Towards die north-east
end of die church-yard (which is not large) is the prebendal house
of William Jones ; of which there are only some walls no\v
standing : next to diat is die prebendal house of St. Andrew,
where are large ruins, besides a small house. To die west of
that is die house of die prebendary of St. Crosse's, which is a
pretty good one. North-west of die church, near die corner of
the church-yard, is a house which is of late re-built, and fitted
up for the reception of die chapter, when diey come to die audit.
In an upper room in diis house, diere is a small library, founded.

312

by bishop Davis since the restoration. He gave to it many of the
fathers, from the second to the eighth century, a very fair St.
Chrysostom, of the Eton edition, with Bellarmin's controversies,
and several of the classicks. There had been a library, before the
civil wars, in the church ; but it was dispersed by the rebels, and
part of it burned, with a great heap of Common-Prayer Books,
at Cardiff, whither the cavaliers of the country, and the wives of
several sequestered clergymen, were invited to the castle, in a
cold winter's day, to warm themselves by the fire, which was
then made of the books that were there burnt.

Towards the north-west of the church, opposite to Jasper's
tower, in a field called Llan-y-wriich, at about forty-six yards
distance, there is a ruined piece of building, under the brow of a
hill, 48 yards in length, and 20 yards broad. It appears to have
been built in the form of a castle, and is said to have belonged
anciently to the archdeacon of Landaff. His dwelling was cer-
tainly once very magnificent, since (we are told that) the arch-
deacon of that church, in Henry II's time, entertained that prince
at dinner at his own house, from whence he went to Cardiff
castle, where he supped and lay that night, in his return to Lon-
don from his wars in Ireland. The archidiaconal castle was
demolished by Owen Glyndwrdwy, at the same time when he
burnt the bishop's castle.

This, Sir, is the best account I could procure of the cathedral
church of Landaff ; in which, if there were not prayers read every
day, and the ecclesiastical courts and offices thereunto belonging,
constantly held in it, and kept in the village just by, there would
be very small signs of its being the mother-church of so wealthy

313

and populous a diocese. Its neighbourhood to Cardiff, which is
a mile off to the east, makes its decayed condition the more re-
markable. The inhabitants of that very elegant town, have,
within these few years, beautified their church, and furnished it
with an organ, at their no small expence. The steeple of that
once conventual church, which is much the finest in South
Wales, casts a shade upon Jasper's tower in the church of Lan-
dafF, whilst the decorations at the top of the one, which are very
fresh and curious, reproach the broken condition of the battle-
ments of the other. It must be owned, that the revenue of this
church is very small ; but in this age, in which building and
repairing of churches is more in fashion than it has been at any
time since the reformation, so near and so laudable an example
will, I hope, incite those who are best able, to raise the mother-
church above its next adjoining daughter. And I cannot but
believe, if those whose immediate concern the world will judge
it to be, would set themselves about it with vigour and appli-
cation, but the gentlemen of these two flourishing counties of
Glamorgan and Monmouth, which constitute the diocese of
Landaff, would, in like manner as their ancestors did on the
erecting the primary structure, willingly contribute to make
its ancient cathedral once more appear with a lustre equal, at
least, to that which it ever had.

I am with due respect,

Honoured Sir,
Your most faithful and
most obedient servant,

IV. WOTTON.

BISHOPS OF LANDAFF.

1. St. Dubritius, Anno 4pO. 26.

2. St. Teleiau, 512. 2/.

3. Odoceus, 54O. 28.

4. Ubylwinus. 29.

5. Aidan. 30.

6. Elgistill. 31.
7- Lunapeius. 32.

8. Comegern. 33.

9. Argwistill. 34.
JO. Gurwan.

11. Gwodloiou. 35.

12. Edilbiu, or Edilbinus.

13. Greciolus. 36.

14. Berthigwin. 3/.

15. Trychan, or Trimanus. 38.

16. Elvogus, died anno 1/63. ,

17. Catwarel, or Catguaret. 39.

18. Cerenhir. 40.

19. Nobis. 41.

20. Gulfridus. 42.

21. Nudd, or Nutli. 43.

22. Cimelian, or Cymclliauth, 44.
872. 45.

23. Libian, or Lybiauth, 927.

2 ! Marchluith, 929. 46.

25. Pater, 943. 47.

Gugan, or Gogwan, 972 .

Bledri, or Blethery, 983.

Joseph, 1O22.

Herewald, 1046.
Urban, 1108.
Hutredus.orUtrryd, }13p.

Geffrey, 1149.

Nicholas apGwrgant, 1 149.

William de Salso Marisco,

1185.
Henry, prior of Aberga-

venny, 1191.

William de Goldclive, 1219-
Elias de Radnor, 123O.
William de Christchurch,

1240.

William de Burgh, 1244.
John de la Ware, 1253.
William de Radnor, 1256.
William de Breuse, 1256.
Philip de Staunton, 1287.
John de Monmouth, 1 296.
Alexander de Monmouth,

1323.

John de Eclescliff, 1323.
John Coventry, 1346.

315

4H. John Pascal!, D.D. 1346 69

4.Q. Roger Cradock, I36l. 70.

50. Thomas Rushooke, 1383. 71.

51. William de Bottesham, 72.

1386. 73.

52. Edward Brumfield, 138Q. 74.
5}. T^deman de Wynche- /5-

combe, 1393. 76.

54. Andrew Barret, 1395. 77.

55. John Burghill, I3p6. 78.

56. Thomas Peverell, 1398. 79.

57. John de la Zouche, 1407. 80.

58. John Fulford, 1423. 81.

59. John Wells, 1425. 82.

60. Nicholas Assheby, 144O. 83.

61. John Hunden, 1458. 84.

62. John Smith, 1476. 85.

63. John Marshal, 1478.

64. John Ingleby, 1496. 86.

65. Miles Salley, 1499. 87.

66. George de Attica, or Athe- 83.
gua, 1516. 89.

67. Robert Holgate, 153/. 90.

68. Anthony Kitchin, alias

Dunstan, 1545. .91.

Hugh Jones, 1567.
William Blethin, 1575.
Gervaise Babington, 1591.
William Morgan, 1595.
Francis Godwin, 1601.
George Charlton, 1617.
Theophilus Field, 1619.
William Murray, 1<)27.
Morgan Owen, 1639-
Hugh Lloyd, i860.
Francis Davis, 1667.
William Lloyd, 1675.
William Beaw, 1679.
John Tyler, 1706.
Rd. Clavering, D.D. 1724.
John Harris, D. D. 1729.
Matthais Mawson, D. D.
1738.

John Gilbert, LL. D. 1740.
Edw. Cresset, A. M. 1748.
Rd. Newcome,D.D. 1755.
John Ewer, D.D. 1761.
Hon. Shute Barrington,
D.D. 1769.
Rd. Watson, D. D. 1782.

REFERENCE TO PLACES.

PAGE )

Abergavenny

211

Aust, or Old Passage

279

Brecknock

1!>5

Caerleon -

.... 47

Caerphilly

120

Caerwent -

••t» 21

Caldecot—

16

Cardiff

1 05

Castle Coch

106

Chepstow

271

Clytha Castle

220

Crick-howell

208

Kymin Summer-house- • • •

242

PAG«

Landaff i 131

Matherne- 8

Merthyr - 187

Monmouth - -23-2

Newport — 93

Piercefield 270

Pont-y-Pridd 174

Ragland 224

Sudbrook 1-2

Taffe's Well • • • 168

Tintern • . . 253

Usk - 76

Wynd-Cliff 207

REFERENCE TO PLATES.

PAGE

Abcrgavenny Castle 214

Antiquities - 55 286

Berw Rhonda 180

Brecknock Castle 195

Caerleon Bridge 4?

Caerphilly Castle 124

Caldecot Castle 17

Cardiff Keep 114

Entrance Tower 115

Castle Coch - 164

Chepstow Chapel and Castle--- • 269

Christ-Church 92

Ditto Tomb-Stone 46

Crickhowell Castle - 209

Inscriptions or Antiquities 55 280

Landaff, South entrance 135

West front- 136

PAGE
• 233

Monmouth Gateway

Castle 236

New Bridge over the Usk 71

Newport Castle

Penhow Castle

Pencoed Castle

Pont-y-pridd

Ragland Castle

Rhonda Bridge

Tessellated Pavement - •

Tintern Abbey

West Window •
East Window •

TreTwr Castle- ••••••

Trinity Chappel —

Usk Bridge

E RE AT A.

PJIGI gg line 10 for Nant-Kentham read Nant-Hentham.

152 — 9 — obility, — ability.

252 — 3 — Landego, — iandogo.

FINIS.

UNIVERSIT^ OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY

^t>ed below.

m